IIRC, the GAUGE fuse/circuit is always on. Check it with a multimeter to be sure. A dash cam draws a tiny amount of power, so I wouldn't worry much about overloading the circuit.

 

Thank you BMR for the reply.

So as long as the Gauge circuit is constant it would be a safe circuit to use? I think more than anything I'm concerned about using something that may adversely affect the component that is protected by the fuse. (like ECU)

But like you said this draws so little Volts it probably wouldn't matter if I did. But I wont anyways since there are other options.

 

Yes, it would be safe to use the gauge fuse/circuit. It wouldn’t interfere with anything else on the circuit.

On the Toyota’s that I’m familiar with, the ECU fuse is in the block under the hood, labeled “EFI”.

 

If you look at my pic above I have 3 fuses on the right side of the under the dash fuse box labeled (ECU 1, 2 3) so it looks like mine are under the dash.
At any rate, thank you for helping me feel a little better about hooking this up. Electrical connections make me feel uneasy.

 

Yeah, P/OUTLET NO 1 seems like a good choice.

 

Perfect. Thanks

 

Many and much thanks to the original poster and others...

This is my third install this year. A 15LE, an 18XLE and now an 18LE... No, I'm not a pro, but one each for my kids and have one myself that one can drive when back from college on short breaks from school. Stupidly, I forgot to take pictures of that part of the install and I am physically challenged to get my head under the dash... This thread was a great refresher course.

I'm a real clean freak too, wires need to be channeled correctly and concealed. That's the difference between a consumer electronics electrical engineer and a defense department electrical engineer... It's got to look good! 😁

Because that foot well fuse cover needs to be in place in my book, I'm not using jumpers but dropping an 18-ga wire onto the live side of the fuses and cutting a channel for the wires at the end of the fuse box. I pushed in a little RTV just to cut down on any possible moisture intrusion. Those wires run to a marine-grade water resistant fuse enclosure. I've marked them as "ON" and "ACC." There is a voltage monitor on the power supply switchable down to 12.2, I think. If there should be a malfunction I want my kids to be able to pull the always-on fuse to prevent draining the battery too much.

I'm not a complete endorser of the Viofo products, their always-on power supply systems were very inconsistent and I ended up ordering eight of them to get three of them to work. That is a pretty high 62% failure rate. At first, in May of 2021, I ended up ordering six to find two that worked. In October, I ordered two to start with and one worked. I will be doing an install on a Prius soon as well and I will seek out some other systems to test along with the same A129 Plus Duo that I have installed in the RAV4s. I like a lot of the features and options/control ability that the Viofo has. Their quality control sucks badly and their customer service is almost as bad. I approached them meekly, and they were non-responsive. I came to them with some hard facts and they responded with really stupid questions not pertaining to the actual issue that I contacted them about. It was real passive aggressive stuff, blame shifting.

Thanks again!