Your powertrain warranty goes to 60,000

The Toyota warranty is good if you can get a good deal on it like Toby at Shreveport and a few other dealers are doing (can no longer do it by email).
There is no information online because Toyota does not allow the warranties to be sold online and allows the dealer to set the price.

The standard rates are a ripoff. The dealer *can* sell for half list price and still make a profit.

 

Other thoughts ...

I think Toby was selling the extended full-coverage zero deductible 8-year/125K warranty for around $1200.

Just a powertrain warranty should be less.

That said - I've never had an engine or a transmission or a drive-axle fail on a car at more than 60K and less than 100K miles - so it is very unlikely you will use this.

i.e. if the CVT blows up at 59K, it is covered. If it blows up at 101K, the warranty expired anyway. (And if you sell the car before 100K, I'm not sure if the warranty is transferable, but it won't be a benefit to you anymore).

I have had A/C Compressors, window motors, fuel pumps, sensors, door locks, etc. fail between 36K and 100K so ... the complete warranty is more likely to be used, if you would be interested in that.

Final advice is by the correct warranty for you time and usage - i.e. at 15K miles per year, 72-months/100K miles would be about right for you. 5-years/100K miles would be cheaper, but you will be out of the warranty before you use up the OEM warranty. 8-years/100K miles would be more expensive, but you would likely put 100K miles on the car before you reach that.

 

Just remember that those "warranties" are actually insurances. As such, it might give you peace of mind but their main purpose is to charge globally more than expected cost of repairs.
They are designed with variable conditions, deductibles and limitations to do so. Hence, the variety of plans and cost.
Not all of them are from manufacturers. Dealers often offers some from private companies (getting a commission).
Of course, if your car encounter a problem, you'll be glad to have it (but remember, as mentioned, that your power train warranty is still valid up to 60,000 miles).
Common wisdom is to read carefully the small prints and evaluate your own tolerance to "risk" : "insuring" yourself by setting aside X amount of money per month.
With that option, you have money aside in case of problem or you recuperate all of it if not, which is not the case with an insurance.
Keeping that in mind will help you evaluate the offers on the market.

 

My CVT was replaced two years ago when the car had only 900 miles on it. I am just paranoid that after my 60k power-train warranty ends I will have problems again with my transmission.

 

I am from GA and originally bought the extended warranty with my car, from the dealership that I purchased the car from. After doing some reading, I learned that I got MAJORLY ripped off by my dealership, and found out about some dealers that sell the ToyotaCare extended warranty closer to "dealer-cost". They're still making a profit, but not AS much.

The only way to buy an out-of-state warranty is to go there in person. Luckily I had a work trip to Kansas, and went to Hutchinson and met Jerry Johnson. SUPER helpful and responsive guy, and I got the warranty and a few weeks later got the official ToyotaCare package in the mail. I'm 100% covered for 8yrs / 125k, and if I remember right the entire thing was $1,200.

Well worth it in my book!

 

Could happen.

I might have lemon-lawed or sold the car if the CVT was replaced at 900 miles.

What we are saying though ...

Let's assume the powertrain coverage is $800 (it shouldn't be more than that, IMHO).

The replacement CVT has now gone 30K miles (hopefully with no issues).

If it goes another 70K miles and fails (and the engine does also), you spent $800 and got no benefit from it (except peace-of-mind).

If it fails in the next 29K miles - it will be replaced whether or not you have the warranty and then you only benefit if the replacement one fails in 40-60K miles.

Now, if it fails after 60K and before 100K miles - you will be happy you got the coverage, but that will be at least 2-years from now, there will be 4-years of Corolla CVT's in the boneyards, and if needed, it will be easier to drop a used CVT in your car. It will cost more than $800 and it won't be like getting a new transmission, but ...

Personally - I've always bought the long-term extended zero deductible complete warranty on my Fords for around $1500-$1800 and I've usually at least broken even - but sometimes just barely.

To me, though - the comprehensive warranty is a better deal - just for peace-of-mind and avoiding the hassles - i.e.

If I don't have the extended warranty and my car won't start ... I either have to tow it to my mechanic and let him diagnose it and repair it at $75-100 per hour. Or I have to get out the shop manual - it could be Sensor A. Still won't start, could be Sensor B - still won't start. Could by the fuel pump - BINGO - starts, but I'm out $250 and have some sensors I didn't need on the car now.

