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Any years to avoid if going for a 2GR-FE V6 Toyota Camry? And lots of other questions.... = )

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21K views 6 replies 6 participants last post by  Franklinnjoku  
#1 ·
I’m interested in a V6 Camry – anywhere from 2007 to 2017 range. I watched all the Car Care Nut videos (on youtube) and did days and days of exhausting research, but wanted to get the opinion of owners.

It looks like the 2GR-FE was paired with the same U660E transmission all the way from 2007 to 2017. Any years to avoid if going for a 2GR-FE V6 Camry?
  1. Engine and transmission problems seem rare as far as I can tell, correct?
  2. It looks like the timing chain cover gasket can leak over time, on the 2GR-FE -- and it's a huge expense to fix -- but it's usually not a major leak from what I can tell.
  3. I think the V6 used a piece of plastic in the VVTi supply line until 2010?? But that could be replaced without too much effort.
  4. I’m MOST concerned about VVTi rattle on start up, but I can’t find much information on this regarding the V6 - seems more like a 4cyl issue, but Care Care Nut is a bit ambiguous and says "early models". Regarding the V6, Car Care Nut says this was mostly a problem in Sienna minivans from 2007 to 2010? So maybe it's safe to buy a Camry V6 model year 2011 and newer?
  5. What generation of the Camry has the softest ride – 2007 to 2011? Or 2012 to 2017? I need to rely on other’s experience here, as when I test drive cars they are usually far from my house and on roads I’m not familiar with. I know to avoid the SE or XSE models since those have a more firm ride.
  6. Are squeaks and rattles more prevalent in one generation vs the other?
  7. Which generation is the most quiet on the freeway?
  8. I guess the 2007 to 2011 models can develop a sticky dash in hot climates? I live in Washington, so I don’t think that will be an issue.
  9. Can you get cloth seats with the V6 in 2012 to 2017 models? It looks like the V6 only came in XLE for this generation which always has leather, right?
  10. If there’s not much difference in the engine and transmission reliability I’d probably leans towards an older model to save money. Unless an older Camry’s maintenance and repair costs don’t make sense. Are the 2012 to 2017 versions a lot more reliable or better built than the 2007 to 2011 models?

Thanks!

-Nathan
 
#2 ·
I have a 2013 XLE V6, with 165k. on it, and can only speak of mine.

1. uses only a negligible amount of oil between changes, I change the oil at anywhere from 5k to 7.5k miles. Although most will tell you the V6 does not suffer from the transmission shudder that the 4 cyl. does. I can tell you mine started this at about 135k. When it happens I just push the shifter over to sport mode, to keep the torque converter from even trying to lock.

2. Hasn’t happed on mine yet. 🤞

3. N/A

4. There is a little rattle on start up, but never last more than 1-2 seconds. I’ve had many cars that were much worse so this short duration doesn’t bother me.

5. Can’t help on this, whether the ride is too soft or too harsh is way to subjective. What’s just right for me may be too soft or harsh for you.

6. No help on this one. Mine has a front strut mount rattle, but at 165k probably needs struts anyways.

7. A lot can depend on choice of tires.

8. Can’t help on this.

9. I don’t its real leather 🤐

10. Mine has been reliable as hell.
 
#3 ·
I don't have a v6 Camry, but I used to own a 2010 Highlander with the 2GR-FE. My recollection (probably from CCN videos?) is that the cam phaser defect occurred in the 07-09 engines. My 2010 never rattled at start up, but the phasers were a bit noisy at idle, especially if the engine was hot after towing. One guy on this forum had a 09 Highlander in which one of the cam phasers failed and took out the engine. I've seen a couple of other (rare) mentions of that happening in various places on the web, but far more people saying theirs had the start up rattle but never actually failed (to date, of course).

One issue I did have was a failed VVTi solenoid. It threw a code but didn't have an impact on running/driveability. It was an expensive fix at the dealer because of course it was on bank 1 facing the firewall. Parts would not have been all that expensive if I had done it myself, but I didn't want to deal with all the dissasembly that is required to reach stuff on the rear bank. Apparently this is issue is not uncommon. There is a CCN video about it.

The rubber VVTi oil line on bank 1 was phased out some time during the 2009 model year, at least on the Highlanders. Not sure if it was the same year for Camrys. I wouldn't let that stop me from buying one that is otherwise in good shape. Just replace it with the updated metal line. Highlanders with the tow package also had rubber lines running to the external oil cooler up through the 2010 model year. Not sure if any Camrys had an oil cooler, but if so, the rubber lines can be replaced with an updated metal part.
 
#4 ·
As with any vehicle, even Toyotas, the first few years of a new engine or transmission will usually be the most troublesome. I usually avoid a car in the first few years of a new engine or transmission, just my rule to live by. If it was me I would go with 2010 on up, by that time the 2GR earned its reputation of the most reliable V6 in the business. And although I've owned Hondas with the J series V6 and love it's silky smooth performance I will admit the 2GR is the only V6 that's better than the J series.
 
#7 ·
I currently own a 2005 Toyota avalon with the 2GR-FE engine with 125k miles and I have never experienced rattles on start-up. However, at 120k miles, transmission shudder began and all I did to stop the shuddering was a simple ATF drain and refill and it went away. Engine and transmission is smooth without any leaks.