One possibility is the poor metallurgy / manufacturing process of the rotors (most coming from China). My wife is pretty hard on the brakes and I had the same problem. Finally installing EBC rotors (manufactured in the U.K. or U.S.A.) fixed it.

Attention to detail during the brake job is important - removing the rust from the hubs, making sure the calipers aren't binding, etc. Then there's break-in procedure, but you'll find a number of different opinions on that.

 

One possibility is the poor metallurgy / manufacturing process of the rotors (most coming from China). My wife is pretty hard on the brakes and I had the same problem. Finally installing EBC rotors (manufactured in the U.K. or U.S.A.) fixed it.

Attention to detail during the brake job is important - removing the rust from the hubs, making sure the calipers aren't binding, etc. Then there's break-in procedure, but you'll find a number of different opinions on that.

Thank you. I will have to check out that option.

 

I don’t think your Gen of Avalon is viable for this upgrade, but I did the Highlander rotor/caliper upgrade on my ‘16 Avalon. This is an enormous improvement. The OEM rotors are just not up to the job, and even high quality drilled & slotted rotors were marginal. (It took about 6 months for my wife to warp those).

New 13” rotors did the job! The car will stop so hard I’ve been pushed into the shoulder belt.
If you’ve reached the point of Fix or Sell, investigate this upgrade. I am super happy with the results

Ed

 

Thanks Ed. Where is info available about the Highlander rotor/caliper upgrade available?

 

I also did the HIghlander/Venza setup as simi describes. It did improve the ratio of stopping power to pedal pressure, but that's about all it does. The factory setup can brake perfectly adequately. The bigger set adds a good amount of unsprung mass, which compromises ride, handling, and torque. I recommend smooth rotors and ceramic pads for any street setup.

And actually @simi_ed, if you're experiencing a pull to one side during hard brakes, that's a sign you have a sticking caliper. That's what I was going to bring up to @Tracemark56 as well. If you're experiencing a shudder that won't go away with rotors or pads, maybe it's your caliper sticking. Ensure the cushioned caliper bolt is in the correct place. And as simi said, be absolutely sure there's no rust on the bearing, rotor, and wheel mating surfaces. Apply an oil to prevent rust.

 

No brake pull on my car, just all the braking I can stand. I found the OEM brakes to be unacceptable. Even upgrading to slotted/dimpled/drilled rotors still warped.
So far so good with the Highlander brakes. And no complaints with ride, handling or torque.
I guess I’m just not attentive enough to notice the degraded conditions.
YMMV.
Ed

 

is it possible came from BRAKE FITTING KIT and ANTI-SQUEL SHIM KIT the one who hold the brake pad things the gold color thing in your brake caliper,
if noise still persist, i think you need to buy the chemical(not sure what brand, but its name brake something ,... ) to pour on your brake pads to eliminate the friction to the rotor

 

<Snip>
if noise still persist, i think you need to buy the chemical(not sure what brand, but its name brake something ,... ) to pour on your brake pads to eliminate the friction to the rotor

You are not seriously discussing this, are you? This is never done!

Ed

 

I have two Avalons, 2011 and 2015, and tend to favor OEM parts. I always replace my rotors with every other brake pad replacement. They say though you should avoid getting their value line brake pads that have AZ letters in their SKU code.

 

Tracemark56:
Some questions . . .
-1- Have frequent/premature rotor replacements been required on all 4 wheels, just front or rear, or just one wheel?
-2- Were the pad / rotor replacements performed by an independent shop, a dealer, or by a DIY enthusiast?
-3- Does any driver of your Avalon have a habit of placing their left foot on or just above the brake pedal, even when not braking? (I often do this to reduce emergency reaction time)
-4- What approximate percentage of your driving is "highway" (infrequent stops)?
-5- Is this vehicle typically stored in a humid location?
-6- Is this vehicle typically used daily?
-7- Approximately what percentage of the original pad thickness remains at replacement?
-8- When the rotors were replaced, did anyone complain or comment that a rotor was fused to its hub and difficult to remove?

I personally replaced the brake pads on my Avalon at approximately 30,000, 60,000 and 90,000 miles. I exclusively used Akebono ProACT replacement pads, and re-used the original shims and hardware. The rotors were never replaced or resurfaced (always looked fine to me). Driving was approximately 20% highway and 80% suburban, with the need for hard braking rarely occurring. I never experienced any of the symptoms you described, nor did I notice any significant improvement or degradation of braking characteristics after each pad replacement. Therefore, I think your problems are atypical and likely have an underlying mechanical or procedural cause.

For reference, I documented my first pad change procedures, and re-used them for the 2nd and 3rd replacements as well. They can be found here:

Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

 

View attachment 474522 [/QUOTE]

Those rotors look really rough-cut. I'd imagine the pads would seat very quickly.

 

We've replaced brakes and more importantly rotors multiple times over the last 4 years on our 2011 Avalon Limited because they continue to exhibit "shuddered" braking problems, shaking, and a "phht, phht, phht-like" (like a warped rotor) too often, and too soon after complete rotor replacement...!! This time it showed up within DAYS of complete replacement.

It's completely aggravating, as we've experienced this condition with multiple levels of both rotor quality and brake pad quality and materials!!

Any Suggestions???

Let's start with what did you replace them with? Did you DIY or did someone else do the the replacement?

 

We've replaced brakes and more importantly rotors multiple times over the last 4 years on our 2011 Avalon Limited because they continue to exhibit "shuddered" braking problems, shaking, and a "phht, phht, phht-like" (like a warped rotor) too often, and too soon after complete rotor replacement...!! This time it showed up within DAYS of complete replacement.

It's completely aggravating, as we've experienced this condition with multiple levels of both rotor quality and brake pad quality and materials!!

Any Suggestions???

This generation Avalon has a weak front suspension. Have your front suspension checked out. If parts are worn it will act like the rotors are bad.

 

Ok. That’s far different from my experience. Brakes cause vibration if warped. Hard for suspension to feel like that.
YMMV.


Ed

 

My mechanic verified the runout on the rotors is bad which is why we're getting pulsating while braking. The runout on the hubs measured good. Calipers measured up to 3000 psi and looked to come off with the pedal. There is white on the outside of the caliper usually indicating overheating.

Any thoughts?