Ok, let me pick on you.
Answer is - no. And it's not CVT or automatic transmission.
Shudder you experience at low speeds, up to 42mph, is ICE engaging and disengaging. Perfectly normal.

 

The TAH will a actually go 47 with the engine off - by the digital speedo - that looks more like 50 on the analog one. My 2007 and 2008 TCH would only do 43. So I LOVE the Avalon's (and assuming 2.5l Camry Hybrid) improvement. I can't replicate it but I've seen my car be electric only at 49.

The shudder I felt (only two times in 2,000 miles) was a hit more rapid, like driving on a rumble strip. And continued a full second or two. I'm only maybe 80% sure it was the driveline and not suspension.

I'm able to do anything on a regular car, but if course I can't fix anything I cant identify/replicate or safely work on. I would LOVE to buy a damaged or broken down old Prius or TCH and repair/sell for experience. I can't say "rebuild a PSD" as I'm not even sure they have friction components. I have a hope I won't have to as HSD is rock solid. That shudder is just concerning.

 

 

So it could be tires. I'm replacing all 4 on my HiHy today because of that. Out of round.
There is no friction or hydraulic components. You watched video right?

 

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/63-highlander-hybrid/1407338-jerking-low-speeds.html#post12672658

If this does not help, then it's ICE kicking on/off continuously, causing shudder. Reason being, if I kick gear shifter into neutral, shudder stops.

 

I did. it explains how it all works in decent depth, but I'd still love to tear one apart and understand Better. There must be some kind of clutch at least for engaging/ disengaging the ICE. Also, when you press the brakes and it variably, based on how hard you
Press, adds generator resistance... I feel like there has to be clutch packs or something friction based to do those two things but it's just because I haven't seen one apart to assume otherwise. I would love to see and exploded view of one

The tires are being replaced soon.

 

There is no clutch. There is clutch plate looking torque dampener between flywheel and PSD. Without friction ring on it. It simply dampens torque between the two devices. Of course, if you say "there must be", faith can move the mountains and it will appear there. Must be strong faith though. As there is none. It's block of planetary gears connected to that dampener and drivexale. With motor incorporated. No clutches, no friction plates, none of that nature.

Is this "disassembled" for you enough? Please, pay attention that he uses words like "clutch plate" and "clutch disk" but when reinstalled back onto the flywheels, it goes onto STUDS so there is not rotational component or slippage and word "permanent" is key word. Also see RIVET HEADS sticking out of that "friction plate" which clearly not applicable to any radial movement. That thing does not move, it's the springs in a clutch LIKE plate that dampen rotational force, aka torque. Toyota simply modified existing part they use place else, why not. Save a buck. A yen.

 

After watching that I feel silly for asking.

It's quite amazing. So it "splits" power like a differential would "split" power to and from a driveshaft is how I understand it. Like, one wheel (the engine) can be stopped while the other wheel (MG2) is being turned and the driveshaft will still spin - the driveshaft being the output to the final drive in this case. Turn the wheel that was stopped (the motor) and as a result the other wheel (mg2) doesn't have to spin as fast to keep the drive shaft going at the same speed. Brilliant


Seems like there isn't much in there that can go wrong other than the bearings that hold all of those prices in motion.


On a side note, I can get the car to drop into EV mode at 48mph. It can accelerate from the to 49 before ten ICE is forced on. I love this car.

 

Yes, it is very clever.
Check your speedo by GPS. Mine is 4 miles fast. It should cut off at 45.

 

Every Toyota I've had has been fast. Usually by about 3mph. Funny thing is, the digital one appears to be slower than the analog. Now I'm curious and will try GPS. My 1950 Chevy is off by like 11%. It's been on my to do list for over a year to install a reduction gizmo. When I do I'll probably forget and get speeding tickets

I'm now on the hunt for a less than perfect Prius or TCH to fix up and sell. Found one that needs a hybrid battery. Might be a good experience. The PO said there is a "circuit breaker" built in and with that, it's not dangerous to work on the electrical side of HSD? Do you know anything about this?

 

You want to place your Q into a new thread, please. I DOUBT it will be that easy of a fix though. Just saying. Get a hail damage one from TX and that will be a good flip. Buddy fixed one last year, something like 5 yo, that was bought for $2500 due to hail damage. THAT I get. You start messing with dem electronics it's destined to cost you arm and genitals.

