this is my first post in this forum and i have to say i have done my modifications by reading here, and pb i have to let you know you are a great modifier, i got to give you props.

well about the dyna beads i have never tried them but if you wanted to get rid off those clamp on weights you could go with sticky weights on the inner portion of the rim where they are less visible. i plan on doing this at the first tire rotation so i can rebalance them. if anyone is getting this done at a shop ask for a dynamic balance which balances both sides of the rim. static balance only balances the center of the wheel as a whole. in another word dynamic balance is better.

 

Anybody used these to balance your tires? I've heard lots of good things about em on other forums. No need for ugly wheel weights.

http://www.innovativebalancing.com/

Installation
http://www.innovativebalancing.com/service.htm

I was under the impression that people only use beads for very large tires. Ones that they can't balance in the shop? But from what I've heard, they appear to do their job if you install them right.

 

I've heard from people that have acutally used them that they worked as advertised. Maybe I'll give them a shot on my jeep. If nothing else I'll save about 5lbs per wheel from ditching the weights

 

I put them in my 265/75/16 BFG A/T's and the vibration got worse.

I had a slight vibration after getting the tires balanced. So I figured I would give them a try, as I to read good things about them, even put them in my buddies Matrix with excellent results.

I put 5oz in each front tire and the vibration got worse.

I'll deal with it in the spring when I put the rims and tires back on the truck.

Marc M

 

I'm intrigued.
I still wonder if the ceramic won't abrade the tire liner.
Also, most steel wheels and tires that I've had require some cross balancing on opposite sides of the wheels (the reason why you spin ["dynamic"] balance instead of using the old bubble level [static] balance hardware). (they refer to some of this as lateral) In some cases you have to place a weight on the inside of the wheel and an identical weight on the outside, 180 deg apart, in order to balance the moment produced when the wheel is spun. That would require their "maintenance" method.

But I am tempted to try it.

 

I think the "stick-on" weights is still the best options compare to the hammer/clamp on type..... or you can try these beads. :gaydumbo:

 

I think the "stick-on" weights is still the best options compare to the hammer/clamp on type..... or you can try these beads. :gaydumbo:

I don't think you should offer out your used beads to anyone, that is unsanitary....

 

I put them in my 265/75/16 BFG A/T's and the vibration got worse.

I had a slight vibration after getting the tires balanced. So I figured I would give them a try, as I to read good things about them, even put them in my buddies Matrix with excellent results.

I put 5oz in each front tire and the vibration got worse.

I'll deal with it in the spring when I put the rims and tires back on the truck.

Marc M

For what we would call "static balance", the beads ought to have helped.
If they didn't it may be exactly that what you have is an imbalance that is offset from centreline of the tread , resulting in the moment (tendency for that spot of the wheel to move outward from the plane of rotation). The only way I know of to resolve that is with computer spin balancing that determines which side of the wheel each weight goes on, as well as the location around the rim.

Boring explanation alert!-
Imagine that we have a perfectly balanced wheel. We then replace the valve stem with one that weighs an extra 2 ounces, and we put another 2 ounce weight 180 degrees away, but on the opposite side of the wheel. If we put the wheel on an old-fashioned "static" bubble balancer, it still looks balanced. (Wheel is horizontal, just as much weight at each end of wheel, it's just that the 2 oz added to each end are on opposite rims.) Put the wheel on the vehicle and spin it- the extra weight on the inside of the wheel tries to move radially outward, and the extra weight of the valve stem tries to do the same. Looking at the wheel rolling toward you, the centripetal force of the valve stem is offset from wheel vertical centreline by about 4 inches to the outside, and the other weight is about 4 inches to the inside. Since they are located 180 deg apart around the wheel, this puts their centripetal forces in opposite directions, but 8 inches apart. This creates a moment (like your hand on an 8" long wrench handle) trying to rotate the wheel perpendicular to the plane of rotation. It'll give you a wobble or shimmy feel, as opposed to a loping or hop. The beads inside the wheel will center their mass on the approx center of the tread and will be of no help in balancing the effect. I suppose that the low stiffness of the sidewall of radial tires might even be such that the beads could make it worse, particularly at certain speeds.

If, however, one were to use balance weights to take care of the "dynamic imbalance" of the valve stem and the other weight, then the beads could handle rebalancing any static balance that remains, or that would occur with tread wear, mud accumulation, etc.

