Update - I figured out the ebrake light is on because she is low on brake fluid so that point can be taking out of the mess.

Tim

 

My sisters 99 corolla headlights will not shut off when the car is turned off.

- The parking brake light is always on. I tried grounding this and it still would not turn off.
- The DRL don't turn on (possibly because of the e-brake issue)
- The headlights do not come on automatically
- If you turn the headlights on with the stalk they turn on fine, but turning the stalk off will not turn them off. I just (10 min ago) replaced the stalk so that isn't the issue.

Thank you in advance!

Tim

so then you have to disconnect the battery for the lights to turn off?

 

Correct.

 

possible bad relay for the auto lights causing them to stay on.

 

Where is the relay and how do I test it?

Thanks,
Tim

 

does the car have power locks/keyless entry? on some cars i've seen that the lights stay on after you turn them off until you lock the car w/ the remote. also, i don't think the lights are supposed to come on automatically, only when you use the switch but i could be wrong...

 

does the car have power locks/keyless entry? on some cars i've seen that the lights stay on after you turn them off until you lock the car w/ the remote. also, i don't think the lights are supposed to come on automatically, only when you use the switch but i could be wrong...

The headlights are supposed to come on automatically.. Check your relay... I think its next to the fuse box in the engine bay.. I'm not sure..

 

does the car have power locks/keyless entry? on some cars i've seen that the lights stay on after you turn them off until you lock the car w/ the remote. also, i don't think the lights are supposed to come on automatically, only when you use the switch but i could be wrong...

It does have power locks but not keyless entry so I don't think that is it.

Tim

 

Update -

The DRL are now working (mostly). I guess if you are low on brake fluid, and the brake light is on in the cluster your DRL don't work...which is dumb if you ask me. The DRL don't come on all the time, but if I bang on the relay in the fuse box labeled "head" (or headlights, I can't remember) they will come on. I am going to replace that relay today.

I did more testing and found out that if I turn on ONLY the parking lights (first click on the knob) that they will not shut off either. So there is something that gets switched on with either the parking or headlights that isn't turning off. I need to figure out what that is because it seems to be the source of the problem.

Is there a resistor under the dash for the lights? When I turn them on I can hear something under the dash click, but when I turn them off it doesn't click off (obviously).

Thanks for all the help so far!

Tim

 

There are 2 relays on the BACK of the fuse panel under the dash to the left of the steering column. I know that one is for the rear window defogger because mine failed - it stayed stuck on and nearly melted the fuse panel. I know the other one has something to do with lights but I'd have to check my Haynes when I get home tonight to see specifically what it is for.

It will be very challenging to actually see up into there but if you remove the kick panel under the dash below the steering column you can reach up and feel around for it. You may be able to see part of your hand by looking past the front of the fuse panel accessible by pulling out the little change drawer on the left side of the steering wheel. I recall the two relays being mounted horizontally, side by side. They are both the same part number.

Sorry I don't recall which of the two relays does what but you'll know if you've got the right one because it will likely be burnt brown in the middle from being stuck on and overheating.

The way I found out where they were is that I found a 98 rolla at the auto wreckers with the dash torn apart. The little fuse panel was hanging in the air in plain view. I bought those two relays from the wrecker for $2 (total) and have been living happily ever since! (Shallow life).

 

Thanks for the info! I will have to check that out first.

Tim

There are 2 relays on the BACK of the fuse panel under the dash to the left of the steering column. I know that one is for the rear window defogger because mine failed - it stayed stuck on and nearly melted the fuse panel. I know the other one has something to do with lights but I'd have to check my Haynes when I get home tonight to see specifically what it is for.

It will be very challenging to actually see up into there but if you remove the kick panel under the dash below the steering column you can reach up and feel around for it. You may be able to see part of your hand by looking past the front of the fuse panel accessible by pulling out the little change drawer on the left side of the steering wheel. I recall the two relays being mounted horizontally, side by side. They are both the same part number.

Sorry I don't recall which of the two relays does what but you'll know if you've got the right one because it will likely be burnt brown in the middle from being stuck on and overheating.

The way I found out where they were is that I found a 98 rolla at the auto wreckers with the dash torn apart. The little fuse panel was hanging in the air in plain view. I bought those two relays from the wrecker for $2 (total) and have been living happily ever since! (Shallow life).

 

Sadly I had to tow the car to the dealership The car stopped starting with all sorts of lights on the dash. There doesn't seem to be any clear cut issue so my only thought is to start throwing parts at the problem, which isn't effective and takes time to order them. So I am hoping the dealership can figure this out faster and for a reasonable cost.

Tim

 

faster... yes, reasonable price no. let us know. a friend just had this problem on saturday but we parked it in the garage and when it the temp outside warmed up it was perfectly fine.

 

It turns out there was a major ground in the engine harness that was melted. So they patched that up. The also found out the engine temp sensor was bad and the DRL relay is also bad.

I hope nothing else turns out to be bad.

Tim

 

Thanks for the follow-up. It's good to know we should also look for bad grounds which is pretty simple compared to finding a guilty relay.

 

They just called and there doesn't seem to be any other faulty parts.

- $330 for the wiring harness diagnosis and repair
- $240 for the temp sensor diagnosis and repair
- $210 for the DRL relay (free labor - so they said).

So it was a combination of things that was causing the issues. I'm OK at fixing things but I'm not sure I could have ever figured that all out without a good amount of luck.

Thanks to everyone that helped me out, I really appreciate it.

Tim