Now - If I have the extended powertrain warranty - I tow the car to the shop. They charge me a $150 diagnostic fee. If the engine is seized, I get a rental car, get a new engine, and drive home and they refund my $150. If it was the fuel pump, that isn't covered, so I pay my $150 plus $250 for the part, plus probably $200 labor, and I'm home for $600.

Now - if I have the extended comprehensive warranty with zero deductible - I tow the car to the shop. "$150 diagnostic fee - IF it isn't as warranty item" - whatever, everything on the car except hoses and weatherstrip and the battery are warranty items. "We thought it was Sensor A, but that didn't fix it." "Alright - I've still got your rental car - call me when you figure it out." "Turns out it was the fuel pump and that messed up the injectors and the MAF sensor, but it's fine now". "Okay - here's your rental car, glad to have my car back - I'm not out any money (except my initial $1500-$1800.)

I agree with Jolly - if you want to save every penny and would hate to spend more on a warranty than you do on repairs, you are better saving money aside and skipping the warranty. OTOH - on modern cars the warranty is nice piece of mind if you look at it as insurance - i.e. "I'm spending $1500. If the car needs more than $1500 in repairs, I made a wise decision. If the car needs $0 in repairs, I still know that I wouldn't have had to spend more than $1500 if it did break down).

 

There are ways around the out-of-state warranty rules as well.

For one thing - if it is just across the state line, or even if it isn't - it might be worth a plane ticket for the money you save.

Second - I don't know that you can't buy it from out-of-state. I had a dealer offer to sell me one after the policy changed, but I don't know how much Toyota is monitoring that or if they would do it now.

Lastly - if you know someone or have a relative in the state that you want to buy it from - fax or send them a copy of your drivers license and let them buy it for you.

I'm not sure that Toyota could prove that the salesman didn't physically meet with you.

Finally - I'm from GA also. Let's say the local dealer usually sells that warranty for $2,500 (typical). Worst case, I call Jerry he says "Love to sell to you, but can't do it unless you physically walk in the office". I can fly on Spirit for around $180 roundtrip and maybe $60 for a hotel room - so $1440. I can almost guarantee that if I call 10 local dealer and say "You sell the warranty for $2,500 - I can get it for $1,200 but I don't want to fly to Kansas - sell it to me for $1500 today" - at least ONE of them would be glad to do it.

 

Second - I don't know that you can't buy it from out-of-state. I had a dealer offer to sell me one after the policy changed, but I don't know how much Toyota is monitoring that or if they would do it now.

You can buy from out of state, you just can't buy over the net, by email, and not by phone.

Toby was doing all of the above and was gradually pinched out and can only do sales face to face. If you live in southeastern Texas, it's still worth the drive.
I do not know if the vehicle needs to be present.


And to add... IF you buy any policy other than the Toyota policy, be sure to read the fine print.
I [strike]bought[/strike] was talked into one for my '03 Tundra and it was NOT a Toyota policy.
In the fine print, any and all work had to be performed at a specific shop. This was a little independent garage in Santa Fe Springs... about 30 miles away. No exceptions... oil changes, tire rotation, etc....
Any work done DIY or by anyone else (including the dealer!) would void this POS policy.
I refunded THAT the next day.

When we bought the '04 Rav the next year, I made sure it was a Toyota policy.
We never used it

 

So if I where to get a extended toyota care warranty would it include toyota care tire rotations and oil changes like it did for the 1st 2 years/25k?... My dealer included a lifetime power train warranty with a 0 deductible (any shop) I purchased and comprehensive lifetime warranty with a 0/$100 deductible (0 in there shop 100 elceware) for $1800 I think it was a ok deal could have done better but oh well

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http://www.lifetimewarrantymyths.com/

Need to clarify a bit - https://www.toyotafinancial.com/pub...l.com/pub/w/planning_center/vehicle_protection_plans/vehicle_service_agreements

Toyota calls their extended warranties Vehicle Service Agreements.

