Yes, you can definitely have the valves adjusted. EDIT: According to how I read the manual, the adjustment is made by measuring the lifters and replacing the out of spec lifters with one of various sizes to bring the clearance back into spec. See post #8. Chilton manual says 2.8 OEM/Dealer warranty hours or 4.0 regular hours to do the adjustment. Just to inspect and measure the valve clearances shoud be much less than that.

Here are the specs to inspect the valve clearances (it's for a 2004, but I assume it's the same as 2007).You first have to set the engine to TDC/Compression:

 

Yes, you can definitely have the valves adjusted. Chilton manual says 2.8 OEM/Dealer hours or 4.0 regular hours to do the adjustment. Just to inspect and measure the valve clearances shoud be much less than that.

Here are the specs to inspect the valve clearances.You first have to set the engine to TDC/Compression:
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I am not highly technical, so it is hard for me to make sense out of the conflicting information. A shop that I was planning on using to replace my transmission said
"I would have to look into it. That’s not a typical repair nowadays.
Most vehicles are non adjustable." A good friend who is very knowledgeable said they can be and that it is not a hard job. For him maybe.. lol.. Others have given mixed answers leaving me very confused.

#2 says to record the out of spec clearance.... They will be used to determine the required replacement lifter I thought we were talking about just adjustments. .

The noise sounds like lifters/valves and I've always thought noisy lifters required adjusting, and that it was just a thing that is a normal consequence of every day driving. If left too long, serious damage could be done. Also, there could be other causes which should be addressed, I'm thinking sludge?

Anyhow hope this doesn't involve parts replacement and maybe just some sludge removal will do the trick. I'm retired and on a fixed income. I've taken pretty good care of the car outside of the recommended OCI (timewise).

Thanks for helping me make sense out of this!

 

Why would your valves need to be adjusted with only 48k on your corolla. Thanks b

 

That's what I'm wondering! Did you hear the engine running in the link I left? It sounds like they're noisy to me.. But I'm just a novice, which is why I'm posting.

Thanks

 

I also wanted to mention that I have 380K miles on my 2004 Corolla and I have never had the valves adjusted (or even inspected/measured for that matter) and I have no plans to do so. That being said, it certainly wouldn't hurt anything to at least have your clearances inspected to see if they are within specs.

.....and I doubt you have any sludge problem, but you will see if there is sludge if you remove the valve cover to do the inspection of the valve clearances.

 

That's encouraging, but do they sound like mine?

 

It sounds like the tensioner pulley has run dry. The tapping sound is similar to mine.

When you do another video, focus the microphone on the tensioner. Also, try to capture the rotation of the smaller pulley of the tensioner. Verify it isn't wobbling.

A method you can use is to push down on the serpentine belt. If there's any movement in the belt, then the tensioner is failing.

 

I 'll get this on my xacti which I forgot I had. Should be better than my phone - easier to get close up for sure and probably better sound.

So you think the tapping is normal? I honestly never really noticed it or paid attention to it before and don't think I ever recorded it before. That should be a standard practice when you get a new vehicle!!

I'll check the tension as you suggest. If it matters the serpentine belt was replaced before its time, about 5-6 years ago.

Thanks Aces!!!

 

The external microphone will be able to pickup other background noises during recording. Just pay close attention to the belt's rotation on the small pulley and see if you notice movement in the belt or if the pulley itself has a wobble during rotation.

To me, the noise from the cam shafts tapping sounds normal to me. Due to the noise being amplified by the valve cover. As long as your not losing oil, you should be fine.

We could speculate all day long, but can't be certain that's the source of the noise under the valve cover.

 

The external microphone will be able to pickup other background noises during recording. Just pay close attention to the belt's rotation on the small pulley and see if you notice movement in the belt or if the pulley itself has a wobble during rotation.

To me, the noise from the cam shafts tapping sounds normal to me. Due to the noise being amplified by the valve cover. As long as your not losing oil, you should be fine.

We could speculate all day long, but can't be certain that's the source of the noise under the valve cover.

Never lost a drop of oil as far as I can tell, so that's a good sign. I did look at the belts before and they all seemed OK, but I will check the tension as John suggested as well. I'm going to take another (shorter) video with a closeup/zoom with a better camera.

thanks again!

