You mean the ports or the mating surface?

For the surface you can use a clean razor blade.

The ports you can soak a rag and press the rag onto the port. Then wipe it off. You need to give the cleaner enough time to break up the carbon in the port. Becareful, the port may have sharp edges that can catch on your skin or rag.


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Awesome thank you, I was referring to the mating surface

 

Check your PCV. That can be the issue with the buildup.

Typically, the varnish indicates severe oil change intervals. You could try chemtool b12 to clean up the varnish. Best to do it with head off.

This buildup is not common on port injection. Does the intake have any pooling of oil?

 

Thanks, I’ll give that a shot. no pooling of oil but there was some oil on the gasket And mating surface. Not a lot but a light coating. There is some carbon build up in the ports as well. Car has 179k on it and I am the 3rd owner, for the 10k miles I have had it I’ve done 2 oil changes and am going to change it again this weekend. The car runs pretty good I’ve just been doing easy maintenance stuff to maximize fuel economy (getting between 31-33mpg)

 

Clean the runners”ports” also. You will be pleased with the results. I often clean mine and my 1zz opens up nicer. Easier start ups and quicker acceleration imo.

Edit: Don’t spray carb clean down the runner. Just soak a rag and press. Then wipe.

You can also clean the intake manifold too. And don’t forget the back of the throttle body.


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All very good points

 

take it to a shop with a tank that cleans parts. They have different tanks for different metals. it will sit in the tank for a few days. Any shop that rebuilds engines should have one.

 

I've had good luck with , believe it or not, Acetone! it's super cheap in comparison to any "cleaner" in a can. Also very flammable and often something people have around in abundance without realizing it being useful here. just make sure it's clean and dry afterwards . it shouldn't cause any pitting or anything just from wiping. I've done piston tops like this before and cylinder head sealing surface too and no problems. Razers can leave scratches so be careful. scotch brite and a lot of elbow does the trick every time for me. you can test your valves for any leaking while you're at it. but you'll have to be adventurous and use a wrench to turn the engine slowly over by hand. You'll be able to view each valve open and close on the intake side. in theory you could spray some cleaner into the port while the valve is closed position(sealed) and see how fast any b12 or whatever cleaner seaps out. just be aware it does evaporate eventually so take note of any that seemingly evaporate too fast.

 

inside the runners should only be oil that easily wipes out. its harmless but clean it if you want. soon it will return as the pcv puts oil vapor directly to the intake. the mating surface just spray blakekleen on a rag and wipe it off. dont gouge the mating surface with razor blades or other scraping tools

 

Find some nice thick cloth baby bottle brushes to clean the runners, that's what we used ( in your basic Safety Clean parts washer) . If you have a 5 gal bucket and time, and a 5 gallon gas can, soak it in K1 for a few days. PS running top tier gasoline and low ash synthetic oil ( OK Pennzoil ) cuts down on the gunk. On the other hand it is only really a problem when the MAP or vacuum hose ports gunk up.

 

Your pcv is doing its job as it’s designed. Use Intake cleaner by CRC. Make sure the valves are closed when doing the cleaning. As you don’t want the crud to be in the combustion chamber.

In this case, I’d suggest to install an oil catch can inline from the pcv. This way, the vapors will not go through the intake again. The dried oil will eventually become soot and can cake inside the runners.

 

Well I done mine the easy way or I did take the plastic intake off and clean that but I use ATS .. it's called automotive test solutions and it is a cleaner that you put in the gas tank they also have the same cleaner not the same chemical of course that you put in the oil and run it at a high idle for 10 plus minutes but the other the fuel injector cleaner which cleans anywhere the fuel would be sprayed you put that in when you don't have much left in the tank maybe a quarter

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of a tank pour it in drive somewhat and I filled mine up just a little bit more it's a big step up from techron and techron's decent.

 

For #13 Bernie Thompson has more common sense than anyone and it's in his products.
For #12 If you are going to spray cans of stuff and don't have a compressor and blow gun, to be on the safe side always pull the plugs and crank it over in case it found a way to run into a cylinder (s). Oh, with a towel over the plug wells for when it spits up.