They also offer prepaid maintenance plans - https://www.toyotafinancial.com/pub...w/planning_center/vehicle_protection_plans/toyota_auto_care_prepaid_maintenance - but the pre-paid maintenance plans are usually a huge rip-off - i.e. more than you would spend just buying individual oil changes and tire rotations at the dealer and much more than you would spend DIY or at an independent shop.

I've only bought the official manufacturer's warranty - but be careful with the other ones - as mentioned:

The dealer 200K mile 20-year one where you have to have all of the selling dealers (not the manufacturers) recommended service done at the selling dealer to keep the warranty in effect - you will pay enough in maintenance to them that they can afford to drop a new engine in for you if it fails.

A lot of the third party ones require work to be pre-approved, or you have to pay for the repair and submit a claim and hope they will honor it and re-imburse you, or they have limits on labor rates which are lower than the dealer charges, or they only pay the cost of the aftermarket replacement part and not the official part.

(Some of that isn't as bad as it sounds, since if I didn't have the official warranty, I would probably go to a cheaper shop than the dealer and use cheaper parts than the OEM anyway ...)

 

"Free" maintenance is not included in the service contracts.
It's not even included on leased vehicles beyond the first 24k.

Check the fine print on that $1800 service contract.
Toyota does not offer "lifetime" anything.
Be sure that there are no requirements that you have all of your maintenance done at the dealer (a 30k service is often quoted at $300+)
Toyota's longest service contract is 100k for 8 years, whichever comes first.

I do 100k in 4 years.

 

It's not from toyota it's from another company... Life time= long as me and or wife are alive or we sell the car
Only down side in fine print I could find that they won't pay for repair that are more than the car worth... Witch hopefully won't be a issue, as that clause is only in the comprehensive one and not the power train... Mainly got it for some peace of mind

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Sounds like a fair policy. $1800 is not bad amortized over 10 years and 200k.

 

Mine says I can have work done at any ASE certified shop
I can do my oil own changes as long as I keep recepts for the oil I bought
I will probly let my local toyota dealer (not the one I bought the car from) do the oil changes and tire rotations though. They charge about $70 for a oil change and $12 for a tire rotation. $70 seems like a lot but considering its 10k or 1 year it's not that bad

I still have 1 year or 17k left on my Toyota "bumper to bumper" and a bunch more on my Toyota power train... So it won't be for a wile until I have to use it. But if it goes like it says in the agreement it's all good. If it dosn't I'm going to buy a megaphone walk in to dealership I bought it from and announce my findings on there busiest day to everyone buying a car lok(it was really busy when we're there almost like a restaurant at lunch time)

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I can do my oil own changes as long as I keep recepts for the oil I bought

That's a problem right there.
I buy my filters in bulk... a box of 10 is about $40, so in 2020 at 100k I'm going to be using the last of a box of filters I bought in 2016.
Likewise for oil.
Once or twice a year, Costco puts Mobil-1 on sale... it's like $27 for a box of 6 quarts, limit 3 boxes.
I'll hit up 2 Costco's and buy 6 boxes... maybe not so much now with the Rav and Corolla being on 10k intervals, but that's still 2-3 oil changes a year for my Corolla... wife runs about 15k per year.

The receipts really don't prove anything other than you bought oil.
It doesn't prove that it actually went into the car when it was supposed to, you could have re-sold it to a friend.

Even in the owner's manual, Toyota says that they will NOT deny warranty service simply because you do not have receipts for service.
Honestly? They can tell when they open the engine if a failure was due to lack of maintenance.
But it does provide an easy out for 3rd party service contract providers.


HINT: Scan and print copies of your receipts. I've pulled receipts stored in my desk after several years and they are illegible... black thermal ink fades and the paper yellows.
Receipts stored in the glove box or garage? Blank paper in 6 months.

$70 seems like a lot but considering its 10k or 1 year it's not that bad

Not as bad as $70 every 3k, but consider you can buy 5qts of 0w20 M1 at Walmart for just under $30, and the OEM filter is $5....
Also, I don't know about your dealerships, but those around me, it's a 4-hour ordeal even with an appointment.

If it dosn't I'm going to buy a megaphone walk in to dealership I bought it from and announce my findings on there busiest day to everyone buying a car lok(it was really busy when we're there almost like a restaurant at lunch time)

Meh... all that will do is get you booted, possibly arrested for trespassing and a restraining order.
If you own guns, you do NOT want a restraining order. My boss went through that already.

