The battery is always feeding power to the switch,starting the car does nothing for the faulty locking switch

 

So what do I need to replace?

 

Do you have a remote starter or has the car ever had one?

 

I'm not sure, the key I got did not look original, and I didn't get a remote.

 

my ex had a 95 camry and it had the same problem and we had 1 key for the drivers door and ignition and a second key for the trunk and passenger door. I found a receiver under the dash above the brake pedal and I took it out and my problem was solved. I would suspect the drivers door lock switch. Does the passenger side lock and unlock. Your problem should be a easy fix. If it unlocks and locks with the ignition on the solenoids are good. You can pull the lock switch switch off, pull the plug and jump the plug terminals and if you can unlock it the it's your switch. By the way I went to the salvage yard and found a car with an ignition key and pulled the ignition, door locks and trunk lock and put them on her car. I hate to have different locks in a car.

 

I looked, there was no receiver underneath the steering wheel area, and also the passenger side does the same thing. When one doesn't work, neither of them do.

 

could still be the switch. If you buy from parts store and it doesn't correct the problem then return it. On some cars the wire runs to drivers side switch and then to passenger side switch. Not sure about camry because I have never had to work on one.

 

So I would need something like this?
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1058950&cc=1273610

 

I highly doubt that the switches are the problem. Might be a bad ground or a wonky integration relay.

 

Would a picture of something help diagnose the issue?

 

Do you have the lock out switch for the doors and windows(child protection nanny switch)
Unplug it and see what you have then

 

Yes I do, how would I unplug it?

 

Take the arm rest part an get to the switch, then unplug it from the bottom of the switch
If it doesn't correct the issue reconnect the wires and replace the door lock while its apart.
The left switch is the master side and can affect the ride side by default

 

I tried unplugging both plugs and it didn't help. Another weird symptom that might help find a solution, when I was trying that today, I unlocked the drivers side with the key, tried to unlock with power locks and nothing. I locked it, went to the passenger side, unlocked with a key, tried to unlock with power locks and boom, it worked.

And this is the way it happens 100% of the time(didn't realize it till now), it is not random. The rear passenger doors never let me unlock with power locks if I manually unlock them first, only manually unlocking the front passenger door will allow the power locks to work.

:help:

 

Been a while since I've looked at a wiring diagram for a door switch, so I don't know if the lock/unlock with the key will work with the switches disconnected (if someone know is the feature works with the switches disconnected, please add in).

But, If the feature works with the switches disconnected. I'd disconnect them both and try using your key from the outside. If everything works as it should, one of the switches is the problem. Connect the passenger side, and try again. If it doesn't work, disconnect it, and connect the drivers side. If it then works then the passenger side switch is faulty. Reverse the sequence to check the driver's side switch.

 

I haven't been able to try and resolve this yet, as I said it happens intermittently, but there is no way for me to unlock all doors with both switches unplugged. There is no feature on this car that lets me unlock all doors with just the key.

 

Quick question, would a dying battery have anything at all to do with this? Or a "dying" fuse?

 

No such thing as a dying fuse.

Anyway, if the doors don't unlock, how are you getting in the car?

 

a guess is it's the keyless entry system or a dealer installed (or aftermarket) alarm or combination.
(i am trying to figure out an issue with a 98 securikey plus system that will arm, but only unarm with a key to the ignition.)

the keyless entry system and door parts seem able to function as the doors unlock, lock sometimes.

an alarm system can be operated and cancelled by a master key in a door, usually driver door.
also the starting of the car with a key cancels the alarm, which allows the keyless to operate.

 

That might be it, however, how would I check if I had an alarm system and how would I go about removing it? And if I decided to keep the alarm system would I just go to a toyota dealer and get a key fob? The key my car came with looked like a duplicate, and I have one of those red LED's that flash for an alarm system.

Thanks for the help!

 

Well my rear driver side door would refuse to lock and roll down the window for a couple years. I even replaced the master window and door lock control on the drivers side (junk yard 5$ part) and it didnt make much of a difference. Wasnt until i realized that the wires in the door in the main wire harness were cracked and some were split in half.

I would goto one of those you pull it yourself junk yards, root around looking for the wire harness from the control switch in the door to the inside where your feet dwell, its a bit of a pain but it can be fun to do, pretty much any camry 92-96 will work, altho i will tell you if you have electric door mirrors, look for a wire harness that has those wires, and especially the correct plug ins, or do like me and manually splice them yourself to make them fit, works either way, one is just easier. Hope that helps.

Long story short, driver door wire harness, check for cracks in the wires, if so i would get a new one at a junk yard, get it yourself, dont let some guy pull it appart for you with YOU inspecting it first.

 

Maybe this has already been stated, but you need to tap into the pulse signal from the second switch in the door, the one which is actuated by the key unlocking the door. The single pulse from this switch is ignored but the double pulse is not masked by the ECU and results in all 4 doors being unlocked. The Gen 3 cars has this switch as part of the solenoid/actuator I believe so the wires coming off this unit will be where you tap into, as an example the nice (unbreakable) ES300 cast aluminum handles have the same switch attached to the lock barrel.

