My inclination is to fix what you have. Any used car you get is going to need money thrown at it. I tend to budget between 1-2K for parts when I buy a used car. I have not experienced buying a certified car and maybe that would reduce the cost to bring the car up to snuff. The timing belt and water pump is normal maintenance.

 

Agreed. I know what's wrong with it at the moment. I don't know what I'm getting into with a used car, but we'd get an 2011-2014 RX350 if we did replace it. Very solid cars, but no guarantees in terms of surprises.

 

1) You're assuming the worst case here. Replacement of transfer case.

2) Even if it did come out to $4,000, if it's as nice and well cared for as you say, you'd probably get more than 4 more years of service. It's a reliable Toyota. (What kind of shape is the engine in?)

3) It's even a good, cheap college car for your child if they're going to have one while at school.

That's only $1,000/year depreciated across your estimated remaining life. Most likely a fraction of what it will cost you if you replace it. Heck, the insurance increases alone on something newer and better will cost you at least that much because you can forgo comp & collision on the old one but would likely want that coverage on the new one. (I'm in CA where this is a reality. Other states may be different.)

I give the same advice to people who ask me the same question only with the "but it's not even worth what it would cost to fix it" argument. From and economic standpoint, fixing it is usually the better option rather than replacing it. But from a soul satisfying point, maybe not. 🤷‍♂️

 

My inclination is to fix what you have. Any used car you get is going to need money thrown at it. I tend to budget between 1-2K for parts when I buy a used car. I have not experienced buying a certified car and maybe that would reduce the cost to bring the car up to snuff. The timing belt and water pump is normal maintenance.

1) You're assuming the worst case here. Replacement of transfer case.

2) Even if it did come out to $4,000, if it's as nice and well cared for as you say, you'd probably get more than 4 more years of service. It's a reliable Toyota. (What kind of shape is the engine in?)

3) It's even a good, cheap college car for your child if they're going to have one while at school.

That's only $1,000/year depreciated across your estimated remaining life. Most likely a fraction of what it will cost you if you replace it. Heck, the insurance increases alone on something newer and better will cost you at least that much because you can forgo comp & collision on the old one but would likely want that coverage on the new one. (I'm in CA where this is a reality. Other states may be different.)

I give the same advice to people who ask me the same question only with the "but it's not even worth what it would cost to fix it" argument. From and economic standpoint, fixing it is usually the better option rather than replacing it. But from a soul satisfying point, maybe not. 🤷‍♂️

Yes, worst case would be transfer case replacement, but the bulk of the cost is removing the engine and tranny even if just gasket replacement. Engine is in great shape... no issues ever. The only major issue we've ever had was the first transfer case gasket replacement. 2 day job cost us nothing. Everything else, including prior timing belt/water pump, has been routine maintenance. Just replaced the original alternator at 215k. Went with another Denso. Car has been reliable.

This would actually be one of our daily drivers which we would use to transport the kid to college. Our other car is an 05 Lexus ES330 that I purchased a few years ago. Same great engine. I'm looking for a well-cared for 05-08 Matrix for the kid. That era of Toyota is solid.

I forgot about insurance. I upped the deductibles, but I should probably drop comp and/or collision.

Yeah, I'm starting to lean toward fixing it. $1000/year or more over the next handful of years (excluding other repairs which I typically do myself) is cheaper than car payments by a long shot.

 

Looking for advice. I have an 05 Highlander AWD with 218,000 miles on it. I've owned it for the past 16 years (2nd owner) and it's been extremely reliable. This car owes us nothing. A local mechanic recently told me it's "incredibly clean for a vehicle of that age and mileage". We take good care of it. Oil changes every 3000-3500 miles, fluid changes per maintenance schedule. We've taken it on 3 road trips, each 12+ hours (each way) over the past 3 years and it's been flawless.

We recently got the dreaded transfer case oil drops on the floor. Previously, the transfer case was wet, but now it's slow dripping. We had the front gasket replaced once before, under warranty, so I know it's a big job. I spoke to a trusted mechanic that works on Toyota's alot and he indicated the transfer case might need to be replaced, so they'd have to track down a used one. Otherwise, it's the front gasket and rear shaft seal replacement.