 

I never understood the receipts for oil clauses either - but it's a common out - Pennzoil will warranty your engine for 1,000,000 miles if you only use their oil and have an oil related failure - but when has an engine had an oil related failure? Sludge from not changing the oil maybe, but I doubt they will say that qualifies as oil-related.

 

When I had the 2 year one done under toyota care with 6 days left lol... It only took about a hour and they had free popcorn so nice couldn't complain... Plus it gave me a chance to look at new cars on the lot and a couple of 14 corollas like mine to see if i got a good deal... Turns out I did

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To be honest - that is the whole reason for ToyotaCare. They really aren't that concerned with saving you from paying for oil changes, they hope that you will be bored at the dealer and walk over to the new car showroom and they can sell you another car.

 

True very true but I'm now broke as a joke after buying my corolla so I just get to look lol

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So I got a quote from my local Toyota dealer and for a 7 year 100,000 mile Power train warranty is $1,550

 

Mmmm. How many miles are you at now?

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$1550 is OUTRAGEOUS for a powertrain warranty.

I would expect to pay around $1500-1800 for the max 8-yr/125K zero duductible, platinum comprehensive warranty.

The $600 price on the RAV4 forum is for the platinum, no deductible warranty.

I would at least call Jerry at midwest or Toby at shreveport and see what they can do. Consider dealing with them by mail or take their offer to your local dealer(s) and try to get them within $200 or so of it ...

 

$1550 is OUTRAGEOUS for a powertrain warranty.

Particularly since it's only a 40k extension.

 

Alot of Toyota, Honda and Hyundai dealers around here offer a lifetime powertrain warranty included at no additional cost.

 

Yes - they do that around here also.

Typically it is either:

Self-funded by the dealer, so if the dealer goes out-of-business in 7 years when you need it, your are out of luck.

Won't exceed the value of the vehicle - so if you engine explodes at 200K miles, you get $500-$1000 from them and still need a new engine.

Are third party - so that you have to have work pre-approved and they only pay a fixed maximum labor rate.

Require you to have all work that the selling dealer recommends done at the selling dealer for $300 every 10K miles or so.

Or some combination of the above.

And other dealers offering it doesn't help the OP unless he is willing to trade in his car and he probably barely has any equity in it.

 

Right on!

Manufacturer insurances (“extended warranties”) at least offer you peace of mind, albeit for those “lucky enough to be unlucky” and needing to use it.
Their cost is established to be globally a safe bet for the company.

Third party one’s go the same path, but sometimes with less reputable supplier or more conditions, especially when a dealer doesn’t disclose the supplier.

“Lifetime powertrain” offered by some dealers are more of a low cost promotional item.
If ever needed, parts and services provided don’t cost anywhere close to consumer price to a dealer.
Some force you to the dealer (or some affiliated “authorised” shops) every 3-4 months.
In any case, the “lifetime” of the car is over when the cost of repairs is higher than the value of the car… Guess who establish both?

Even some manufacturers’ warranties aren’t free of conditions.
In Canada, Mazda now have 3 years / unlimited Km… as long as you respect 4 months service intervals. Plus an annual mandatory body inspection for rust…
Hyundai/Kia has 5 years bumper to bumper… forgetting some parts in between.
Not to mention they once had a reputation for discarding claims for odd reasons : to much city driving, low mileage use... (but not anymore, apparently)

 

I don't know if anyone is still reading this thread, but I wanted to jump in. I just bought my certified Corolla Memorial Day weekend and was talked into the extended warranty. To be honest, I've been second guessing things since. But today I finally received the package and now I'm not at all sure that I got a fair deal. I'd like some opinions.


I thought that I was getting 8 years/100,000 for $2500 from the day that I bought the car. Turns out that it actually started the day the car was originally sold (what the *bleep*?) So sitting here, only having had the car for some six weeks tops, I've already lost over two years and 36,000 miles of my extended warranty. The warranty seems okay...... it's zero deductible and it excludes things that are likely to have to be replaced like the brake pads, hoses and belt. But I fully get that this is like an insurance policy against bad and expensive things.


