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Crank no start

1.6K views 59 replies 6 participants last post by  CarlosVelasquez  
#1 ·
I just bought a 97 Camry LE v6. It cranks but doesn’t start. Timing belt is good, relays are good, (I checked continuity I think that’s what you are supposed to do. Also when I plug in the EFI relay, some clicking noises start by the injector fuel rail and around) Fuses bought brand new, fuel pump works. I believe it to have a short, I am not sure as I am only 17. Can anybody help me. Also the check engine light is on, but the OBDII port doesn’t work. It keeps telling me to make sure the ignition is on. And it only has 4 wires connected to it. Could the neutral safety switch cause this??? I know the motor isn’t getting fuel because I can’t hear the pump priming. I tested the pump using the battery itself. Could the neutral safety switch cause it to NOT send any fuel??? Please help I want to learn and it’s my first car.
 
#2 · (Edited)
The OBD port should have only 4 wires. That is normal. The fact it won’t connect to a reader is a problem. Sometimes this is caused by a bad ECU. Make sure the reader you’re using is compatible with a J1850 VPW Protocol. It’s an older protocol that newer readers may not be compatible with. Also check the EFI fuse in the fuse block under the hood. This powers the ECU and also supplies power to the OBD port.

The neutral safety switch will cause a no crank condition if it’s acting up. Usually they just need to be disassembled and cleaned.

The fuel pump only runs with the key in the START position. Then when it starts, the ECU takes control via the circuit opening relay which is in a fuse block under the hood. They do not prime with the key in the ON position like some cars. To check if the pump is working, try spraying some starting fluid into the intake while cranking. If it starts and runs for a few seconds, you know it’s not getting fuel.

Edited to correct bad info.
 
#3 ·
The OBD port should have only 4 wires. That is normal. The fact it won’t connect to a reader is a problem. Sometimes this is caused by a bad ECU. Make sure the reader you’re using is compatible with a J1850 VPW Protocol. It’s an older protocol that newer readers may not be compatible with. See the pic below for which positions are populated. Also check the EFI fuse in the fuse block under the hood. This powers the ECU and also supplies power to the OBD port, pin #16.

The neutral safety switch will cause a no crank condition if it’s acting up. Usually they just need to be disassembled and cleaned.

The fuel pump only runs with the key in the START position. Then when it starts, the ECU takes control via the circuit opening relay which is in a fuse block under the hood. They do not prime with the key in the ON position like some cars. To check if the pump is working, try spraying some starting fluid into the intake while cranking. If it starts and runs for a few seconds, you know it’s not getting fuel.

View attachment 493439
Ohh ok. Yeah I sprayed starter fluid and it ran for like half a sec.
 
#13 ·
So, I checked the ECM box and it looks good. Fuel pump works, I sprayed starter fluid into the intake and it wants to crank, but it only goes for like half a second. Can’t scan OBDII as it doesn’t connect or transfer to scanner at all, (I saw that the Pin 7 has very low voltage 0.02-0.03.) What else can I check??? I just know that for now, the pump is not receiving any power to send fuel. This leaves me down to either a sensor, (crank, cam,) a wiring problem, or something with the timing. Can anybody help me narrow down which of the three could it be. ???
 
#15 ·
I sprayed starter fluid into the intake and it wants to crank, but it only goes for like half a second.
If “crank” means it runs for a bit, it simply may not be getting fuel. Try spraying starter fluid for longer to see if it runs longer.
 
#20 ·
I can see a bunch of splices and other non-factory looking bodges. Look very carefully at those for problems. Wiring problems can be daunting to fix.

Have you tried starting it with a larger dose of starting fluid?

Have you checked the EFI fuse in the fuse block under the hood?
 
#22 ·
No programming is required. If you get a used one, be sure to match the 10 digit part number on your old one exactly. It’ll be 5 digits, dash, 5 digits. Like 89661-06320, for example. Looking up the possibilities for your Camry, there are 11 different possibilities. I’d look on eBay for a used one, as the odds of you finding the right one at a wrecking yard is slim.

If you pull the ECU, take the cover off and look for capacitors that have failed. Here’s a thread with some details and pics.
 
#25 ·
That’s worrisome. Look around in that area for a same-color wire that’s also disconnected. I think they work by interrupting power to a vital component, like the ECU, injector power, etc. These aftermarket security devices are a big source of problems.
 
#27 ·
That plug dangling looks more like factory wiring, but I’m not sure what it might go to. The connectors going to the instrument cluster have that many wires, but the connectors for that look way different.

It occurred to me that black box left behind with sensitivity adjustment is probably a glass breakage sensor.
 
#30 ·
I was just about to mark up your pic and point that out. Yep, that’s a classic electrolytic capacitor failure. You can probably fix this for about $10 in caps. How’s your soldering skills? Read through that thread I linked earlier and get the details on what you need to do. If anything isn’t clear, just ask here.
 
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#32 ·
This isn’t an easy fix for a first-timer soldering. Do you know anyone who has some experience? Try googling “electronics repair” without the quotes to see if there’s a shop near you. As electronics repair goes, this a simple job that shouldn’t cost more than $50.

Or you could gamble on an eBay ECU and hope you get a good one, they can be very cheap, like $20. Or not.
 
#34 ·
Sounds good. You can source the caps on Mouser or DigiKey. I bought caps on DigiKey to preemptively replace them on my Avalon, and their shipping was very reasonable. I think the total was about $15, including shipping.

I’d recommend replacing all of them at once. The additional cost is negligible.
 
#36 ·
It wouldn’t have to be a place that works on car electronics. Anyplace that routinely does soldering could handle it. Look for game repairers, classic stereo equipment, TV repair, that sort of thing.
 
#39 ·
Yes, just plug and play.
 
#42 ·
If they’re bolt ins, you’ll see 6 socket head cap screws at the stub shafts coming out of the transmission.
 
#54 ·
If the misfire persists and you cannot find another cause (another vacuum hose leak, etc.) - suggest "swapping" spark plugs in #1 cylinder and #2 (misfire) cylinder, and see if the misfire "follows" the swapped plug.

During the swap, you are going to want to look at: condition of plug, condition / width / gap of electrode to tip, vs. other non-misfiring plug (making sure spark plug gap looks correct), condition of porcelain insulator (no burned in carbon marks/tracking present) and condition of spark plug wire: boot & wire is intact/pliable, no evidence of carbon tracking or "snail tracks" inside boot / where it sits on porcelain insulator, wire condition / outer sheath is good, not oil soaked or dry-cracking, etc.

^^ There are bunches of "tune up" videos on YouTube that can help teach / explain above.

Some of my favorite folks to watch and learn from:
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If the spark plugs are older than 50,000 miles, or the plug wires are old, then an ignition "tune-up" may be due, using Denso or NGK plugs and wires.