Last week I put my Dynalock electric tailgate lock on. I spent a lot of time going through TN getting advice. I appreciate all the good info I got. Without it I probably wouldn’t have attempted this.
It dawned on me that others might appreciate having all this info in one place so I thought I’d post this. As I was getting ready, I also wished there were more pics available – so I took some and will post them too.
Some of this may be of value to someone considering another type of tailgate lock, but the Dynalock is the only one I have experience with.
Disclamer: 99%+ of this info came from those who did this before me. Special thanks especially to Activator, str8burbon, & 06xc6spd4x4. I will try to add to what they (and others) put together.
Here goes.
This is the dynolock web site:
http://www.dynolock.com
I chose the standard actuator model ($70) here:
http://www.dynolock.com/tota20wac1.html
There is also a heavier duty high security actuator model ($100)
This video shows the lock in action:
http://site.dynolock.com/installation/toyota05/TAC05C_rev.swf
You will get a copy of these instructions:
http://site.dynolock.com/installation/toyota05/tta05_instr.htm
Some have reported effective assistance when calling Jim at Dynolock 888-396-6562. I didn’t need to do this but it’s worth knowing.
MUST READ POSTS:
These three give you all the info you need. Each builds on the other and takes into account the changes Dynalock has incorporated.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showpost.php?p=994226&postcount=55
Activator
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1005483&postcount=65
str8burbon
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1264866&postcount=5
06xc6spd4x4
My advice at minimum is to read these three posts, print out the one by 06xc6spd4x4 (because it's the most current) and keep it with you as you’re installing. I noted a few minor changes in the system since that was written.
For reference these posts come from these three threads:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t102133.html
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t137805.html
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t147559.html
They have more good info here and there, but most of the meat is in the three posts above.
My experience:
Someone described the Dynalock as “ghetto fab”. That term echoed in my mind throughout the install. It’s appropriate.
These numbers correspond to the Dynalock instructions and the post by 06xc6spd4x4.
1) The tailgate interior cover has a “peg” at the top/center that you’ll have to pull up on to get the cover out. Not difficult. Also don’t leave the torx screws in the bed of the truck when you go to get electrical connectors. I only lost one of the smaller ones. They cost $1.14 at the dealer.
2) One of the “ghetto fab” issues is that everyplace Dynolock stripped the wires it looks like this:
![Image]()
Because of this issue I cut and restripped all the wires. I couldn’t find bullet connectors to match so I used these on the connection between the actuator and short harness:
![Image]()
![Image]()
I would just solder some good connectors on this one if I had it to do over again. I used these and it was effective but soldering and heat shrink would probably be better.
3) It is a 10mm socket.
4) My bolt and spacer worked without modification. I was very disappointed in the fact that the actuator installs with a single bolt. It is shaped and sized to “friction fit” in place but it just seems to hang there. I put a piece of rubber stall mat (for horses) about ¾” thick under the other side to support it and secured that with a screw (just into the rubber - not the tailgate).
![Image]()
![Image]()
5) As someone else has mentioned, but wasn’t clear to me in the instructions, the assembly order is supposed to be, tailgate, spacer, actuator, lock washer, bolt.
6) You’ll have to wait until you get the unit working to make final adjustments. It’s definitely got some fiddle factor to it. If you don’t have it aligned right the actuator may not deploy correctly which can cause the unit not to lock or interfere with the opening mechanism to the extent that the handle won’t release the tailgate latches whether or not it is locked.
7) See the post by 06xc6spd4x4.
8) Because the connectors had to be changed I used these:
![Image]()
The pic shows the blue one demonstrated, but the red is the right size. I’m crimp connector challenged (http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t182861.html) but these seemed to work OK. You want to be able to disconnect this so you could remove the tailgate if needed. This is the point where you'll need to be able to reverse the connection if you lock works backwards (unlocks when it's supposed to lock) so make sure that you can switch the wires if needed.
9) Double cab – use the drivers side if you want, but I recommend tying into the wires for the rear door so your tailgate doesn’t lock/unlock with the front drivers door. Regular/Access cab- run the wire along the taillight harness on the passenger side. This will set things up so that the tailgate lock works with the passenger door.
10) See the post by 06xc6spd4x4 for good tips on removing the interior panels. You have to remove the door sill one first. Then the kick plate. I also did no drilling on the truck itself. This is the body plug I used. It worked great.
![Image]()
![Image]()
I drilled a 3/16” hole through the center of this body plug.
![Image]()
The wire went directly through that – I didn’t use the supplied grommet at all. This option is suggested in the updated instructions. The fit is so tight I think silicone sealant is overkill – but it couldn’t hurt.
![Image]()
Once inside the cab (Access) run the wires to the channel under the door sill protector (already removed).
11) I don’t know why they send the blue tap splicers. Everyone uses red. I got mine at radio shack.
![Image]()
The correct wires are blue/black stripe & blue/pink stripe.
![Image]()
![Image]()
Not sure which does which. On my truck the Blue/Pink is connected to the white wire on the long harness, white wire on the short harness, and finally to the blue wire on the actuator. It works fine.
![Image]()
(Note: for a cleaner install run the new wire through the conduit below the connection BEFORE you make your connection)
12) See the post by 06xc6spd4x4. Good advice. Also note that when you unlock your Tacoma with the keyless entry if you don't open a door in 30sec they all relock. I thought I'd really screwed something up and spent another hour debugging until I realized what was happening.
13) Just press on the clips and the interior panels snap right back in.
I hope this is of some value. I'm very happy with the function of the Dynolock. A little more attention to detail and a more secure mount and I'd have NO reservations about it at all. As is I still wish I'd tried to get a group buy going. Install is not difficult but took a couple of hours.
