Interesting article about that scenario.

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With the engine off or no battery power connected to the EVAP VSV, it's going to be off and air won't pass.

You can test the EVAP VSV by removing the rubber hose on the canister side. Run the engine and you should hear loud vacuum sounds as the VSV cycles. If it sounds too wimpy, then it might not be flowing enough. Either a new VSV or try carefully if you can pry open the tabs holding a plastic cap and then clean/lube the plunger. Be careful not to break the tabs or you'll need a new VSV.

If you hear pressure sound when removing the gas cap then that part should be ok. I'd first focus on the EVAP VSV by the air filter as it's a problematic part. Then clear the codes by pulling the blue EFI fuse in the fuse box nearby for 1 minute.

 

Thanks.

I did not hear or feel any vacuum sounds from the VSV at idle.

I couldn't find a YouTube video on how to disassemble the EVAP VSV, but I found one where he sprayed penetrating oil down the vacuum hose and claimed that worked. Here's a link to the video:

I just tried it twice in my EVAP VSV, but there was still no suction exiting it.

 

You should hear it shortly after startup at idle. Or you can verify again by letting it run a little longer so the engine temperature rises to operating temp, and also try increasing the rpm a bit to 1000-1500. You might want to put a volt meter at the connector to see if you actually get voltage there when the VSV is supposed to be cycling.

If you remove the throttle body side of the hose, you'll hear the loud vacuum sound I was referring to. If not, then check for plugged port in the throttle body. That's the level of noise you need to hear. If not, yeah, double check on that VSV. It's probably bad.

Once you get the new VSV, test it first. Once everything is working, try disassembling the old VSV to learn.

 

P.S. Yes you can try doing that. What I did was take the plunger out, wipe it clean and q-tip the bore with alcohol and put a drop of motor oil on the plunger and clamp it back down. I think what happened was some carbon debris got between the plunger and its bore, causing it to stick.

Just don't spark when you're using aerosol cleaner or oil!

 

Thanks. Did your EVAP VSV click before you cleaned it?

 

Can't remember for sure. I think the suction was really wimpy before vs after.

The coil only creates a magnetic field, and I guess the plunger is magnetic (I've never checked). So when the coil creates a field, the plunger moves in the bore, therefore opening/closing the VSV. And in this particular VSV, it's normally closed.

 

If needed the p/n is 25860-74050 ( double check) $75-$80 bucks thru Toyota.
Third party loke Dorman are less than $50.
My local salvage yards won't sell just the VSV, you hvae to buy the entire canister and no guarantee the VSV will work, they start at $75. Just options.

 

The purge Evap is by the air filter housing, and may be the 90080-91203, about $67.

I'd just get the $34 WVE. WVE is an aftermarket brand of NGK/NTK. Double check the application, the part changed 1999/Aug production date.

More Information for WELLS 2M1468

 

Thanks, sdspeed and JohnGD. I'm picking up the VSV later this afternoon and will install it early this evening.

Once I remove the old VSV, is it safe to apply 12 volts to it to test for clicking? Ditto with the new VSV?

Also, I haven't found any YouTube videos on disassembling the VSV. It looks like there are metal claws on each side of the bracket that need to be squeezed to remove the bracket. Is that right? Once that bracket is removed, are there tabs/clips on the VSV itself that I just need to loosen?

 

Yes you can apply 12v directly. You might want to use a volt meter at that connector to see if 12v is pulsed there.

You only need to pry on the little fingers/tabs on the port cap end. Nothing needs to be done to the large, flat U-shaped piece of metal that wraps around the body of the VSV.

Depending on the version, you either have 4 single fingers near each corner to pry back, or those Y-shaped fingers through the plate. Either way they work the same - holding down the port cap on that end. Once the fingers/tabs are loosened, the cap just drops (unless they revised it and ultrasonically sealed it).

 

I removed it and applied 12 volts; no clicking.

My EVAP VSV looks like this:

https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/90910-12271-177x300.jpg

except that it has only two of those fingers on either side.

I am unable to loosen them.

 

Update. After I replaced the EVAP VSV, I reset the check engine light. After driving 139 miles, the CEL went on again, showing P0440, P0441, and P0446.

In the engine bay, the EVAP hoses look intact (one is new when I replaced the VSV).

The gas cap's o-ring is intact.

What do I look at next?

Also, how many miles does it take for the EVAP code to get triggered?

Thanks

 

VSV on the charcoal canister behind the rear axel is what cured my codes. An Aisin brand is about $35.

 

Thanks. The closest part I could find there is an EVAP fuel tank pressure sensor. Do you mean the EVAP fuel tank pressure sensor?

 

Double check but this should be the current VSV on the canister. ToyoDIY.com

90910-12264 - Vapor Canister Purge Solenoid 2000-2005 Toyota | Ourisman Toyota Parts

Save Money On Your Vapor Canister Purge Solenoid (9091012264) For Your 2000-2005 Toyota When You Shop With Ourisman Toyota Parts!

toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com

 

Thanks. Is there a way I can test the existing part (can't find the normal values for resistance) before replacing it?

