Engine cranks but won't start

nesta89 · Mar 27, 2023

I have a 2010 Toyota Corolla (1.8L engine) with 140000 miles on it. Was driving fine no major issue. Last week came to work and wasn't able to start it since.

It will crank but won't start, as you crank it and press on gas you can hear the engine revving (but RPM stay at 0).
Checked with OCD scanner no codes, no check engine light
Battery normal, tried to start with jump cables to my other car -- not starting
Check coils and spark there (changed spark plugs at 90000)
Doesn't sound like a starter or alternator problem

A couple of abnormalities I discovered:

I don't hear the fuel pump running when I turn the key to ON or try to start. Checked the power at the fuel pump with voltmeter and it gets 12V.
Checked all the fuses in the engine compartment and at driver seat. All have continuity/resistance.

But in the engine compartment fuse box EFI NO2 and EFI NO1 have no power even when key is at ON position. But when someone is trying to start the car both EFI NO.2 and EFI NO.1 start showing ~ 4-5 Volts. (is this normal? or also part of the problem?)
- Radiator fan turns on when key at ON position and keeps running until I take the key out. The engine is cold since it is not starting for almost a week, why would a fan turn on?

The bottom point is the reason I didn't go ahead and just changed the fuel pump, because it sounds like some kind of an electrical issue/relay issue.
Is it possible that the fuel pump is getting the power but no signal to turn on from the relay/car computer and that's why I don't hear that it's working.

I'll really appreciate any advice or help in fixing this issue.

Thank you.

kenny-bob · Mar 27, 2023

It does appear to be an electrical problem with the low system voltage on those EFI fuses.
What is the age and condition of the 12V battery? Are the terminals clean or corroded?
Put a charger on the battery to get it fully charged and eliminate that as a culprit.

Pressing the gas pedal while cranking is from old days with carbs, not needed or done with fuel injection.
Does the starter motor turn over while cranking? i have no idea what you mean about zero rpm except the engine is not running.

The 15 A EFI 1 fuse should have system voltage on it all the time; 7.5A EFI 2 only gets powered up after the EFI Relay gets energized from the Engine Control Module ECM.

Check the fuses in the fusible link block coming off the battery positive terminal.

The fuel pump relay (OPN relay) gets power from the key switch IG2, then gets energized by the ECM; the EFI Relay must get energized by the ECM to pass power to the fuel pump thru the EFI 1 fuse and to the OPN relay.

So your relays need to be checked as well as the fuses.

jimaustin247 · Jan 20, 2025

Thanks so much for your help. I have already replaced the starter relay behind the radio and I thought I had it. The starter keeps running after key release and I and not getting power to fuel pump.im hoping another fuse has failed and I'll be checking on it tomorrow. I replaced the battery cables and 2 of the ground straps. I even went as far as running a new ground from the head to the (-) battery post. Thanks again and I might let you know when It's finally running again, if you don't mind.

nesta89 · Mar 27, 2023

The battery is not that old, when I check with voltmeter it shows 12.4 volts. That’s the first thing I did, I cleaned the battery terminals and connections.

The starter is turning when I try to start it.

Those two EFI fuses on my car are 10A, don’t know if that’s make a difference or the principle is the same. I will try to check the relays as well, from my research OPN relay in 2010 Corolla is not reachable and inside the fuse box (the one left lower side of dash)

kenny-bob · Mar 27, 2023

Fuse values could be different, but the principle is the same.

12.4 is a worn out or weak battery, definitely not fully charged. A lead acid battery needs to be kept fully charged all the time or it will be permanently damaged due to sulfation of the plates.

You will likely need a factory wiring diagram to trace it all out. Looks like that OPN relay is a PIA and not easily accessed.

What is your level of knowledge, skills, tools and ability at troubleshooting automotive electrical systems?

A basic overall check of connectors for corrosion or damage, plus wiring inspection for broken or rodent damage would help eliminate that as a culprit. Sometimes a gentle tapping with the handle of a screwdriver can dislodge a stuck relay.

Engine cranks but won't start

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