2) There is only 1 bulb for the heater controls. Either the socket connection is bad or the bulb' filement is bad.

3) Check the bulb socket. The contacts melt and cause a bad connection. Or it could simply be a bad bulb.

 

The dome light might be coming apart. The metal contact strips are riveted to the plastic shell, and the plastic shell melts from the heat of the light and shrinks back, loosening the tension on those rivets, and breaking the circuit to the light bulb.

 

i basically found out how to read the fault codes properly, so i will probably do that soon
(have to bridge E1+Te2 first and then drive around a bit over 10km/h, and then bridge E1+Te1 on top of that, after stopping and ignition on)

 

I'd check for loose and corroded ground points in the engine bay.

Also check the brake pedal switch to verify you don't have any damaged wiring.

For the dome light, you need to replace the rivets with machine screws.

The socket to the right rear tail light could be going bad or the bulb is not properly seated.

My bulb in my HVAC unit in my 06 Corolla would not turn on when I turn on the parking light or headlights. If I hit it, it would turn on. The bulb was bad and I just replaced it. Now it's working again with the switch.

 

the rear light was probably fixed with a new bulb, so that was like a 3rd bulb already on the same exact car that only started to work after some fist pumping lol (never seen such a thing before lol).

the ground wire on the left side looks like this tho:

https://www.upload.ee/image/12167913/wire1.jpg

and it seems to go into the transmission(plus 1 directly from the battery itself):

https://www.upload.ee/image/12167914/wire2.jpg

(1 weak point might be inside the connector also?)

the oily part near the fuel rail:

https://www.upload.ee/image/12167915/wire3.jpg

right side strut wire:

https://www.upload.ee/image/12167916/wire4.jpg

why are all of the wires so thin tho and are they even original?

plus the main issue was probably with the battery connectors themselves - when i brushed the wire terminal on the negative wire a bit, it blew off some weird dust all the time, so that probably caused some connection issues also... and it would actually explain why the dimming symptoms were even worse with a new battery - it just stood on the grass without any battery on it for atleast 2-3 years... (i can check the result when it gets darker in the evening tho)

 

Your ground wire has corrosion. Need to dexoit

 

The dust is from battery acid leaking out and reacting with the lead terminals.

The ground wires look original and about the size I'd expect.

 

seems like it got much better after cleaning the battery terminal, so i guess i just have to find a better brush to clean it again to get all of the dust off from it...
and i guess i could also use the metal sponge from the kitchen to do it?

 

I use baking soda and water. Use a stiff bristle tooth brush to apply. It should be a paste when the mix is done.

Coca cola also works.

 

They make a tool for cleaning the battery terminals and clamps. Surely, there's something like this available in Estonia?

Battery Terminal Cleaner

Amazing deals on this Battery Terminal Cleaner at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

 

we probably have that, but i basically just cleaned the negative clamp then.
1 more issue tho:
sometimes the odometer stops working and displays that same number for dunno how long? (until i push in the reset rod and then it starts working from zeros again)

 

Does the odometer get stuck at 99.9? That's what mine did and it happened to others. I was able to fix mine by very carefully gluing a little broken plastic piece back in place where the gears on the odometer are. I'll have to dig up some pictures.

 

i cant remember the last number, but this time it was 470 and i think that it is quite random and not the exact same number, just the same number where it gets stuck at...

 

My '93 seemed to not like it when I reset the trip odometer while the car was moving, and it would hang up and get stuck sometimes. But when I would reset it while the car was stopped, and give it a good solid push, (but not a hard hit) it would work fine.

I haven't noticed any issues with my '97.

 

it got stuck again after i had reset it while driving, so i just reset it again while standing and that maybe fixed it a bit (have to test it further later on)

but i'm probably going to do some compression tests soon, so i wonder if i have to disconnect the Ecu also somehow before carrying it out and where is it even located?

 

Don't disconnect the ECU itself. It should be OK to just pull the ECU relay.

 

ok, but the Ecu relay is the Head relay, and what is the Engine Main relay? i did some code reading and now gonna do the compression stuff when the engine cools down a bit..

 

I can online go by what the wiring diagram for my cars says.
Head relay is for healights.
Engine Main Relay is for radiator/condenser cooling fans.

 

ok, so the Ecu relay is somewhere below the steering wheel?
but where is the Heater bulb located, so that i could replace it... and i think i didnt replace the fuel gauge bulb either the last time and now it has gone bad since dunno when already... so i guess it actually is better to just replace them all in 1 go afterall...

