I'm the only one that's had this issue?... Not even sweeneyp?

Does anyone know if the actuator on the 2015 HL can be taken apart like other years? Model number or link for the replacement motor? I would tear mine down and figure out myself, except the high temp here today is -1F. Thanks.

 

When you are inside the vehicle if you press the button on the door to lock the doors or your key fob 2 doors they are not locking are they making any noise or not. If they make the noise and do not lock definitely bad actuator if they don't make any noise at all it can be still actuator but it may also be electrical they are not getting power. Cant you buy an extend warranty wait for few months than you can claim for it. It is a shame if 2 doors failed so soon I know I ended up replacing 4 doors on a 2001 Lexus gs300 but those years Toyota was notorious about those door lock I taught they already fixed that problem after 15 years.
if you need wiring diagram i should be able to find it if you need it.
Good luck

 

Thanks for the advice CuriousGuy.

I decided to pull one of the actuators out (rear driver side). Removal was easy. Getting the actuator apart was a different story. Two pieces of plastic bonded together. I worked a razor around the edge of the two halves, pulled it apart and managed to crack one of the pieces in the process. Not going to fight putting it back together with a new motor, so I just went ahead and ordered a re-manufactured OEM actuator off of eBay.

For those who need to know, the little electric motor inside the actuator is stamped "FC-280ST-15240" and below that "KD604220." And below that... "MADE IN CHINA."

 

Update

The actuator I ordered off of eBay wasn't compatible. Apparently works for pre-2014 HLs, seller indicated was compatible for 2014+, which it isn't. Two reasons not compatible it seems:

1) Location of cable connection on actuator. Both the lock and door pull cables attach at the bottom of the actuator on the 2014+ actuator, whereas the older actuator has the lock cable at the bottom and the pull is mid-body on the older actuator. This seems to affect the length of pull on the cables, also the distance the cables are "pulled" once slotted into the actuator appears to be different.

2) The bigger issue seems to be the cable end style for the door pull cable. The old style uses a cable end that looks like a flat-sided circle (like that on a bicycle brake cable), whereas the new model uses more of a "leg" style (not sure of technical names), can't get the new style cable to seat properly, so it works itself loose.

I'm going to suck it up and buy a new OEM actuator, have a PM out to a site sponsor for a quote.

 

A couple simple pics for what it's worth. First, comparison photo, the white actuator is the one out of my '15 HL. The second pic is with cables attached.

 

One last update.

My issue is fixed. It was in fact the rear left door lock actuator. Roman at Toyota of Cool Springs hooked me up with the best price on the new OEM actuator I could find (Thanks!). He is a forum member/sponsor you can contact through this site. Shipping was fast and Cool Springs knocked off around $100 off the $320.11 list price . The part is a big chunk of plastic with a Chinese motor and plastic gears. Only metal is the latch -- can't see how Toyota has more than $20 in the part - maybe my view is just skewed after it failed after only 2 years.

The proper part number for the left rear actuator ('15 HL) is: 69060-0E030.

Not happy with my Toyota lately. My driver side actuator is still acting up now and then, suspect I'll be replacing it soon.

 

You should do a write up just in case someone else has the same issue and doesnt know how or where to start from.

 

I just posted a thread about problems I am having with my power door locks. Maybe you can review it and tell me if it is similar to your story, or not.

I gotta say: I like a lot about my Toyota Highlander, it is a 2014 model. However, quality? LOL..... no better than any other car I have owned. Toyota quality is marketing hype. I have had so many things go to hell on this vehicle, that it is a joke. Luckily, most were repaired under warranty.

If I find that I am faced with $1,000 worth of bills for bad actuators all around, on a 2 year old vehicle with 44k miles on it.... then I am not only monumentally disappointed in my first Toyota purchase, but may have to look at other alternatives.

My personal experience with Toyota corporate and Toyota service at dealerships (plural) has been abysmal.

Because of some of my prior posts which have 10's of thousands of views on this forum, I secretly hope that has served to send at least a small percentage of lurking shoppers elsewhere.

