P0340 is a DTC for a Camshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit Malfunction - Bank 1. As far as I know, this vintage of 1MZ-FE engine only has a single camshaft position sensor, and it's OEM part number is 90919-05013, and this camshaft position sensor has a 2-pin electrical connection (please provide a photo of yours with the 3 wires). This could be a faulty sensor, but it could also be a wiring issue or a problem with the timing belt or even crankshaft position sensing circuit.

Don't know how cranking the engine really slow can imply only timing being out of wack. You probably should provide a video with sound so we can understand better what you see.

 

P0340 is a DTC for a Camshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit Malfunction - Bank 1. As far as I know, this vintage of 1MZ-FE engine only has a single camshaft position sensor, and it's OEM part number is 90919-05013, and this camshaft position sensor has a 2-pin electrical connection (please provide a photo of yours with the 3 wires). This could be a faulty sensor, but it could also be a wiring issue or a problem with the timing belt or even crankshaft position sensing circuit.

Don't know how cranking the engine really slow can imply only timing being out of wack. You probably should provide a video with sound so we can understand better what you see.

I will do what you suggested later today and get back,thanks

 

I was wrong, it does have a 2 wire cam sensor. And I think there is only one. Very hard to see anything on the rear side of the engine. Didn't get to test the sensors today, will do tomorrow. Have a friend coming over to crank for me while I back probe the connectors. Will try to get a video of the slow cranking could be as simple as bad ground or bad starter. Did seem to be drawing excessive current when cranking though.

 

Unless I am not seeing this parts diagram correctly, the camshaft position sensor should be on the cylinder head closest to the front, or radiator end of the car. Sometimes these diagrams are confusing though.

 

Well Well this explains everything , rapped around the crank sprocket trashed the bottom cover

 

It was cranking slow because the belt wedged between the sprocket and cover.

 

Lucky you have a non-interference V6 engine. Your car must not have sounded normal when you were cranking it. It problem had a very steady sound, unlike the sound of a normal engine compressing air in the cylinders as it cranks. Looks like you have some work ahead of you. Shouldn't that belt have been under the timing belt cover? How did you find it just laying there?

 

Dug into that yesterday trying to figure out what was going on. Went to check the crank sensor through the wheel well opening and saw some pieces of plastic down in that area. Pulled the belts off then the crank pulley and saw the lower cover all chowdered up, and the belt all bunched up and jammed up.
Pulled the rest of the front cover off and got the rest of the belt off. Ordered a belt kit with water pump and a new lower cover. Hopefully that's all I need to get this thing running.

 

Understood. Are you going to replace the bottom timing belt cover as well? If you are going to use your car for a long time yet, best to keep that timing belt protected.

 

Yes ordered one yesterday. That little piece of plastic was 40.00

 

Curious how many miles? Lots of people change them preventatively but you don't see a 1MZ-FE with a broken one very often. I ran my old Avalon 15 years and nearly 200,000 mi and never changed it despite all the dire warnings.

 

190k from everything I've seen on this car it doesn't look like it was very well maintained. Hopefully when this new belt goes on everything will be ok. I got this car not running, very cheap.

 

Just for reference, a "typical" timing belt replacement job includes a water pump replacement, all idler and tensioner pulleys, all oil seals (camshaft, crankshaft, and if applicable, oil pump shaft), and the tensioner assembly (if spring loaded). If you don't intend to keep very long, you may be OK omitting some or all of these extras.

 

I already ordered all the above and received yesterday,thanks

 

The plot thickens, I installed the new water pump today. It fit fine, Installed the new tensioner, that was ok. Idler pulley ok. Went to put the tensioner pulley on, the left part that sits on the tensioner was way to short. So I put the old one on and tried the belt, it was too short by about a few inches or so. Took the belt over to my local advance auto store. Asked for a belt for a 02 camry v6 ,It was exactly the same as the one I have. So obviously I don't have a 02 engine, how do I find out what I have? Are there some ID #s on the engine somewhere? I'll attach a pic of the tensioner pulley. And a sticker on the upper belt cover.

 

According to Toyota EPC, the correct timing belt tensioner idler sub-assy is P/N 13505-20040 (see parts diagram below). I'm assuming we are talking timing belt here, but there is also a serpentine belt that has a tensioner, and you did not elaborate which on your previous post. According to Toyota Parts Deal, 13505-20040 was superseded to 13505-0A010. 13505-0A010 appears to be available through Toyota dealers, and looks like the image at the bottom - which is the same as your photo (the tensioner at the top of the photo, which looks like the original). I would say your aftermarker parts store sold you the wrong tensioner sub-assembly. They perhaps sold you the wrong timing belt also - maybe more parts if you had a larger order.

 

If you read my post i said I took the belt over to advance auto and they got a timing belt for my 02 camry v6 out and we compared what I had to theirs and they were exactly the same length and tooth count. Apparently toyota v6's have different timing belt lengths for different years. I'm thinking this engine possibly came from a older toyota.

 

I was addressing your tensioner. You new one does not look correct, which you stated. But somewhere, I was apparently wrong, so I’m dropping out of this thread. I’m sure someone else smarter than I will help you, kk7gol.

 

Wasn't trying to be ugly I appreciate the help. After alot of searches I found that in the mid ninety's through the 2000's They did use different length belts so I have to find out what year my engine is.
I'm gonna look for a number on the block to find that out. That should resolve the tensioner issue also.

 

Does the timing belt you bought have a Toyota part number equivalent shown? If not, what is the brand and part number of the timing belt you bought?

 

part # on belt 211my32 it matched up with the 02 camry belt at advance auto.

 

The guy at the counter said belt length 66.46" 211 tooth count

 

Maybe the hydraulic tensioner (13540 in the diagram that @93celicaconv posted) needs to be compressed so you can get the belt on.

I was curious about the fact that your new tensioner looks different than the one you removed and saw AISIN has two different kits for the 1MZ-FE. One with hydraulic tensioner and one without. The 13540 part looks like it comes with a pull pin that maybe holds it in the compressed position during installation. AISIN and all the info I could find lists the same timing belt for all 1MZ-FEs.

So my theory is you've got the right belt, the wrong tensioner, and couldn't get the belt on even with the old tensioner because the hydraulic thing is in the extended position.

 

The tensioner

I got with the kit is identical to the one I took off. It still has the pin installed (not released) even with it being that way belt is still too short.

 

It still has the pin installed (not released) even with it being that way belt is still too short.

Dang it, I thought I was on to something.

 

That pic has the old pulley reinstalled to show shortness of belt

 

😄Wish I was on to something, I'm going to the local toyota dealer today after I try to find some numbers on the engine block.

 

Got a belt from the local toyota parts dept. was still a little hard to get on but it worked. Started the engine and it ran pretty ratty for a few minutes then started to smooth out some. Got a code for the cam sensor, p0340 that would explain the rough running and long crank time I was having, sometimes it doesn't want to start at all. Gotta do some checks to see what's going on with that circuit (sensor).

 

Update, got it started again made it stay running for a while after about 10 to 15 minutes was idling on its own. Put all the covers back on the front of the timing belt , put the alternator, ac , p. steering belts on the next day took for a drive car is running great now. Put about 30 miles on it no problems. Car sat for a long time maybe ecm had to relearn everything.