If you tap into the secondary interior door switch it will be ignored by the ECU as a security measure.

 

How exactly would I "tap" into it? I don't get what your saying, sorry.

if you have an led that is the valet switch, which is for the keyless and an alarm.
i think it is added with the alarm, but am not sure.

i have the valet sw. out as off. all doors locks work fine, manually by switch or automatically.

i did not notice your year, but here is a link for an older securikey system.
http://jjguy.com/securikey/securikeycommandmanual.pdf
it is mostly programming the remote, but you can change functions as well.
there is troubleshooting, but i have yet to figure out my programming problem yet.

in forums, worn or shorting wires is often referenced as the culprit.

Your link doesn't work. And so your saying it can't be the alarm? So could I get an old key fob and start using it? I have a 97 camry le. And which key fob would I need? Saw some on ebay for $30.

 

if you have an led that is the valet switch, which is for the keyless and an alarm.
i think it is added with the alarm, but am not sure.

i have the valet sw. out as off. all doors locks work fine, manually by switch or automatically.

i did not notice your year, but here is a link for an older securikey system.
http://jjguy.com/securikey/securikeycommandmanual.pdf
it is mostly programming the remote, but you can change functions as well.
there is troubleshooting, but i have yet to figure out my programming problem yet.

in forums, worn or shorting wires is often referenced as the culprit.

 

It happened again today, at about 6:00. It tends to happen around the end of the day or beginning of the day. Again, after and only after I manually unlocked the passenger side from the inside would the power locks work.

I am starting to think maybe the tech's who replaced my drivers side door handle screwed something up while they were in there. Is that possible?

 

geez. hope this right; i cannot just highlight it.
http://jjguy.com/securikey/securikeycommonmanual.pdf

from what i have read, it probably is the alarm.
since most of the components work, it seems like a minor problem, like a function setting.
of course, that may only be hopeful thinking.
there are function settings you can change (lock, unlock some doors, lights, etc.), but usually with programming the system with the remote.

i am not sure buying a remote is worth it. you have to match the key fob by fcc frequency codes.
i would ask the dealer to program it first to see. it should be free, about five minutes.

i went to the dealer after i tried the above instructions in the manual.
the dealer could not get it past the arm button ( i do have the remote) programming, but tried the same procedure.

trouble shooting the system would be next. the last page has the wiring for the plug.
tedmich is showing the door actuator.
my 98 4 runner did not have a solenoid on the key cylinder. i do not know on the camry.

 

Is there any way to physically check if I have a keyless entry system or alarm, without calling the dealer?

 

factory alarms are described pretty well in the ORM, aftermarket ones are usually spotted by taps into horn, external siren in engine bay or wheel well or taps into ignition system usually at steering column or near fuse box on left hand side of passenger compartment. A typical alarm with remote start requires a custom "mini harness" like this

which is hard to miss, or understand after the fact. Factory alarms are relatively easy to trouble shoot and problems often arise from frayed wires, bad switches etc. Trouble shooting a typical aftermarket install can be a nightmare and buying another $50 unit of ebay (with DETAILED directions!) can be the best way to go, IMHO.

 

Where would this OEM wiring harness be if I had it?

I keep thinking though that maybe it isn't the alarm at all. I don't recall having these issues when I first bought the car(the car didn't come with a key fob). Is it possible that the mechanic who replaced my drivers side outside door handle mucked something up to where this kind of thing happens? Because if I turn my key to the right twice on my drivers side, it doesn't unlock all the doors like it's supposed to, only unlocks the driver's door. The reason I think this is possible is because for all intents and purposes the front passenger side works exactly like it's supposed to, except on the inside power door lock switch(when the doors won't unlock), which I understand is linked to the drivers side power door lock switch.

I really appreciate your guys help with this :thanks:

 

apparently some 1997 Camrys (XLE?) have the Lexus ES300 type switch on the lock cylinder

so maybe repair guy just used one without a switch, or didn't attach it, have you opened up door and compared working (right front) mechanism with non working (left front) mechanism?

 

I haven't actually checked it yet, but I think I need a socket extension to get the handle out correct?

 

I believe the problem has resolved itself. I had the battery replaced a few days ago and knock on wood it hasn't happened since. My battery had a dead cell.

 

I guess I spoke too soon, it happened again this morning.

 

this vid helps

theres a related one on pulling door panels
you will need a 10mm socket on a ~6" extension, but think of all the money you are saving by buying a ~$1000 set of tools

make sure not to drop bolts into door, retrieve them with strong magnet on dowel if you do as they often fall into lock mechanism

 

@OP: I'd suggest cleaning the ground wires in the driver's kick panel. I had an intermittent problem just like yours. What I did was unbolt the grounding bolt and sanded the metal on the chassis along with the ground wire terminals, followed by a wipe of alcohol. Then tighten them all down nice and snug.

 

Interesting... I'm gonna give that a try tomorrow, sounds easy enough with what I have.