DIY - ZRE152 2ZR-FE 1.8lt Timing Chain Tensioner Replacement
The below provided to assist DIY.
Neither myself nor Toyota Nation are responsible for your skills workmanship or errors.
Tools:
10mm Offset Ring Spanner
10mm 1/4” Drive Socket Rachet
1/4” Torque Wrench
Flat blade screw driver to depress dog pawl
Shop rag
Parts:
Timing Chain Tensioner ZRE152 - Part No:1354037030
Timing Chain Tensioner Gasket ZRE152 - Part No: 1355237010
########
I took the top of motor plastic cover off & considered removal from the top but you need to reach around the rear RHS of the Motor & there is a Bracket that a wiring harness clip attaches to attached under the Bottom Timing Chain Tensioner Nut.
So I decided to do the removal & replacement of the Timing Chain Tensioner from underneath.
#########
[1] On bench, check the new Timing Chain Tensioner extends & the pawl locks
[2] On bench, compress the new Timing Chain Tensioner to Zero & close the Lock Hook Clip
[3] Loosen off the RHS Wheel Lug Nuts (makes taking the wheel off easier later when you need to rotate crank counter clockwise to release the Lock Hook Clip)
[4] Mechanics jack the front of the car. Lower & rest both front wheels of the car on 150x150 timber blocks. Leave the mechanics jack in place
[5] Sheet of cardboard/Masonite or use an under car crawler & slide under.
Removal of the Timing Chain Tensioner from underneath is easy, Right hand access up through though the drive shaft aperture, Left hand access up from behind the driveshaft
![Image]()
[6] Unclip wiring harness clip from the bracket on the bottom stud of the Timing Chain Tensioner & move the harness out of the way
![Image]()
[7] Using 10mm Offset Ring Spanner undo the bottom M10 Nut & take off the nut & wiring harness bracket
[8] Place a rag below the timing chain tensioner as a little oil will come out when the Timing Chain Tensioner comes out
[9] Using10mm Offset Ring Spanner undo top M10 Nut, the spring loaded Timing Chain Tensioner will push out
[10] Clean the gasket mating surface
![Image]()
[11] Insert the New Timing Chain Tensioner with: a) Lock Hook Clip to the top, b) gasket tab to RHS, c) Gasket raised lip facing the timing chain case. Gasket is a crush Gasket, not an O-Ring.
[12] Found it useful to use just the two nuts first (ie don’t initially install the wiring harness bracket, do that after the Timing Chain Tensioner is seated before torquing the nuts)
[13] Use M10 1/4 “ ratchet on each nut “a turn per nut” to “seat the New Timing Chain Tensioner” squarely onto the gasket
[14] Undo the bottom nut & re-install the “wiring harness bracket”
[15] Seat the bottom nut
[16] Torque the Timing Chain Tensioner Nuts 9Nm
![Image]()
[17] Re-attach the wiring harness clip to the bracket
![Image]()
[18] Jack the front of vehicle, remove the front RHS wheel (why you loosened the RHS Front wheel lug nuts). Place a car jackstand under the RHS SubRail. Slide the wheel/tyre under the RHS behind the jackstand for safety
[19] Remove one (1) under guard Trim Clip front midway. Allows the under Guard Trim to be moved out enabling the Crank Trim Cover Trim Clips to be removed
[20] Remove four (4) of the Crank Cover Trim Clips & rotate the crank trim cover out of the way
[21] 19mm socket on the Crank, Rotate Anti-Clockwise listen for the CLICK as the Timing Chain Tensioner Lock Hook Clip releases, should be less than 1/4 of a revolution to the CLICK, go another 1&3/4 of a turn
![Image]()
[22] Rotate Clockwise & listen it should be silent, Turn the Motor over a Few times.
[23] Replace the Crank Trim Cover & four (4) clips.
[24] Replace the one (1) under guard Trim Clip front midway
[25] Put front RHS wheel back on
[26] Remove jack stand, Remove the 150 x 150 Timber Blocks, Remove the mechanics Jack
[27] Torque the RHS Front Wheel Lug Nuts
[28] Jog the Motor twice
[29] Start the motor normally listen for abnormal noises…there should not be any….go drive the car
When prepared, the above takes less than 20 minutes
##########
Noted
Original Tensioner Stamped E2, 16 teeth on extended tensioner piston past the pawl, Ext 32.08mm, Dia 14.37
New Tensioner Stamped G3, 16 teeth on extended tensioner piston past the pawl, Ext 32.3mm, Dia 14.35
![Image]()
Hope the above helps someone else.
