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Coolant replacement.

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2K views 6 replies 5 participants last post by  RVTRKN  
#1 ·
Well its been years since I posted here, not that I didn't want to, but we had the dealer do all PM's on our 2018 Highlander with 67K miles. Well because of economics, we can't afford to pay the dealer and buy food, as most of us have experienced in the last couple of years. So I changed out the coolant before the 100K mile interval due to issues with head gasket failures on the Toyota engines that went 100K plus miles on the original coolant. I know its arguable about the early interval, but I believe the source that states its better to change coolant early. The opinion is that the old coolant turns acidic and eats at the coating on the metal head gasket, which can cause a possible head gasket failure and overheating that can warp the block, as well as the heads, and that is not machinable and requires a block replacement.

I spent 4 hrs looking for the petcock valve on the block, to drain the coolant from the block, and had to put everything back together so my wife could get to her appointment. Then another 2 hrs after taking the lower engine guard, I won't call it a skid plate being flimsy plastic, and air filter housing. So I searched youtube and went to the parts house where I bought the coolant, with no luck finding that information. I did find a video on a 2GR-FKS, but in a Lexus where he had pictures of the block petcock valve. Now that I could identify it when I saw it, I looked in the rear of the block (Driver Side) and finally found it. SO if someone does a search here on a highlander coolant replacement they may find this post. This link can help alot, but it is a Lexus.
This is the Video that put me on the right track.

So remove the guard cover (skid plate) under the drivers side to access the rear view of the engine, and you'll see the same petcock valve as the video I linked here. A long wobble 1/4" extension and a 10mm socket works well. Also in the video he uses a special funnel that I bought as well, that worked awesome in helping to get the air out of the system, at $34.00 from Harbor Freight, it made it so easy and kept the spilling at a minimum. Unfortunately I didn't take any photos, but after 6 hrs in two days looking for that petcock valve, I wanted it over with.

I hope this helps someone here that plans on the same DIY coolant change on their Highlander.
 
#3 ·
#4 ·
I just recently went to work at a Ford dealer as a driver part time, or should I say dealer trade driver, and I can use their recycle dump, so rest assured its going to be properly disposed of. But even if I chose a shop with better labor rates, its still cost more than I spent for tools and coolant, and that includes ramps I purchased as well.
 
#5 ·
Price for 3 gallons of coolant was $100 (though likely won't see that much drain), which was the cheapest I could find it anywhere online.

I then spoke to my local dealer, who said they'll hook it up to their coolant-swap machine that pushes the old stuff out under pressure and does a much better job than just draining for $250, total. That sounded a lot better than me getting underneath and doing it all myself so made the appt for next Saturday.

Every once in a while it's worth actually getting things done at the stealership, though I'm still doing the spark plugs myself later this week.
 
#6 ·
Good job doing it yourself! I've worked on quite a number of different vehicles in 20+ years and, by far, Toyota's are best for the DIYers. My co-worker brought his new Ford Maverick over to my house (I have a Quick Jack lift) for his first oil change and that thing has like 15 bolts to remove the plastic cover JUST for an oil change...really, Ford?
I started off doing my own oil changes many years ago, with some drive-on ramps, and, now, I can do just about any maintenance item and glad to help others learn to do it themselves. (Mazdas are also very DIY friendly.)
 
#7 ·
Ya, well I used to have dealers do my oil changes. When my 2020 1500 Ram needed my first oil change (bought it used) I had the dealer do my first oil change and they used cheap oil and a auto parts brand filter. From that point on I chose to do it myself using Valvoline and Mopar filter. They actually listed DuraMax oil and CarQuest filter, for a Mopar shop/product.