 

I'm not sure about the tech of it all, but if it works, it works. I've read lots of good testimonies. I have stick on weights on my wheels, and clamp-ons on the inside lip, but the tire shop was not able to get 'em perfect after several tries. Plus they had to use a lot of weights. Dyna Beads actually go where the tire needs the weight, out on the perimeter of the tire. Which means that you need less weight than if you put weights on the rim. As a rough example: you can put 10 ounces on the rim, or 5 ounces in the tire. The closer you get to the hub, the more weights you need. (From what I understand)

 

I put them in my 265/75/16 BFG A/T's and the vibration got worse.

I had a slight vibration after getting the tires balanced. So I figured I would give them a try, as I to read good things about them, even put them in my buddies Matrix with excellent results.

I put 5oz in each front tire and the vibration got worse.

I'll deal with it in the spring when I put the rims and tires back on the truck.

Marc M

I read that if your vibration gets worse then you need to adjust the amount of beads you have in the tire. Probably add a few ounces.

 

I'm not sure about the tech of it all, but if it works, it works. I've read lots of good testimonies. I have stick on weights on my wheels, and clamp-ons on the inside lip, but the tire shop was not able to get 'em perfect after several tries. Plus they had to use a lot of weights. Dyna Beads actually go where the tire needs the weight, out on the perimeter of the tire. Which means that you need less weight than if you put weights on the rim. As a rough example: you can put 10 ounces on the rim, or 5 ounces in the tire. The closer you get to the hub, the more weights you need. (From what I understand)

That's exactly correct -as far as static balancing goes.
However, the difference between the static and dynamic balancing is that you find out where weight has to be placed with regard to location away from tread centerline, measured parallel to the axis of rotation. Since the beads end up spread evenly about center of the tread (ideal for the static balance issues), they can't compensate for an imbalance that is off the centerline of the tread. (e.g. an extra heavy valve stem or a slightly off center tread belt).

In the case of an imbalance caused by a "super heavy" valve stem- the ideal balance would be a weight equal to the imbalanced weight of the stem, at exactly the same radius as the valve stem, but 180 degrees away. However, it would also need to be the same distance outward (from the plane running thru the center of the tread) as the valve stem. If placed on the opposite side of the wheel, it would look great on an old bubble level (static) balancer, but a spin balance would show the imbalance due to the couple that the two weights not being in the same plane.

 

I'm not sure about the tech of it all, but if it works, it works. I've read lots of good testimonies. I have stick on weights on my wheels, and clamp-ons on the inside lip, but the tire shop was not able to get 'em perfect after several tries. Plus they had to use a lot of weights. Dyna Beads actually go where the tire needs the weight, out on the perimeter of the tire. Which means that you need less weight than if you put weights on the rim. As a rough example: you can put 10 ounces on the rim, or 5 ounces in the tire. The closer you get to the hub, the more weights you need. (From what I understand)

if the shop had to use a lot of wheights they should of rotated the tire 180 from the rim. most of the time this helps alot specially on larger tires. if they are putting anything close to 5oz on any side of the rim i would say ask them if they tried this method.

 

this is kinda off topic but why were my wheels balanced like this? a weight at 12oc and a weight at 6oc

Dont they just balance each other out somewhat ? I have a slight shake at 70mph or so.

 

this is kinda off topic but why were my wheels balanced like this? a weight at 12oc and a weight at 6oc

Dont they just balance each other out somewhat ? I have a slight shake at 70mph or so.

It looks odd (and of course, it could be wrong) but it's likely because of the dynamic balancing.
Do you have another weight on the inside of the wheel at about the same position as one of those two? (in other words, directly on the opposite side of the wheel from where one of these is) Since from side to side relative to the tread, you only have two choices of position for a weight (either inboard or outboard, but nowhere in between), if you need to balance a variation in your wheel or tire that is btwn those two positions, you need to place more or less weight, and add another weight on the other side or 180 degrees away to make up the difference. If the wheel is statically balanced, but has a dynamic error, you'll usually put two weights, one at 6 oc on one side and the other at 12 oc on the other side. But ifyou also need to make up a small static error, you may have to add another weight on the outside .

