Your alignment is as good as it gets without shimming the rear hubs. The rear toe is off because our cars use a solid rear beam which is not adjustable for camber or toe. To adjust camber and/or toe for the rear wheels, you'll need to use a shim but it can be quite a bit of work and cost to do so. If you want the alignment to be perfect all around, that's your only option but if you don't have any drivability problems (the steering wheel isn't pulling you to one side for instance), then you'll be fine to keep the alignment as is. Just make sure to regularly rotate your tires as you usually do.

 

Thank you for your reply. I was only worried about the front because they wore down a lot compared to the back the back hasn’t actually worn down at all the tires still look new on the back and I put over 30k on the tires already I mean maybe that’s why the front wore down but I’m just worried because only the outside wore down on the front tires and I saw that is usually an alignment issue

 

Wear on the outside of the tire is definitely an alignment issue. I assume those printouts were from after when the alignment was complete so since the front is now in spec, you shouldn't have any more tire wear issues in the front.

 

Are you familiar with alignments are one of these readings from before and ones after?

 

Now my tires wore out only on the outside edge and I was told that’s an alignment issue.

If someome can help me understand if I even needed an alignment and if the new alignment looks like it should

I would have thought only the front left tire has outside edge wear and not so with front right?

The After alignment numbers should have resolved the observed tire wear rate on the front tire(s) encountered and you're good to go.

Having said that, haven't you observed the steering wheel off-centre phenomenon whislt driving straight ahead on a straight road/hiway, both before and after wheel alignment?