That pink crust looks like the radiator is leaking from the seam of the lower plenum. Until you remove the fans you can't tell if the leak is from higher. Keep looking up higher to find it. Looking at the bottom where it drips off doesn't help.

Clean all that mess up with soap and a scrub brush if you want to find the leak, then put in some UV dye.

The clamp looks fine; the hose looks ok except for that gash where someone grabbed it with pliers.

a new radiator from RockAuto is ~$100.

 

That pink crust looks like the radiator is leaking from the seam of the lower plenum.

Just had to replace my radiator at 150k for this exact reason! Leaked at just above the lower radiator hose where plastic and aluminum parts meet. Note that aluminum is crimped to plastic everywhere except for this ~2" strech above the lower hose outlet. The plastic part deformed over time and this created a small gap.

 

^ as said above, make sure the radiator isn't the one that's leaking. Whichever shop that worked on that hose with a worm-gear clamp did a poor job.

Just go into the local dealer if one is still open today and give them the VIN number. That will get you the correct hoses and make sure you get new spring-tension clamps. I personally prefer Gates hoses, but one member's recent experience had some minor deviations from factory like an extra rub guard. O'Reilly and NAPA should carry Gates.

Yes, a new radiator may be needed. Get a new radiator cap (I used Stant/Motorad, but some prefer genuine Toyota/Denso) and thermostat (preferred Aisin or from the local dealer).

 

I didn't notice the crust on the bottom of the radiator plenum although obvious now. Will look at UV dye to confirm, however it certainly does look like a radiator leak. Wow, $600 OEM radiator from dealer, going Rock Auto for sure.

Youtube videos look like a doable DIY for me, will tool up/setup/parts and give it a shot over holidays.

I don't think it is critical time-wise based on the slow leak, however based on your experience, is this a do within a month(s) or so item (giving me more time to do UV analysis) or ASAP because its going to suddenly blow up?

May post additional questions for sure.

Thank you!
maonca

 

Slow leak is not an emergency, so you have time to investigate and get your ducks in a row (parts, tools, procedure, etc). It is a fairly easy diy as the top rail comes unbolted and allows access to everything.

Get some clamp pliers if you go back to the OEM spring clamps as they are a PIA to install without locking open. Replace the thremostat if not done recently, and the radiator cap.

PS make sure you take time to fully bleed all the air out before driving it, as trapped air causes overheating of engine=>blows head gasket.

 

Sounds great. Yes, just ordered Denso radiator from Rock Auto, Eta Jan 3, will get extra coolant, watched YT videos already have the tools from other DIY I think...

I think I'll keep those Gates pipes & screw type hose clamps as it was only installed in April.

Looking forward to DIYing this.

Sincerely,
maonca

 

Yes, must remember to replace thermostat/gasket, the parts have been lying around, was waiting for next coolant replacement. Thanks for the reminder.

Y I bleed per The Car Car Nut a number of times now.

Sincerely,
maonca

 

Hi all,

Completed the job today with some thoughts...
- Thanks to Toyota for 10mm everything, didn't have to keep switching sockets.
- Needed 10mm wrench for two lower A/C cooler bolts, luckily had it since socket didn't fit the space.
- Missing a few plastic fasteners for upper and lower covers, replaced from set.
- Missing passenger lower screw for air redirect fairing, found spare.
- Forgot how long it took to bleed the coolant at ~1/2hr for it to start coming out of the bleeder.
- Difficulty and effort is on par with spark plug change on V6.

Here are some pictures of the leak as diagnosed by you all above & new Denso radiator.

Thank you all!
maonca