 

That's good advice. I just want to familiarize my self with these systems and be able to fix them. I'd love to be the "Hybrid guy" fixing up 150k 10 year old hybrids to go to another owner that will see them to 300k

So as for my wobble. I'm sure it's nothing but it seems to possibly be the ice. I can barely feel it but it's there. How do I run the ice at higher rpms with the car parked? Does techstream have provisions for doing so?

Thanks

 

You can place system into what is called maintenance mode and then it behaves just like a regular car.
In my case, so far, we found loose engine mount. rear one. It's on order. I'll replace struts, mount and spark plugs in 2 weeks.

 

Yikes. How did you personally identify the mount? And is TIS needed for maintenance mode

 

No, there is sequence you perform to put it into MM.
We had my HIHy on car lift and basically poked everywhere with a long bar. noticed that rear engine mount moves too much.

 

So my ICE doesn't have any abnormal vibrations but I swear I feel a wobble lower speeds. I hate to go through bringing it in. Wish I could identify it on my own, document it, and show Toyota if need be, but I can barely replicate it let alone identify it.

I guess it will manifest eventually as a bigger issue

 

SO far, I am replacing rear engin emount on my HiHy and struts. I'll let you know if it cures. I doubt it's engine, it's likely suspension. Get her up on a lift and poke everywhere with long bar.

 

What do you mean poke everywhere with a long bar? I've diagnosed suspension in the past by grabbing and shaking the wheels, or looking underneath for play while a helper turns the wheels (the car on the ground) but I ALWAYS welcome new methods. Diagnosis is the art of our hobby

 

"poke" means you get LONG prybar and you move engine, control arms, etc, with quite some force applied. Bud who did this for me, he couldn't find anything wrong with my HiHy until he actually stuck bar between firewall and engine - car up on the lift - and moved engine to check engine mounts. THEN he noticed that rear mount is loose.
"by hand" shows on suspension elements that are pretty much gone. "just going" you need some force applied.
EG, control arms, you must use prybar.

 

OK… I could almost replicate the issue… Between 43 and 47 mph, with the ice on, I get a wobble. Guessing it's a motor mount, because the motor doesn't have any irregular vibrations when revved in maintenance mode, I hope to poke around under there soon

 

WOBBLE.
See, to me, wobble is side to side. Then it's tie rod ends and hub bearings or control arm bushings. Also, it depends if it were in the body or in steering wheel only.
Up and down points towards out of round tire (easy check) , struts, engine mounts.
I am replacing my HiHy rear mount in couple days. I'll update on results.

 

Well put. It up-and-down per your post above I was gonna check tire out of round though I Have come to understand tires can have issues not visible to the naked eye. Watching the ICE start and stop there is less movement than on most cars when watching the engine while going from p to d to r. Could be struts? I wanna do 2016 springs and new KYBs soon anyway.

But it seems way more noticeable around 44, while maintaining speed not accelerating- ICE on

Hope it's not internal ice issue :-/

It runs smooth in maintenance mode. Seems kind of chatterie when idling but then again it's the Atkinson cycle and 2.5L isn't quiet anyway. Tough with nothing to compare it to

Before I seek help it must be easily replicated and super noticeable

It's funny... I have built complete cars with many major parts fabricated (such and complete brake pedal assemblies to use 69 corvette MC and booster) and put 1000s of miles on it. I've done big jobs on modern cars, but where I need
To grow is diagnostics

 

Check rear engine mount.

 

Actually, on a 4 banger, you can find good spot to slide piece of wood and pry bar between engine and firewall. Then move engine back-for. It''ll tell if a mount is bad.

 

I'll give that a try. I'd be glad to identify the issue. Surprised to see a mount go so young.

I do remember then on/off of the ice in my 07 TCH getting harsher with age. Maybe it was a mount? Never did the rumble strip thing though

 

Mine is V6 on HiHy and really tilted towards firewall. I can see how single small rear mount may go bad rather fast. They have only 3 mounts, 2 huge ones in the front but tiny little shister in the rear. Happens to be right were driveaxles are attached to the engine. So it is rather logical to conclude that changes in driveaxles torque may influence how that mount responds. Not to mention that due to tilt, a lot of engine weight is shifted towards that mount.
Again, we are only stipulating. We do not know. I'll get to mine Saturday am. I also have both struts ordered, one came in. KYB, as OEM strut. Can't get Quick Strut or Strut PLus, unfortunately.