I installed a new CPS and it shows the correct 1.3K resistance and 450ma AC (on multimeter) when cranked. Still no start (no fuel, no spark).

The diagnostic machine shows 0 RPM when cranking. Not sure if the ECU shows correct RPM when cranking. Anyone know for sure? That piece of information alone would be really helpful.

Possibilities:
* ECU fried by the damaged sensor?
* Toothed wheel damaged by sensor?
* Something else?

Any help greatly appreciated.

If you install the old sensor and the vehicle starts, that would indicate wiring and ECM are recognizing the (old) sensor,

The pad on the old sensor was grooved pretty bad, if it was my ride, I would be inspecting the ring gear on the vehicle for contamination and/or damage, and I would pull the starter so I could get a clearer view and/or clean the ring gear properly w/ isopropyl alcohol and/or non-chlorinated brake cleaner, to remove any contaminants deposited from the old sensor,

re: does ECM report back cranking RPM, I dunno. Diagnosis for Crank Sensor on most vehicles involves hooking up an Oscilloscope in-line between the sensor and ECM / checking waveform sent from the Crank Sensor / Ring Gear.

** Would also consider a possible (new) defective replacement sensor, if the old sensor works..

*Disclaimer: not a certified tech / just a "shade-tree auto enthusiast" hibernating for the winter.. Too cold to be turning wrenches outside here now.

 

Thanks for the reply.

Sadly, it doesn't work with either the new or the old sensor. They both produce an AC signal, with the new one producing a higher voltage.

The ring on the Camry is on the crankshaft, just behind the vibration dampener. It is very difficult to get to the sensor. The ring can't be seen directly. I can just barely feel it by pulling the sensor and feeling in the hole with a pinkie. Not very diagnostic.

The sensor itself is magnetic, and what I am starting to think is that the bits and pieced shaved off of the sensor may have stuck (magnetically) into the gaps of the ring. I can't see them, so it is hard to verify that. Maybe I can use something sticky to try and clean up a section of the ring and see if the signal gets better.

 

Sorry about that - I see the crank sensor and interrupter ring is on the front of the 2.2L motor now, if the Internet isn't lying the interrupter ring is part of the crank gear.

--
From past experience w/ other vehicles & crank sensors, dirt and grime alone can cause bad signaling and prevent start - (the detection threshold of the sensor measured in millivolts), so if you suspect the ring gear is contaminated w/ metal,

you may have to pull the crank gear to fully clean the ring of all metal contaminants, hopefully a more experienced member reading here can confirm the crank sensor ring is part of the crank gear.

 

Some experienced help would be appreciated.

Camry 2001 w/ I4 engine.

I'm trying to diagnose a friends engine problem. The ECU was announcing an error code of P0335, which translates to the Crankshaft Position Sensor *****or the wiring*****. On inspection the 10mm bolt holding the sensor was found to be loose. After tightening and clearing the code, no improvement.

The sensor tested to 2K ohms, where a new sensor showed 1.3K. So, after much fiddling I got out the old sensor. On looking at the sensor, it was clear that the toothed wheel had been grinding away at the sensor for a while, which probably explains why it went bad.

Photo here: https://onedrive.live.com/redir?res...edir?resid=2DB423FFB1F8BE5D!42315&authkey=!AN6bfYHK2JZJICE&v=3&ithint=photo,jpg (can't seem to link the photo in directly).

I installed a new CPS and it shows the correct 1.3K resistance and 450ma AC (on multimeter) when cranked. Still no start (no fuel, no spark).

The diagnostic machine shows 0 RPM when cranking. Not sure if the ECU shows correct RPM when cranking. Anyone know for sure? That piece of information alone would be really helpful.

Possibilities:
* ECU fried by the damaged sensor?
* Toothed wheel damaged by sensor?
* Something else?

Any help greatly appreciated.

A code doesn't always mean the sensor. The wiring could be damaged also.

I believe you should see RPM during engine crank.

Could also be low cranking speed. http://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/p0335-p0340-toyota/

 

Thanks all.
Looks like I need to try cleaning the ring, not that I really know it is dirty. First try will be with a finger with something tacky like rubber cement on it. If that comes back with metal flakes, I'll proceed further.
I'd like to dole out a dope slap to the guy who left the bolt loose.

 

I wouldn't be happy about that either.

Some double-sided carpet tape on the end of a pencil may work also.

If you find a lot of metal contaminants, if it was my ride, I would pull the crank gear to visually inspect for wear - the tolerances between the gear ends and sensor are very small, so if the gear ring ends are worn, that may also be affecting signal -> start.

Hoping the repair goes quick and easy for you.

 

So, after some more fiddling around with the sensor, I find that there is a considerable gap between the face of the sensor and the toothed ring. I can move the sensor in by >3mm. This implies that the ring has been worn back by rubbing on the old sensor.
And ... adjusting it to be close to the ring gives an RPM signal and the engine starts! Once running it runs well. The weird thing is that if I stop the engine, it won't start up right away. After a rest (and some poking around) it does start right up. I think the poking around is a red herring and what is really happening is that the battery is getting a rest. It seems to crank at a reasonable rate, but maybe the sensor/ring combination is marginal and the engine has to be cranking with gusto to get the signal up to a level that the ECU likes. Charging the battery now to test that theory out.

Anyway, thanks to all for help and suggestions. :smile:

Also, in the interest of helping the next person:

1. A dead crank position sensor will not show codes unless it happens to fail when the engine is running. If it fails while running the ECU will show P0335, and possibly other codes.
2. The live data view in the diagnostic tool will indeed show cranking RPM. This is a very handy diagnostic. If you don't see cranking RPM in the diagnostic, forget anything else as a cause and focus on the crank position sensor.

 

So, after some more fiddling around with the sensor, I find that there is a considerable gap between the face of the sensor and the toothed ring. I can move the sensor in by >3mm. This implies that the ring has been worn back by rubbing on the old sensor.
And ... adjusting it to be close to the ring gives an RPM signal and the engine starts! Once running it runs well. The weird thing is that if I stop the engine, it won't start up right away. After a rest (and some poking around) it does start right up. I think the poking around is a red herring and what is really happening is that the battery is getting a rest. It seems to crank at a reasonable rate, but maybe the sensor/ring combination is marginal and the engine has to be cranking with gusto to get the signal up to a level that the ECU likes. Charging the battery now to test that theory out.

Anyway, thanks to all for help and suggestions. 😄

Also, in the interest of helping the next person:

1. A dead crank position sensor will not show codes unless it happens to fail when the engine is running. If it fails while running the ECU will show P0335, and possibly other codes.
2. The live data view in the diagnostic tool will indeed show cranking RPM. This is a very handy diagnostic. If you don't see cranking RPM in the diagnostic, forget anything else as a cause and focus on the crank position sensor.

How did you solved your problem im having the same problem with my car

 

I replaced a crank sensor on my 96 camry. 2.2L but still having same problems. I fought the sensor in behind the crank pulley. It did run for a short period but died. Any ideas?

 

Unfortunately, you may need to pull the timing belt cover and see the corresponding ring to ensure it's free of debris.
Sorry, this is the best photo I have of the sensor. I assume your sensor is sitting this close to the perimeter notched ring?

 

^+1. Also, make sure none of the the teeth are missing on the backside of the pulley that the belt rides on.

 

I've got one or two of those pulleys. With good teeth.

 

What was the solution I’m having same problem please help?

 

Did you read post #8 appears crank gear and weak battery.