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CVT drain/fill using vacuum pump

19K views 67 replies 10 participants last post by  raymond10078  
#1 ·
Hello everyone...been on the Highlander forum since 2009 (2009 V6 AWD HL ) but recently added a certified 2015 Corolla LE to the family.
I was just wondering if anyone had tried a CVT drain and fill from the top by simply removing the fill plug and use a vacuum pump to remove fluid . Than fill with new fluid ,adding the exact quantity that was removed ( assuming the factory fill was accurate !).
 
#4 · (Edited)
Short version: don't do it blindly with a vacuum pump

Long version: use a vacuum pump to extract the old fluid and then open up the drain bolt. Add new fluid until it starts coming down the straw. Close the drain, add 400mL fluid, then plug up the transmission. Shift through all gears 6 times while warming up the transmission to 35-45C. Open the drain. The straw sets the fluid level. Close the drain. Done. Considering all this, I would just drain the transmission the normal way by removing the straw, then dropping the pan.
 
#5 ·
Short version: don't do it blindly with a vacuum pump

Long version: use a vacuum pump to extract the old fluid and then open up the drain bolt. Add new fluid until it starts coming down the straw. Close the drain, add 400mL fluid, then plug up the transmission. Shift through all gears 6 times while warming up the transmission to 35-45C. Open the drain. The straw sets the fluid level. Close the drain. Done. Considering all this, I would just drain the transmission the normal way by removing the straw.
DO NOT do this!!
The correct straw is adjustable to compensate for exact temp.
 
#6 ·
I have seen one video where you remove the drain plug and then remove the STRAW by simply unscrewing it...than re-install the straw by screwing it back in. So I guess if you drain from the bottom and then just re-install the straw and fill until the CVT oil comes out (at around 40 C)...you should be at the proper level ?
 
#7 · (Edited)
Once everything is drained meaning the straw was removed, you need to put the straw back in, add fluid until it starts dripping out a little, THEN CLOSE THE DRAIN, overfill by another 400mL, then row through the gears several times. Finally you open the drain plug one last time to get rid of the little extra fluid and thus set the level perfectly before the job is totally finished. You need to make sure the fluid is at 40C +/- 5C (this is very important) at the last step. You can hit the pan with an IR thermometer to measure the fluid temperature.
 
#10 ·
Even if you just drop the pan
You will need the vacuum pump to check fluid level will you fill it up

make a estimation of fluid coming out is not reliable
Because if you lost some fluid with time, put back the same quantity will not be OK
Same thing if level fluid is high, you will put back mutch

drain all the oil and full as in manual spec if not good
because you will never drain all the oil
So if you could not drain aall fluid adding as spec will be to mutch

Finally, you should let Toyota technician take care of CVT trany fluid change
Because, it will probably cost less than buying specialised equipments if your not planning to do over 100 oil change!!!
 
#16 ·
You should really go to Toyota as they got the essential equipment to do the job
As it is complicate to check CVT oil level

There is no way to check CVT with out proper equipment!!!!

You can't add recommended quantity, because it impossible to completely empty trany

Add the exact quantity that been remove is not reliable, because you don't know if the oil level was OK
It could be missing or have too mutch oil

Finally the only way to check oil level on a CVT is with the Toyota porper equipement
 
#46 · (Edited)
Not so hard

So much confusion over how hard this is and tools required..
It's not so difficult, and it definitely doesn't require that dealer does it if you have a little experience with oil changing!.. Oil doesn't last forever, it breaks down with age, heat, etc.. it's good to know how to do this yourself.

Forget the pump and everything else complicated, that's for dealers in a hurry. All you need to do is let the car cool down completely, and use a Infrared temp gauge ($20 on Amazon).

The hardest part I'd say is reaching the fill plug and putting the oil in.. not the level check. I've done it on VW golf a few times with a IR temp gauge and it's veryyy easy,.. just point it at the pan with engine running, wait until 33C, open the bolt, keep checking with IR gauge until at 35C, close the bolt.. Done!..
Just measure it somewhat when it comes out, and put something very similar with only a tiny bit more.. no big deal! If you're paranoid, just measure what came out exactly.. and forget about temp checks.. use a bottle or electronic scale. Plus or minus 100grams isn't going to matter.

The VW also would hold in about half the oil and let out only about 2 liters.. so two changes would be needed to get a really clean oil.

The steps involved are
1) Lift car, Drain the fluid through drain plug , take the "tube" out also, which is underneath the drain plug, otherwise all oil won't come out.
2) Open fill plug and re-fill with same or similar amount
3) Lower car to leveled surface
4) Turn car on, run though gears, D, R, N etc. while stopped, don't move yet.
5) Check with IR the temp of the pan until close to 35C
6) Open overfill bolt, some oil should come out, when it starts dripping just a little at 35C, close the drain bolt. I like to use 35C because the oil is probably hotter than the pan, so 35C pan may mean 40C oil.
If no oil came out at 35C, you didn't put enough, so add more.. and wait for it to cool down and start again the procedure.

If that's too difficult, go to the dealer :smile: Only reason I haven't done it is because the fill bolt is a pain to reach.. I'll have to figure some way to feed the new oil in with a small tube. Also, I have done the level check and it was fine, using the method above. A little oil was dripping, but not a lot at 35C. Dripping is ok, but full stream of oil means too much.
 
#50 ·
Do you think it would be possible to get a hose to the plug and drop the fluid in without a pump?
I was thinking to push a thin funnel into a hose, stick in the fill hole, and the fluid will drop down.. I see you got the pump and temp sensor.. I'm guessing you took off the wheel well plastic cover, .. once you do that, is the fill bolt easily visible?
 
#64 · (Edited)
Here's a video I made while changing my 2014 Toyota Corolla CVT Transmission fluid:

I think I covered all the points.. at lest it gives an idea what is involved in terms of draining, filling, and adjusting.

I haven't had any strange feeling from the transmission ever since I changed it, even when it got to -8C. Completely nice and smooth.. I'll see when it's -20C, but I think there is definitely an improvement. I was actually surprised I felt any difference, because the old oil wasn't terribly bad looking, although it looks nothing like the new fluid.
 
#65 ·
Great video!

The only comment is that the factory manual directs three drains and fills.

The factory manual does not require the fluid level check for the first and second refill - only for the last.

The reason is that the CVT holds more fluid than is drained. The first time the CVT is drained and refilled, about 40% of the old fluid remains. After three drains and refills, the old fluid percentage is down to about 14%.

Again, great video!
 
#66 ·
Great video!



The only comment is that the factory manual directs three drains and fills.



The factory manual does not require the fluid level check for the first and second refill - only for the last.



The reason is that the CVT holds more fluid than is drained. The first time the CVT is drained and refilled, about 40% of the old fluid remains. After three drains and refills, the old fluid percentage is down to about 14%.



Again, great video!


If you change it religiously, let’s say every 30k miles, pretty sure it’ll be ok to do drain n refill once


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