Also, if I reset the CEL and the repair didn't solve the problem, after how many miles does the EVAP code get tripped?

 

May help!

How should I test my VSV valve?

I've got a 1999 Camry and recently have my check engine light come on with a code p0401. I think I've narrowed the issue down to the VSV valve, but I want to make sure that I'm testing it correctly before going out and buying a replacement. If I blow into either one of the tubes, no air at all...

www.toyotanation.com

 

Thanks. That's for the EGR VSV with P0401. I'm having an EVAP VSV issue, P0440, P0441, and P0446.

 

Without the repair manual I don't know where you'd get the test values.

 

I went to parts.toyota.com > CARS > CAMRY > 2000 > found a 2.2 LE.
Then ENGINE > VACUUM PIPING > View More Images > 3rd image > 25860A (VENT valve, or VSV for Vapor Pressure Sensor).

Based on the dates, I am not sure a 2000 can really still have 90910-12271. But it is listed along with 90910-12264, so you want to double check (enter your VIN on parts.toyota.com and/or look at your actual VSV).


If you have the old 90910-12271, searching for it on RockAuto shows that Aisin VST012 may be the best choice (probably OEM?).

If you have the new 90910-12264 (more likely), searching for it on RockAuto shows that maybe you want WVE 2M1257, based on the reasoning for picking WVE 2M1468 previously?


As for testing (these are the top two results on Youtube after searching "camry p0446"), this is for the old 90910-12271:

This is for the new 90910-12264 (also, he talked about removal starting at around 3:00):

There used to be "1999 Toyota Camry Factory Service Repair Manual" floating around. This is what it (SFI.pdf page 45) shows for testing VSV for EVAP (i.e., WVE 2M1468 previously).

For the old 90910-12271, without power, if you blow air into the center port, air should come out the farthest port; with power, air should come out the port next to the center port. For the new 90910-12264 (not in the 1999 manual), because it only has two ports, one would expect it to work like the VSV for EVAP?

However, sorry to say this, I am not sure testing is that important. Sure, if the old VSV does not click at all, then you know it's bad. But what if it clicks, how does one know if it's sticky or leaks a little. It seems one would still proceed to replace it anyway before the charcoal canister. (It's like with P0401, one basically just proceeds to replace parts starting with the easiest/cheapest.)


More info, but it sounds like you have already checked the hoses.

Replacing VSV to the Vapor Pressure Sensor on the...

I am getting P0441 even after installing new Vapor Canister

 

There used to be "1999 Toyota Camry Factory Service Repair Manual" floating around. This is what it (SFI.pdf page 45) shows for testing VSV for EVAP (i.e., WVE 2M1468 previously).

Go here: https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInf...uthn_try_count=0&locale=en_US&resource_url=https%3A%2F%2Ftechinfo.toyota.com%2F

For $20.00 you will be given 2 Day Access to all Toyota User/Shop/Electrical factory manuals for any year/make/model.

.

 

Thanks.

I just found the rear EVAP canister purge/ VSV solenoid that is attached to the charcoal canister and above the rear axle. There seems to be a screw that holds that it to the canister. I don't have a screwdriver small enough to fit in there. Is there a way to remove that sensor without having to remove the charcoal canister?

 

I think I cut that screw off with a Dremel. Zip tie can reattach the new sensor.

Usually when P0446 is triggered because of a faulty VSV, it is the VSV at the charcoal canister. Toyota calls it the "VSV for vapor pressure sensor". Some dealership or other shops will tell you you have to replace the entire canister, just to get that VSV replaced because the sensor didn't used to be available alone but now it is.

 

AFAIK, EVAP is a two-trip code. So the problem had to occur twice to the computer for the code and light to set. If you scan it before the light comes on, you might see a hidden code in there. And you might see less than all three that showed up, dunno. If so it might also tell you something.

How did the new VSV cycle? Do you hear loud vacuum sounds as it cycles?

You can connect 12v to the old VSV and use a straw, PCV tubing, or compressed air to blow through it. Don't use your mouth on car parts.

Do you have pressure build up that you notice when removing the gas tank cap?

 

Thanks.

I got the wrong part, so I had to go back to the store to get the correct part. I just installed it. I had to use a Zip Tie, because that tiny screw securing it. I got your post after I installed the new one, so I didn't test it.

I stuck a cotton swab on both vacuum ends, then tested the old one, a Denso brand. It clicked when 12 volts applied, but no air passed. What causes that? Does this VSV's failure indicate that there are other components likely to fail?

 

Could be some charcoal from the cannister but most likely corrosion. At least that's what was blocking mine. What matters is if it clears the code. Its a 20+ year old car. There will always be the potential for other things to fail but most are easy to diagnose and repair.