When were the spark plugs and wires last replaced?

 

Might check to see if the cold start injector system is working. This injects more fuel into the manifold when cold starting.

 

It is running too rich at least at start up. Pull a spark plug and i bet its black and sooty. So you have to ask why is it running too rich at start up?
It is probably not letting enough air in the engine when cold, the proof is that if you floor the pedal it will start. Maybe you need a new idle air control valve or just take it apart and clean it really well. There are several posts here about how to do this and its not too hard.

I looked in the toyota troubleshooting manual of the stickies where they have a really good step by step procedures. They mention another possible culprit here is the coolant temperature sensor. Check for corroded terminal, frayed wiring, or non operating sensor.

 

DFBonnett,toyomoho,marc780 thank you for your replies.

Spark plugs were replaced in October 2007.

marc780,
After (new) mechanic cleaned the 'throttle' that fixed cold start problem for 2 days. Then it reappeared. The problem continued last two days too.
Today morning it was 61 degree F and car started without having to press gas pedal. Not sure about tommorrow ...

This (new) mechanic says like you also suggested that it looks like a problem with Idle Control Valve and would cost ($230 + labor).
After going in circles and spending $$ already, I want to be sure it is indeed a problem with the ICV and not the the coolant temperature sensor,corroded terminal, frayed wiring, or non operating sensor, cold start injector system that you and toyomoho mentioned?
Would a Computer check confirm where the possibilities are. I do not have any check engine sign however.

Should I get the components you'll mentioned checked by mechanic first and ICV just cleaned before going any further?

Cargurus please note I am not an expert when it comes to car mechanics or doing it myself without training.....

 

Would a Computer check confirm where the possibilities are. I do not have any check engine sign however.

Probably not, if the IAC is malfunctioning it may not throw a code at all.

After (new) mechanic cleaned the 'throttle' that fixed cold start problem for 2 days. Then it reappeared. The problem continued last two days too...This (new) mechanic says like you also suggested that it looks like a problem with Idle Control Valve and would cost ($230 + labor).

What you just said is further evidence to me that the problem IS the IAC but you dont have to spend all that money just yet. Here's what you can do about it.

I think the mechanic may have cleaned the THROTTLE BODY area but may have missed the IAC completely. There are good, bad and mediocre mechanics, i have seen them all - maybe he just did a sloppy job of things. And maybe he did not even know where the IAC was or just didnt care. Or maybe your IAC IS actually bad, the mechanic was an ace and cleaned it within an inch of its life but it did no good? So if you want to find out for yourself which it is, it is going to cost you. $3 for a can of throttle body cleaner (or better yet, seafoam for a little more money) is how much. You will need a screwdriver and some rags.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t158097.html

Look at the photo that labels the hole for the iac valve. Its probably better to do this with a warm engine.
1) Drive the car somewhere where nobody including the law is going to see, notice or care about a huge cloud of smoke coming out of your tailpipe for a couple minutes. Or do this at night. I dont know where you live but where i live they are anal about smoke out the tailpipe, and people will drop a dime on you to the local anti smog hotline and you dont want that.
2) Hang on to the spray can straw like grim death so it doesnt go flying into the the plenum, and soak inside this hole like nobodys business.
2) Let it soak in for a few minutes while you wipe off the excess.
3) Repeat step 1 through 3 once or twice more. Use the whole can if you want to.
4) Floor the pedal to start the engine if you must, be advised it is going to be hard to start now. Enjoy huge clouds of smoke out the tailpipe just like the Batmobile or something. Dont worry, it will go away in a few minutes. Run it 2,000 - 3,000 rpm if you have a tach.
5) From your posts i get the impression you dont feel all that comfortable under the hood and thats ok, but it would be better to remove the IAC and clean it thoroughly. It has a coolant hose or two attached so you'd want to remove it cold. A few bolts hold it on. On alot of camrys, you can reuse the old gasket, if you are careful taking it apart.

If you remove it, soak it in the cleaner and scrub it with an old toothbrush. Last time i did it i used my girlfriends and she kicked me out, can you believe that? Anyway if you look at the bottom part you will see two vanes look kind of like razor blades. These vanes rotate open or closed depending on temperature and maybe they are just stuck by the crud. So clean it like new and soak all the holes etc.
Let it dry and blow it out with compressed air if you have it (gas station air even). Reassemble.

http://www.camrymanuals.com/manuals/99/SFI.pdf
jump to page 35 for the IAC information.

If this fixes the problem, great. If you notice a difference like you did the first time, but the problem comes back, buy and change the IAC. But wait! i would pay a visit to my local junkyard and grab an IAC off another camry for about 20 bucks and not 200. And if you do this be sure to grab the old gasket too if its in decent shape, doesnt hurt to have a spare.

 

I had this cold start problem too. It turns out the problem was my COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR UNIT was broken. It is the one with the 2 male plug, not to be confused with the single plug Temperature Gauge Sending unit next to it. I tested the new one, has 4.3 k Olms at 60 degrees and 250 Olms at 180 degrees. My Camry fired right up cold after replacement of the broken CTSU.