Aside from these, are you going to change the brake setup as well? Just curious. I don’t have much input for this. My rolla came without ABS and I’m liking it thus far. The booster idea sounds great, looking forward to that.

 

I've been looking into the wilwood kit 140-9013D set from the scion TC that fits the front, there's also a company in japan Ceika, i think it was, that makes a big brake conversion kit for front and back, but its quite pricey and I have to get at least 17" 35mm offset set of rims first so they'll fit if I go that way.

 

For the master cylinder side, there’s a brake fluid level switch and skid control at the DRL relay box. ABS speed sensors are connected through the skid control ecu and then goes into the combination meter for the abs light. This one is for cruise control.

ABS is also tied into the skid control ecu at the ABS MTR cut relay and ABS MTR relay. Both NO relays. These are tied into the VSC and TPMS systems. Your wheel speed sensors are here as well feeding A20, A19, A3 and A4 relay coils.

These are just on the electrical side.

 

i'm doing a lot of reading of what i can find for service manuals, most only discuss replacing existing parts, not alteration like I have in mind. I'm hoping to remove skid control too, I have a couple wiring diagrams and comparing with same from base models, but i'm lacking information on what I can safely unpin and remove and what effect if any that will have on the ECU.

I'm only beginning to dabble in studying ECU editing and reflashing, I don't have the software yet but looking into it. I'm also going to purchase the bi-directional ebd2 scan tool from Topdon after the holidays, and see what can be manipulated with that.

 

For a track car I'd skip the OEM p-valves and go straight to an adjustable one. I use a Wilwood 260-10922 which has 3/8-24 inverted flare ports so they work with the Toyota lines you just have to put a different nut on them. Makes for a clean install because you don't need any adapters.

You can always start by just disconnecting the ABS hardware electrically to see if that puts anything in limp mode. If not, you know that plumbing around it won't change anything.

Are you planning to change the pedal ratio or just hoping to find a small enough master that the pedal effort is reasonable?

 

Have you driven it with the booster disabled? That might change your mind about that aspect.

 

No I haven't, but I do want a heavy pedal. I'm not sure what the assist ratio of the brake booster is, but a couple aftermarket master cylinders I'm considering range from a 2:1 to 6:1

 

Have you gotten the stainless steel lines yet? When you do that upgrade I feel like the pedal is very direct and you feel when the pads hit the rotors. Especially now I’m on Wilwood BBK, I do feel like I’m standing on the pads themselves. The booster does help push beyond that of traction.

 

Is the goal to cleanup the engine bay? AC compressor is at least 10 pounds. Do the Prius electronic power steering unit. That’ll reduce drag on the accessory belt and can have a shorter one just to drive the crank, idler, water pump and belt tensioner.

HVAC will be a big savings on weight too. Or will have to loop it with the ac delete.

 

A/C is already fully deleted and running a shorter belt. I have been looking into a manual steering rack, again for more feedback feel, I know there's a volvo unit that fits well but haven't found specifically which one.

Cleaning up the engine bay is secondary to performance. I want that go kart feel. But I would like it to look good as well. Eventually I'll buy a welder and work on shaving the engine bay, but that may wait until I buy my next house and have a larger garage work space.

 

Not just the weight of those parts but their drag on the engine in terms of less mass to accelerate and decelerate. An overrunning decoupler style alternator pulley can help too, definitely notice the engine spin down faster with one on my 2ZZ. You can shave like 30lbs off the car running a LiFeP04 battery too.

 

I feel like if it’s weight chasing, wheels is the way to go on the forefront. Like Ace mentioned, a power steering pump swap to electric or electric-hydraulic (which is the route I’m going) is going to free up the motor. Decoupler alternator pulley was nice as well. I already ruined one decoupler pulley but it was good.

 

I'm not super concerned with weight shedding at least yet. I'm a large man 6'3 300lb, the car and I both could do with shedding some weight. That's not the goal but rather will happen naturally as I continue the project

 

My mostly stock Celica feels pretty gokarty with just poly bushings everywhere, stiffer sway bars, coilovers, sticky tires, and upgraded pads on stock brakes. Sure I can over work the stock brakes and get the tires overheated but it takes a sustained effort to do that. Car is a lot of fun if a bit slow. Steering is sharp and precise, handling is predictable, errors are recoverable.

For what it's worth, grab the DD Intake Manifold if you can find one around. It's a massive upgrade even without any tuning work. I have loads more torque than I had before and it's all over the curve not just in lift.

 

I've done a ton of chassis work already, urethane everything, whiteline swaybars front rear top and bottom all over, coilovers, she don't roll at all. Injen cai, ppe header to magnaflow muffler cat/res delete. Rebuilt c60 transmission w shorter ratios, short shifter and brass bushings. Drill/slot rotors, powerstop calipers for now, Yellowstuff pads. ACT clutch/pressure plate, superlite flywheel. Knuckles bearing, hubs basically everything in the wheel wells except PS rack has been replaced and even ps rack have urethane bushings.

The original oil pump died on me, I'm rebuilding the original engine with knife edge lite crank, upgraded pistons/rods, valve kit and stage 2 cams. Getting a used engine from MWR that's been delayed til after holidays. But after original is built its going back into the corolla with the MWR supercharger.

Then the used 2zz is going into My next project car, Adopted a stray Celica 2002 Celica Gt that i found abandoned.

 

I think that works on any rack, what Honda does inside isn't any different but a true manual rack has a more favorable ratio for manual input at the cost of more turns lock to lock. All about gear size and tooth count.

 

To depower a rack you generally have two options:

1. Drain the fluid and loop the lines, which is theoretically reversible.
2. Disassemble the rack, remove the piston (or at least the seal) from the middle of the rack and reassemble. This way you can also put some proper grease in there. Now you don't have the extra drag from the piston and while you are in there you can also weld up the rotary valve to eliminate any slop from that.

The difference between looped lines and piston removed is subtle, but 100% noticeable if you drive similar cars prepared each way back to back.

 

I definitely feel the rotary valve play now that I have poly rack and arm bushings, it's the only play in the steering except for the tire sidewall. That said I'd never give up my power steering.