But here's the thing -- that's why I bought a Toyota in the first place. Yes, I understand that all cars breakdown. But the point of paying more for a Toyota was that it's reliable and has a reputation for running forever. And now I find out that I'm not getting the full value of what I thought I was paying for. (That point really bugs me.)


On the other hand, I don't want to be penny-wise and dollar-foolish. Even with losing two years off the top, I still have a good 5 years of coverage and that works out to be $500 per year. At least the car will be covered for major repairs while I'm paying it off. That's something not to be overlooked.


STILL! Is it common for these things to be back dated to when the car was originally sold? That just doesn't seem fair.

 

Still reading the thread.

Yes, that is typical. You are paying for 5-years of warranty and 64K of mileage - you get 3/36 with the car new or used.

It isn't QUITE as good a deal on a CPO, b/c you get 1-year/12K of btb from when you buy it and you get 7-years and 100K powertrain from original purchase, so you are only getting 1-additional year of powertrain if you don't drive much, but the powertrain is least likely to fail.

I think you paid WAY to much for the warranty - I think they are usually around $1500-$1700 for Toby or similar - $2500 from the dealer is typical, but overpriced.

You probably won't spend $2500 in repairs on the car, but the main point of the warranty is piece of mind.

Even if you DIY, modern cars are complex - for example, a high idle could be a vacuum leak or a IAC motor, or a TPS sensor, etc. If you don't have a warranty, you typically throw parts and dollars at it until the problem goes away. If you have the warranty, you drop the car off at the dealer, jump in a rental, and have them call you when they figure it out and get it fixed ...

 

I talked to the dealer today, and they told me that there's been a mistake. Basically, my extended warranty should start when I bought the car and existing mileage should not count against my 100,000 miles. So supposedly, the business manager is calling Toyota to get things fixed. If I sound like I don't believe him, it's because I'm starting to suspect that I'm getting the run around. You see, when I first bought the car, he said that someone would call me in a couple of weeks so that I could come back to sign things and I'd get the extended warranty info then. When that didn't happen, I followed up. And that time, he said that the extended warranty was coming from Toyota and that they were back logged. But it should arrive in a couple of weeks. A couple of weeks turned out to be more like a month, and now the actual documents don't say what I expected.


So where does this leave me? I'm going to call Toyota customer service tomorrow to see if he's made any effort to correct things. IF I get my full 96 months/100,000 miles, I'll be happier. It's still overpriced, but at that point the peace of mind factor will kick in and I can live with how things worked out. And if not, well, I may look into exercising the cancellation clause.

 

Frankly - I think the dealer is lying to you.

Assuming it is a Toyota (not third-party) extended warranty - it goes from the date of service.

But it's really not unfair ...

Not sure what your specific situation is, but ...

Let's say you bought the car new - you have the 3/36 BTB warranty and 5-100K powertrain warranty - and for $2500 the dealer will sell you an 8-year/100K warranty, which gives you another 5-years and 64K of coverage.

Now - I don't know your specifics, but I'm assuming you bought a 2014 with 36K miles. The original BTB warranty is over, but you get 12-months, 12K miles BTB and 7-years (5-remaining) and 100K (64K remaining) Powertrain warranty for buying CPO. The dealer will sell you a 8-year/100K warranty for $2500 - just like a new car, but it won't cover you until 2024 or 136K miles.

As I said - I think you paid about $1000 too much for the warranty, but that is not uncommon, but I also think the dealer doesn't understand how the warranty works ... which is odd, but I suspect the dealer will stall for a few weeks and then come back and tell you you were right and the warranty is from date of service.

There is a huge profit in these warranties - but oddly the dealer won't always price match.

i.e. Toby in LA sells the warranty for $1500, the local dealer wants $2500 - you tell him you can get the warranty for $1500 and he says "Buy it from him instead then." Not sure why, but I think they have enough people that pay the $2500 that they would rather lose a sale that they could have sold for $1500 to not have to tell everyone else - "We ask $2500, but we'll really take $1500."

Now - what you can try - not sure it will work - but it isn't really dishonest "You told me I would get a warranty for 8-years or 100K miles for $2500. I'm getting a warranty for 6-years and 64K miles instead - how about dropping the price to $1500 or $1800 since I was mis-represented as to what I was buying." (If you financed the warranty that is awkward as they would have to re-do the loan, but they could cut you a check for $700 or $1000.