 

It looks odd (and of course, it could be wrong) but it's likely because of the dynamic balancing.
Do you have another weight on the inside of the wheel at about the same position as one of those two? (in other words, directly on the opposite side of the wheel from where one of these is) Since from side to side relative to the tread, you only have two choices of position for a weight (either inboard or outboard, but nowhere in between), if you need to balance a variation in your wheel or tire that is btwn those two positions, you need to place more or less weight, and add another weight on the other side or 180 degrees away to make up the difference. If the wheel is statically balanced, but has a dynamic error, you'll usually put two weights, one at 6 oc on one side and the other at 12 oc on the other side. But ifyou also need to make up a small static error, you may have to add another weight on the outside .

What is weird is that I had a set of hankook Mt's That balanced out with less weight on the same rims. I would have kept them but the 10plys were just a bit to stiff for my wifes back.

 

1st hand experience:
I have run balancing powder (Equal) and Dynabeads in 2 separate sets of tires on the same vehicle. In both circumstances, the beads didn't do jack shit. I was in constant contact with the manufacturer (Innovative Balancing) and they kept recommending that I increase the load per tire. Ultimately wound up with a 1.5# of that stuff in each tire... and it still wobbled at speed.

In both cases I vacuumed the crap and went to lead. In both cases a good balancing job with lead did what the beads couldn't.

 

Just keep in mind that M/T's are harder to balance than A/T or street tires. The bigger the tires (more meat) the more weight is usually required to get them balance. I'm currently running the Yoko's M/T in 265/70/17 on Tundra rims and all my weight are inside the wheel. I don't have any humming, wobbles, or shaking whatsoever on the highway.

 

this is kinda off topic but why were my wheels balanced like this? a weight at 12oc and a weight at 6oc

Dont they just balance each other out somewhat ? I have a slight shake at 70mph or so.

hey bro, go back to the shop and have them remove those weights. that is called counter balance and is not the proper way to balance a wheel. i would also recommend that you tell them to use sticky weights and perform a dynamic balance. i would suggest you try and not be rude because they will have your wheels but ask them about other ways they can balance. if they are rude to you even though you paid, take your buisness somewhere that they are willing to take care of you. lrt them now the shake at 70mph they should not charge you again.

the probable reason why they used two different wheights is because they ran out of what the wheel needed or where to lazy to get a new pack out. that is not a good job on their part.

 

hey bro, go back to the shop and have them remove those weights. that is called counter balance and is not the proper way to balance a wheel. i would also recommend that you tell them to use sticky weights and perform a dynamic balance. i would suggest you try and not be rude because they will have your wheels but ask them about other ways they can balance. if they are rude to you even though you paid, take your buisness somewhere that they are willing to take care of you. lrt them now the shake at 70mph they should not charge you again.

the probable reason why they used two different wheights is because they ran out of what the wheel needed or where to lazy to get a new pack out. that is not a good job on their part.

Great Info thats the fuel I needed to go back to my local "goodyear" autocenter :disappoin I knew it looked weird. Im not a math teacher. But if you think about it one weight is countering the oter like you said.

 

I am using DynaBeads in my tires now. They're great. The tires are smooth as glass at all speeds. I put a 6oz bag of beads in each tire while the tire shop mounted the tires. No balancing problems. No ugly wheel weights. I definitely recommend the Dynabeads. :thumbup:

 

Good to hear. Are the dyna beads something that shop used or did you buy them and put them in? I have read discussions about them on other boards before. No one had actually had any personal experience with them.

 

You can get the same results from shotgun shot.

Thats what all the guys around here do, anyway.

 

Shotgun shot will actually chew up the inside of an aluminum wheel....

 

Shotgun shot will actually chew up the inside of an aluminum wheel....

After a few years maybe. These guys have trail rigs, not daily drivers. Not like their tearing down the interstate at 80mph.

I mean it is very popular here.

 

Good to hear. Are the dyna beads something that shop used or did you buy them and put them in? I have read discussions about them on other boards before. No one had actually had any personal experience with them.

I ordered them. I think there's a link on the first page of this thread. I put them in the tires while the shop was mounting them. Let them slip the first tire bead on the wheel, then slip the bag in the tire, then let them finish putting the tire on. Once you drive, the bag opens and the beads spread out and do their job.