 

Well, my new videos didn't come out as well as I'd hoped - I haven't used it in a while and apparently couldn't get the auto focus to work but hopefully it suffices just the same. I paid close attention to the belts and they seemed to be aligned well, but I still have to physically check the tension and sway. It sounded quieter to me today, from inside the car it seemed almost like a new car. Strange thing about hearing...

Hopefully these will give you better clues..

Thanks gain for your valuable help!

 

Sounds like a dry pulley. Monkey wrench racing sells the pulley and tool. Before tax, its under $30.

QRP Accessory Belt Tensioner Pulley Only - 2ZZ, 1ZZ All

Brand new QRP accessory belt tensioner pulley only. Fits all 1ZZ-FE and 2ZZ-GE engines in Toyota and Lotus cars. Noisy squeaky sound in the belt are? It's often this pulley. 2005+ Lotus Elise, Exige, 2-eleven all with 2ZZ-GE or 1ZZ-FE engine 2000-05 Celica all 2000-08 Corolla, Matrix, Vibe All

www.monkeywrenchracing.com

QRP Tensioner Pulley Bolt Socket - Toyota 1ZZ 2ZZ All

Special socket to fit the bolt that secures the pulley to the belt tensioner on most 1ZZ and all 2ZZ engines. If your pulley has an exposed bolt this is the right tool. If your 1ZZ pulley has a black plastic cap covering its bolt head then it is more likely a standard Torx bolt. This tool is need

www.monkeywrenchracing.com

 

The metallic scratching sound in the 1st Video in the post immediately above "Corolla Engine Cont'd" sounds like Serpentine Belt Idler Pulley <$20 part plus Labour.

If you have a mechanics stethoscope
( something like https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lisle-Mech...Mechanics-Stethoscope-52500/153633801946?hash=item23c549c6da:g:-2MAAOSwZ~xdcopn ),
place the mechanics stethoscope probe on the Idler Pulley Spindle Bolt Head & you should hear it scratching away, you can also listen to the Alternator just to confirm that is not your problem, and each fuel injector, its amazing how much easier it is to pin point the source of the noise in the engine bay without the reflected noises corrupting your perception.

If it is the Serpentine Belt Idler Pulley when you remove it the inner bearing race will most likely have extra movement/play & when you spin it on your finger you will hear the metallic crunching

(It might also be the Alternator brushes/bearings but with the mechanics stethoscope probe you can easily eliminate that as the source of the metallic crunching noise)

Rob

 

The metallic scratching sound in the 1st Video in the post immediately above "Corolla Engine Cont'd" sounds like Serpentine Belt Idler Pulley <$20 part plus Labour.

If you have a mechanics stethoscope
( something like https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lisle-Mech...Mechanics-Stethoscope-52500/153633801946?hash=item23c549c6da:g:-2MAAOSwZ~xdcopn ),
place the mechanics stethoscope probe on the Idler Pulley Spindle Bolt Head & you should hear it scratching away, you can also listen to the Alternator just to confirm that is not your problem, and each fuel injector, its amazing how much easier it is to pin point the source of the noise in the engine bay without the reflected noises corrupting your perception.

If it is the Serpentine Belt Idler Pulley when you remove it the inner bearing race will most likely have extra movement/play & when you spin it on your finger you will hear the metallic crunching

(It might also be the Alternator brushes/bearings but with the mechanics stethoscope probe you can easily eliminate that as the source of the metallic crunching noise)

Rob

Thanks for the suggestions Rob. I actually have a stehoscope but never ended up using it since it was a piece of junk, but I'm going to give it another shot and maybe even get a decent one. I guess I had just forgotten about it.

I will let you know how it goes. My big concern is the access seems difficult to some of that stuff so it may have to go to a shop.

Thanks again!

 

Did the 2007 Corolla already come with the new dipstick that measures 4.2L instead of 3.7L? I'm asking because OP stated the last shop over filled with engine oil.

 

AFAIK 2006 - 2008 came with the updated dipsticks. Apparently there are some of the 2005 that had the updated dipstick as well (although every 2005 I've seen did not have it).