Rob
The below provided to assist DIY.
Neither myself nor Toyota Nation are responsible for your skills workmanship or errors.
Tools:
10mm Offset Ring Spanner
10mm 1/4” Drive Socket Rachet
1/4” Torque Wrench
Flat blade screw driver to depress dog pawl
Shop rag
Parts:
Timing Chain Tensioner ZRE152 - Part No:1354037030
Timing Chain Tensioner Gasket ZRE152 - Part No: 1355237010
########
I took the top of motor plastic cover off & considered removal from the top but you need to reach around the rear RHS of the Motor & there is a Bracket that a wiring harness clip attaches to attached under the Bottom Timing Chain Tensioner Nut.
So I decided to do the removal & replacement of the Timing Chain Tensioner from underneath.
#########
[1] On bench, check the new Timing Chain Tensioner extends & the pawl locks
[2] On bench, compress the new Timing Chain Tensioner to Zero & close the Lock Hook Clip
[3] Loosen off the RHS Wheel Lug Nuts (makes taking the wheel off easier later when you need to rotate crank counter clockwise to release the Lock Hook Clip)
[4] Mechanics jack the front of the car. Lower & rest both front wheels of the car on 150x150 timber blocks. Leave the mechanics jack in place
[5] Sheet of cardboard/Masonite or use an under car crawler & slide under.
Removal of the Timing Chain Tensioner from underneath is easy, Right hand access up through though the drive shaft aperture, Left hand access up from behind the driveshaft
[6] Unclip wiring harness clip from the bracket on the bottom stud of the Timing Chain Tensioner & move the harness out of the way
[7] Using 10mm Offset Ring Spanner undo the bottom M10 Nut & take off the nut & wiring harness bracket
[8] Place a rag below the timing chain tensioner as a little oil will come out when the Timing Chain Tensioner comes out
[9] Using10mm Offset Ring Spanner undo top M10 Nut, the spring loaded Timing Chain Tensioner will push out
[10] Clean the gasket mating surface
[11] Insert the New Timing Chain Tensioner with: a) Lock Hook Clip to the top, b) gasket tab to RHS, c) Gasket raised lip facing the timing chain case. Gasket is a crush Gasket, not an O-Ring.
[12] Found it useful to use just the two nuts first (ie don’t initially install the wiring harness bracket, do that after the Timing Chain Tensioner is seated before torquing the nuts)
[13] Use M10 1/4 “ ratchet on each nut “a turn per nut” to “seat the New Timing Chain Tensioner” squarely onto the gasket
[14] Undo the bottom nut & re-install the “wiring harness bracket”
[15] Seat the bottom nut
[16] Torque the Timing Chain Tensioner Nuts 9Nm
[17] Re-attach the wiring harness clip to the bracket
[18] Jack the front of vehicle, remove the front RHS wheel (why you loosened the RHS Front wheel lug nuts). Place a car jackstand under the RHS SubRail. Slide the wheel/tyre under the RHS behind the jackstand for safety
[19] Remove one (1) under guard Trim Clip front midway. Allows the under Guard Trim to be moved out enabling the Crank Trim Cover Trim Clips to be removed
[20] Remove four (4) of the Crank Cover Trim Clips & rotate the crank trim cover out of the way
[21] 19mm socket on the Crank, Rotate Anti-Clockwise listen for the CLICK as the Timing Chain Tensioner Lock Hook Clip releases, should be less than 1/4 of a revolution to the CLICK, go another 1&3/4 of a turn
[22] Rotate Clockwise & listen it should be silent, Turn the Motor over a Few times.
[23] Replace the Crank Trim Cover & four (4) clips.
[24] Replace the one (1) under guard Trim Clip front midway
[25] Put front RHS wheel back on
[26] Remove jack stand, Remove the 150 x 150 Timber Blocks, Remove the mechanics Jack
[27] Torque the RHS Front Wheel Lug Nuts
[28] Jog the Motor twice
[29] Start the motor normally listen for abnormal noises…there should not be any….go drive the car
When prepared, the above takes less than 20 minutes
##########
Noted
Original Tensioner Stamped E2, 16 teeth on extended tensioner piston past the pawl, Ext 32.08mm, Dia 14.37
New Tensioner Stamped G3, 16 teeth on extended tensioner piston past the pawl, Ext 32.3mm, Dia 14.35
Hope the above helps someone else.
Rob
Just really hope I get a noticeable, audible click when rotating! Any other ways I can possibly verify without removing the valve cover? Appreciate any words of encouragement! 