 

I don't think that's dishonest at all. In fact, I think it's pretty honest and straight forward. The fact is that there was a misunderstanding. Toyota, the dealership and I need to come to a reasonable meeting of the minds to make it right. Plus, what you suggested is pretty close to what actually happened.


When I didn't hear back from the dealership, I called Toyota customer service directly. Explained to them the issue, explained my conversation with the dealer and said that I was just following up to see what he'd found out from them. The first guy said what you did -- that it is what it is; the warranty starts from the original date of sale and the miles on the car count against it. I said that I understood but if this can't be worked out, then I needed to know where I stood in terms of the refund policy. Because I had read the fine print, I was able to start quoting the policy to him and asking specific questions. So he transferred me to the department that actually handles the policy and cancellations. Fair enough.


The second guy (still very nice and professional) repeated what you and the first guy said. I told him 'My preference is to work this out, but I either want the full 100,000 miles that I thought that I was paying for or a refund. What are my time limits and qualifications to get a refund?' He said that he'd call the dealership and get back to me in a day or so with options. He also explained the time frame that I needed to be aware of in order to request a refund. (Basically, I have two weeks to work this out one way or another.) Again, fair enough.


Within the hour the dealership called with three options. Option one, they'll increase the mileage cap to 125k. Option two, they'll refund $750 in consideration of the misunderstanding and everything stays the same. And option three, they'll give me a full refund.


I'm going to sleep on it, but I'm leaning towards increasing the mileage cap. Like you said, cars today can get complicated to fix. And I rather like having the ability to drop it off, let them throw parts at the problem until it's fixed and I'll use a rental in the meantime. Plus, there's the roadside assistance that's included. Once my 12 month warranty expires, I'd be paying for that anyway and that would run a good $200 a year. So all in all, I'm thinking that going up to 125k (even with having the existing miles count) puts me pretty close to point where the 'peace of mind' factor kicks in.

 

Didn't see the thread in a few days.

I would talk to Toby in LA and see what he can sell it for - they might or might not price match it, and/or you might or might not be able to cancel and buy from him (Toyco has restricted a lot on internet and out-of-state sales).

I'm more familiar with Ford Extended warranties than Toyota Extended warranties.

http://andersonandkoch-ford-warranty.com/forms/form3_2010.php - Ford pricing here - they now go to 8-years and 150K miles - I think the longest plan used to be 100K miles.

Toyota has had 8-years or 125K miles - so the dealership is really either offering you a longer plan or a discount on your current plan or a refund.

I guess the problem I have with it is the dealer isn't really doing you any favors for your inconvenience. They are selling you the plan for $750 less, but they probably would have done that for you if you'd asked.

To give you a similar example - a local dealer sells parts at a discount and had a price of $6.44 for an oil filter on their website, but they are 30-40 miles away. I called my local (nearer) dealer and he said they are $9.88, but he can usually sell them for $8. I asked if he would match $6.44 and he said he would - but he didn't volunteer that, so he isn't really helping me out ...

Keep in mind how much you drive the car also - i.e. you are paying either way for 8-years coverage from 2014 or until 2022. If you will only have 85K miles on the car by 2022, having the dealership raise the mileage cap to 125K won't gain you anything and you would do better taking the $750. If you will have 100K on the car by 2021, they 8-years doesn't help you, but you might do better with the increased mileage.

(I know you can't really tell yet - you might change jobs and get a car from work so this becomes a weekend car, or a job where you have to travel with this car and you drive 5x more than planned).

Make sure rental coverage is included - with Ford it is extra to get same-day rental. Then again, some Ford dealers provide loaner cars, so you don't need that - know how your preferred dealer works.

I think roadside assistance is around $30 per 6-months on most car insurance policies - might be worth checking into. Or you could pay for a tow if you need one. It's probably around $60 and the car better not leave you stranded more than once a year ...

 

This whole insurance/warranty is pretty much a big scam to me. I know its always good to have but i wish we would get reimbursed.
You give money every month to "X" to make sure you are covered in case something happens. If nothing happens then "X" says "well...I see everything is perfectly fine as of this day. Thank you for giving me your hard earned money over the past X amount of years, hasta la vista amigo"