Replace the gasket.

 

I wll if it leaks again. So far not a drop and no wetness around mating area. I've pumped the brakes and checked 2-3 tiimes now and even with paper towel around I'm gettiing no indication of leakage now...I dunno I might have done something right..lol. But I will replace the gaskets if it leaks. The ones that came with the caliper are copper colored. The other ones looked steel colored not sure if it matters. Hopefully the extra 3lbs. seated them.

 

Believe you me... when you work on enough cars, these problems happen. It's not "if"...it's "when".

Sounds to me (in my limited knowledge) like you did the right thing. A few extra psi of torque is exactly what I was going to recommend. I cut my teeth working on cars with old timers who cut their teeth working on Model T's and Model A's. They didn't have torque wrenches on the farm. They had "give it", "give it s'more", "give it like you mean it", and "give it till you can't give it no more" for their torque specs. Obviously for your brake lines you don't want to go to "give it till you can't give it no more" right off the bat.

The torque ratings aren't something that guarantees success every time. They're a guide. A very predictable and RELIABLE guide...but a guide nonetheless. Common sense rules apply. One copper crush washer made 20+ years ago in Japan will have a different crush strength than a modern copper crush washer made today in China or Mexico. That's just the way it is. The book can tell you the torque specs all day long...but if you're leaking from a crush washer, it's either only gotten to "give it" or someone has already gone to "give it till you can't give it no more"...when in reality all it really needed was "give it s'more". ;-)

Just my two cents...may only be worth a penny.

Keep wrenchin' my friend!

 

Appreciate it!

I'll bleed them when I can get help. I have a self bleeder but I prefer the 2 person method and then take it out for a test drive.

 

Bonus point <different subject>: I guess the handle spring on the door handles are known to escape their housing due to plastic fatique/cracks. If one secures zip ties around it after reseating, it should keep in place and fully seat the handle so they don't stick out anymore. Yay.

 

I had a similar problem with my '99 Camry after replacing front calipers. It appeared to be "weeping" brake fluid from the banjo bolt. So I tried a little more torque, replaced the crush washers, still weeped and drove me nuts.

Turned out it was fluid trapped in the bleeder screw draining down onto the bolt fooling me. I can't remember if it was fluid trapped in the threads or from inside the bleeder screw itself (I think the latter) but it was definitely residual fluid slowly draining out.

 

I had a similar problem with my '99 Camry after replacing front calipers. It appeared to be "weeping" brake fluid from the banjo bolt. So I tried a little more torque, replaced the crush washers, still weeped and drove me nuts.

Turned out it was fluid trapped in the bleeder screw draining down onto the bolt fooling me. I can't remember if it was fluid trapped in the threads or from inside the bleeder screw itself (I think the latter) but it was definitely residual fluid slowly draining out.

Happened to me this morning. I checked under car and I see clean droplet hanging under the caliper housing below the banjo fitting. Right below the banjo was dry, but under the bleeder it was wet. I eneded up tightening it more than I wanted and it seemed to stop. Just used a small 8mm wrench no long handles or anything. The pedal still feels firm so I hope I shouldn't have to rebleed the brakes.

 

yea sometimes those bleeder valves will wiggle even when tightened.I guess not a bad idea to replace them after awhile. I just finally bled mine, soooo much air but finally got all the air out. Ended up using most of the big bottle of fluid but that includes my misadventure and having the banjo/brake line wrapped in a prophylactic glove rubber banded. Also had saran wrap over the master cylinder w/ cap on. Still had fluid drip out onto the control arm but I think I somewhat minimized it since it was off the caliper for a couple days, the mess could have been larger but not a lot in the drip pan and averted any ecological disasters..lol.

 

Finally took it out for a test drive. No pulls when braking--brakes straight. No hard shift when I was able to reproduce at a certain intersection, now shifts smoothly especially at that turn. The driver side caliper chatter I'd get when going over bumps is now eliminated, thanks to the new OEM Toyota slide pins greased up with CRC Silaramic silicon grease. The new calper also got greased with the same stuff. Cardone [the remanufacture of the pass side caliper] seemed somewhat cheap on the application of their blue caliper grease, so I just cleaned and regreased them how I felt they should be.

The sunrroof binds up for some reason and doesn't seem to close flush, so I'll have to look into that.

Had issues with my right rear taillamp not wanting to flash turn signal. Swapped the left and right assemblies to test and all was good even the right side on left. Put it back and it worked, ¯\(ツ)/¯. So I just hit the connectors with some electronics cleaner and called that done.

The Echo's back!

 

Has-been Toy Master and full time for 2 years record setting SCCA Corolla racer.

Check the fluid level before doing anything, if not replacing pads finish at the same level so it doesn't overflow when you're replacing pads. Use an old Coke or water bottle and a vacuum hose for bleeding. Make a hanger out of wire, or part of a coat hanger. Wrap/tie it around the neck of the bottle, stick the vac hose in to the bottom of the bottle, the other end over the end of the bleeder. Start with the bleeder farthest from the master cyl, then work closer. Hang it high so air can't get back to the bleeder, fill the reservoir, pump 10 times, add fluid, pump 10 more, you've bled it. Close the bleeder, lower the bottle before removing the hose from it. Fill the reservoir if pads are new, fill to the previous level if not. You're done.

If you're really worried about any air left in there, have someone look for bubbles in the bottle while pumping, but I've been doing this for over 40 years without that, and no problems.