I'm sure there are a few inaccuracies in this post. Feel free to point them out and I'll edit.
TL
It dawned on me that others might appreciate having all this info in one place so I thought I’d post this. As I was getting ready, I also wished there were more pics available – so I took some and will post them too.
Some of this may be of value to someone considering another type of tailgate lock, but the Dynalock is the only one I have experience with.
Disclamer: 99%+ of this info came from those who did this before me. Special thanks especially to Activator, str8burbon, & 06xc6spd4x4. I will try to add to what they (and others) put together.
Here goes.
This is the dynolock web site:
http://www.dynolock.com
I chose the standard actuator model ($70) here:
http://www.dynolock.com/tota20wac1.html
There is also a heavier duty high security actuator model ($100)
This video shows the lock in action:
http://site.dynolock.com/installation/toyota05/TAC05C_rev.swf
You will get a copy of these instructions:
http://site.dynolock.com/installation/toyota05/tta05_instr.htm
Some have reported effective assistance when calling Jim at Dynolock 888-396-6562. I didn’t need to do this but it’s worth knowing.
MUST READ POSTS:
These three give you all the info you need. Each builds on the other and takes into account the changes Dynalock has incorporated.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showpost.php?p=994226&postcount=55
Activator
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1005483&postcount=65
str8burbon
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1264866&postcount=5
06xc6spd4x4
My advice at minimum is to read these three posts, print out the one by 06xc6spd4x4 (because it's the most current) and keep it with you as you’re installing. I noted a few minor changes in the system since that was written.
For reference these posts come from these three threads:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t102133.html
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t137805.html
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t147559.html
They have more good info here and there, but most of the meat is in the three posts above.
My experience:
Someone described the Dynalock as “ghetto fab”. That term echoed in my mind throughout the install. It’s appropriate.
These numbers correspond to the Dynalock instructions and the post by 06xc6spd4x4.
1) The tailgate interior cover has a “peg” at the top/center that you’ll have to pull up on to get the cover out. Not difficult. Also don’t leave the torx screws in the bed of the truck when you go to get electrical connectors. I only lost one of the smaller ones. They cost $1.14 at the dealer.
2) One of the “ghetto fab” issues is that everyplace Dynolock stripped the wires it looks like this:
Because of this issue I cut and restripped all the wires. I couldn’t find bullet connectors to match so I used these on the connection between the actuator and short harness:
I would just solder some good connectors on this one if I had it to do over again. I used these and it was effective but soldering and heat shrink would probably be better.
3) It is a 10mm socket.
4) My bolt and spacer worked without modification. I was very disappointed in the fact that the actuator installs with a single bolt. It is shaped and sized to “friction fit” in place but it just seems to hang there. I put a piece of rubber stall mat (for horses) about ¾” thick under the other side to support it and secured that with a screw (just into the rubber - not the tailgate).
5) As someone else has mentioned, but wasn’t clear to me in the instructions, the assembly order is supposed to be, tailgate, spacer, actuator, lock washer, bolt.
6) You’ll have to wait until you get the unit working to make final adjustments. It’s definitely got some fiddle factor to it. If you don’t have it aligned right the actuator may not deploy correctly which can cause the unit not to lock or interfere with the opening mechanism to the extent that the handle won’t release the tailgate latches whether or not it is locked.
7) See the post by 06xc6spd4x4.
8) Because the connectors had to be changed I used these:
The pic shows the blue one demonstrated, but the red is the right size. I’m crimp connector challenged (http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t182861.html) but these seemed to work OK. You want to be able to disconnect this so you could remove the tailgate if needed. This is the point where you'll need to be able to reverse the connection if you lock works backwards (unlocks when it's supposed to lock) so make sure that you can switch the wires if needed.
9) Double cab – use the drivers side if you want, but I recommend tying into the wires for the rear door so your tailgate doesn’t lock/unlock with the front drivers door. Regular/Access cab- run the wire along the taillight harness on the passenger side. This will set things up so that the tailgate lock works with the passenger door.
10) See the post by 06xc6spd4x4 for good tips on removing the interior panels. You have to remove the door sill one first. Then the kick plate. I also did no drilling on the truck itself. This is the body plug I used. It worked great.
I drilled a 3/16” hole through the center of this body plug.
The wire went directly through that – I didn’t use the supplied grommet at all. This option is suggested in the updated instructions. The fit is so tight I think silicone sealant is overkill – but it couldn’t hurt.
Once inside the cab (Access) run the wires to the channel under the door sill protector (already removed).
11) I don’t know why they send the blue tap splicers. Everyone uses red. I got mine at radio shack.
The correct wires are blue/black stripe & blue/pink stripe.
Not sure which does which. On my truck the Blue/Pink is connected to the white wire on the long harness, white wire on the short harness, and finally to the blue wire on the actuator. It works fine.
(Note: for a cleaner install run the new wire through the conduit below the connection BEFORE you make your connection)
12) See the post by 06xc6spd4x4. Good advice. Also note that when you unlock your Tacoma with the keyless entry if you don't open a door in 30sec they all relock. I thought I'd really screwed something up and spent another hour debugging until I realized what was happening.
13) Just press on the clips and the interior panels snap right back in.
I hope this is of some value. I'm very happy with the function of the Dynolock. A little more attention to detail and a more secure mount and I'd have NO reservations about it at all. As is I still wish I'd tried to get a group buy going. Install is not difficult but took a couple of hours.
I'm sure there are a few inaccuracies in this post. Feel free to point them out and I'll edit.
TL