I keep holding out hope after each repair, but then get discouraged as another issue crops up. They are starting to make even Dodge look good.

 

I have pretty much exactly the same problems as you. Did Toyota do anything for you ever?

I'm on my 3rd door lock actuator failure, my power lift-gate doesn't go all the way up, my glove compartment is off the tracks, and the other day the air conditioner wouldn't turn on. I'm at my wits end with this car.

 

So this is an old thread, but I figured I'd chime in just in case someone else has it too. I've been experiencing this issue for a long time, and getting worse, on my '14 HL that I bought in '16. Probably a year-year and a half after buying I'd get random failures trying to use the keyless entry via the touch-handle. but it'd trigger the alarm for about 5-10 seconds. It gradually got worse and worse to the point that more than 50% of the time I'd end up having to use the actual key to unlock or lock the car door. I had purchased an extended warranty through my bank (USAA) when I bought it, and I basically paid for the warranty in one service.

The dealer's service rep told me this was quite common (UGH!) and they wanted $1100 to fix both front doors (that were affected). As for Toyota's "legendary reliability" I only see that in power train situations. Anything electric will die, and now that everything is made to the lowest bidder, I expect it to.

 

I had this same problem...but mine was just the Fob Battery. Replace battery - all fixed.

 

Lucky you. For me I started noticing that when I would shift from park to drive not all the doors would lock (but were configured to do so) so that ruled out the fob.

 

Daughter's RX Lexus had the same issue. Friend of hers is a service tech and he told her it's a common problem. Dealer wanted $2400 to fix all four doors. $1,400 MSRP just for the actuators. Her friend's first suggestion was to sell or trade the vehicle as is. He ultimately bought her the parts at his cost and installed them. His price for the OEM was about the same as the Rockauto price for aftermarket parts. Shop talk has it that the aftermarket part failure rate is higher than the OEM.

Suggest that you search YouTube for a video on how to replace.

Might be be a long shot but you may find something on rebuilding the old actuators with replacement parts.

Daughter said that the actual swaping out of the actuators was the easy part. Its getting the door panels off and on without damaging something is where all of the labor comes from.


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I have a similiar problem 2015 HL - doors don't always unlock with Keyfob - have 2 replace batteries but not better, when locking, sometime no beep, lock manually and get beap - when attempting to unclock, and it will not, get 5 beeps, normally have to climb through back door to unlock as it effects one or both front doors and is intermittent - also, tried to unlock with key and couldn't - any thoughts / direction apprectiated.

 

I assume your 2nd key fob is Not within sight of the vehicle also all doors and rear glass hatch are securely closed and no issue with any of the plunger door switch... if all checked out, then either one of your door actuator is dying/malfunctioning or possibly one of the door actuator mechanism is binding... My $0.02 and that would be how I will track down the problem.

 

Made in China parts in a Toyota. That's the tip of the iceberg and the end of reliability.

 

Toyota or any company has (even us the comsumers have) the choice to source parts from whomever is desired; unfortunately, in most cases choices were made based on cost $$$ rather than quality. If anyone is to blame, blame the business decision makers.

 

And a country that sells your kids toys with hazardous waste in their materials and drywall that causes multi hundred thousand dollar homes to be condemned, and destroyed, without recourse form the manufacturer, should never be considered by any corporation, that does not understand that overall quality is the sum of quality components, loses it's most important asset, it's reputation.
Now they are no better than GM with chinese made engines that are shot at 100k miles.
I can remember when Japan's products were put put boats and tin toys. They learned the value of quality and now it seems like they have forgotten that lesson.

 

We are getting off the topic. It's all business greed; Bottomline, if there is no demand the source of supply and supplier won't last very long.

 

Watched the same thing when I sold my shop. People wanted me to put advance auto parts in their cars. A simple blower motor resistor in my 97 Ranger failed every 3 months, the original lasted 19 years. Told the buyer to get a Ford part and them he didn't have to put wing nuts in place of the screws so he could swap it out without tools. In my shop I gave a 1 year warranty without mileage, warranties were non existent, would have killed my 10% profit margin.