 

The HVAC light bulb is in a plastic diffuser behind the ribbon that shows position and temp setting. If I remember correctly, it's a 74 bulb. I replaced mine with an LED awhile back it doesn't illuminate evenly. Don't replace the low fuel light bulb with an LED, I believe it causes issues but I forget what. The 3 main bulbs that light the instrument panel at night are 194 bulbs and can be replaced with LEDs if you want.

 

2 more issues:

4) it probably doesnt want to put it in reverse gear unless i release the clutch pedal and then press it again
5) it keeps pulling to the left when i press on the brake pedal

 

2 more issues:

1) it probably doesnt want to put it in reverse gear unless i release the clutch pedal and then press it again
2) it keeps pulling to the left when i press on the brake pedal

1) How is the transmission fluid, and is it full? Is the slave cylinder leaking at all?

2) This could be a sticking brake caliper. I'd check the condition of the brake fluid and brake lines. Might even bleed the brakes and see if everything is operating properly as you do it.

 

well.. some places also suggest the Ngk 5eya plugs, but the original drawings say that it should be Denso K16RU?
and it's cross-reference says that it actually is 5eya, not 6eya? (pus that Ngk 2087 that pops up everywhere)

spark plug cross reference

www.sparkplug-crossreference.com

and transmission oil could be somekind of Api GL-5 or 4, Sae 75(or 80)w-90, 2,4L? and does it have some easy place where the drain plug is?
(it also has a little crack/hole in the bottom, but i'm not sure how deep that goes lol)

 

well, i probably have to go with the 5eya ones because they didnt have any 16ru plugs in stock, but does this U-groove even work as advertised?

https://japansparkplugs.com/boutique/1471-thickbox_default/1x-k16ru.jpg

the 2 separate sparks could help burn the fuel a bit better tho?

and the replacement w16tt even has a bump instead of the groove and has 20.6mm hex with some Rc terminal, plus isn't even any iridium at all?

NICKEL TT - Specifications | Products | SPARK PLUG | Automotive Service Parts and Accessories | DENSO Global Website

This spark plug features a ‘twin tip’ - a thin centre and a protruding ground electrode both 1.5mm in diameter - which enhances the ignitability of your car. The faster you start your car, the more petrol you save! With better performance at a lower cost, experience a smooth and superior ride...

www.denso.com

and some more issues ofc:
6) the key doesnt even turn the front passenger door lock at all?
7) i can pull the key out from the ignition when the car is running?

 

Problems 6 and 7 most likely have to do with the tumblers in the lock. For #7, they're probably worn out (as is the key). I have the same issue with my driver's door lock. I'm going to try a graphite powder to see if it helps alleviate any sticking issues. You could probably use a silicone or solid film lubricant as well.

 

The key not turning might also be a broken spring in the latch. If that's the case, then the lock button on the inside of the door should be impossible to move.

 

4) so here is the gearbox crack, but is it deep enough at all or why/how is it even there?

https://www.upload.ee/image/12271785/transa1.jpg

the coolant droplets might be from the last radiator/thermostat leak, because i probably took the pic some time ago...
P.S. where is the slave cylinder?

 

well... how smooth does the brake disc have to be? because the right side seems to have some rust dents in them and recently it started to wobble around a bit(after some 'harder' braking) and now it even started to clunk over any small bump(after some 'harder' braking again) and the wobble is also still there...
wobble = like something thumps after every rotation, altho based on the car's speed, it sounds more like after every 3-4 rotations lol

 

Either your rotors are warped or the rotor was not installed correctly.

 

well, the wobble/thump thing maybe just comes from the rusty rotor then? because it does have like big rusty craters on the rotor itself - and thats probably only right side.
and left side probably has like some deep grooves going across the whole surface, basically just in a smaller radius than the rotor edge itself...

so i wonder if i need some new rotors too, because otherwise it will ruin the new pads again?:s
the inner right pad might actually be completely worn out also.... and are there any piston repair kits also available? because the outer part of both pistons are kinda rusty and stuff... altho i'm not sure how deep does it actually go.... and the right side maybe just has the thin pad issue, and not a stuck piston issue?

not really sure where did the sharp clunking sound over the bumps came tho.... and why does the left side have those deep grooves then... it basically looks like 'it has' somekind of sporty calipers and then both of it's pistons just rub against the rotor lol... while the piston itself actually looks really big and those grooves are only like 3-4mm wide