Timing belt/water pump is also due right about now. So, I'm looking at $4000+ of repairs. Do I get the work done and probably get 4 or so more years out of it or should I retire it? I need something to drive my kid to and from college (14 hours each way) and this would be the vehicle that I'd use. Or am I asking too much for something with this mileage (assuming I get it fixed)? Thanks

really depends on finances. We had a 06 highlander hybrid and loved it wish I had kept it longer. Ended up getting rid of it when the ABS module died at 230k , we had 2 teenage drivers and the part was $1700...

In the end $4k if it gets you another 2 years is worth it in my opinion. Kid going to college keep the money in your pocket for a couple more years... A year and a half ago I bought a 21 venza and gave my 07 camry (250k) for my daughter to have at school (3 hr away). the year before I put like $3k into it struts, brakes, drive axles, just did a water pump (original made it to 260k). Put a few bucks in now when you get something newer the kid can knock around in it for a couple more years after you trade up.

 

@tomhv brings up a good point I also make with folks. Just because repairs may exceed any internet value of the car, is not a reason to not do the repairs. It makes more sense to look at what it would cost to replace used or new what you have right now.

I'm curious if your mechanic inspected the breather vent on your transfer case. @AlexMan brought to the attention of this forum the importance of checking them occassionally. They are found on both the transfer case and rear differential. If they become clogged with dirt, pressure can build up to the point it causes seal leaks. The rear differential is easily checked (especially with the spare tire removed), but the front one can be very challenging to reach.

https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/t-case-and-rear-differential-breather-check.1756421/

 

@tomhv brings up a good point I also make with folks. Just because repairs may exceed any internet value of the car, is not a reason to not do the repairs. It makes more sense to look at what it would cost to replace used or new what you have right now.

I'm curious if your mechanic inspected the breather vent on your transfer case. @AlexMan brought to the attention of this forum the importance of checking them occassionally. They are found on both the transfer case and rear differential. If they become clogged with dirt, pressure can build up to the point it causes seal leaks. The rear differential is easily checked (especially with the spare tire removed), but the front one can be very challenging to reach.

https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/t-case-and-rear-differential-breather-check.1756421/

I had no idea there was a breather that can get clogged. I'm bringing it to a different mechanic next week for a second opinion. I will mention the breather. I'm assuming once the pressure builds up and pushes fluid out the seals and gasket, it's too late.

Newer car will definitely cost more over the next handful of years. Will have to bite the bullet at some point, but maybe that point is around 300k.

 

Honestly, In my point of view, I think the only time it worth to retire a reliable well built vehicle if (for a lack of better words) compromises safety like rust and or exponentially expensive ie timing belt, blown head gasket, etc.

 

Some ideas- Be sure it is gear lube and not oil from the rear valve cover or power steering fluid or transmission fluid from the double seal.
An alternate way I deal with slow leaks is to form an aluminum baking pan to the area and chain or cable it in place then clean it as needed, and check the fluid level frequently. (I used to own an MGB).
There is a factory fill plug on the top of the transfer that I have been eyeing as a location for a second homemade breather but I haven’t done it yet. My transfer is seeping but no drips on the ground. Looks like it is from the cover and not the double seal.

 

There is a factory fill plug on the top of the transfer that I have been eyeing as a location for a second homemade breather but I haven’t done it yet.

That's an interesting possible solution if the breather vent gets clogged. You can see that fill bolt from inside the engine bay so might be able to extract it and install a secondary breather vent. Since the diameter is larger that than the breather vent, I wonder if a reducing fitting could be used, and then use a Toyota thread in breather vent like the rear differential uses.

 

For kicks, I got a quote from the local Toyota dealer to replace the front cover gasket and the rear shaft seal. $3600. 20 hours. That doesn't include a used transfer case if it is needed. I'm not considering them, but was curious.

 

That was a good data point to get for reference. Did they actually say it would a used salvage transfer case? Sometimes they offer remanufactured units rebuilt by Toyota with a warranty.

 

They gave me the option of obtaining a transfer case on my own to save money. I'd sacrifice the savings for a warranty however. That does bring up a good point... getting a warranty on a used part.

 

If there's a reputable truck driveline shop locally maybe get a 2nd opinion. Just don't retire a car because of a plugged vent tube tho.

Example driveline shop and services:

http://drivelineandgear.com/

 

the breather would be something you addressed moving forward but it would not fix the issue you are currently having. the damage has been done.

Had a 98 4runner with the same issue. Rear axle breather would clog and blow out one of the 2 rear axle seals. this would take out the rear rotor and pads as well and make a complete mess.

if you go forward with the repair, have a new breather installed. or install a little valve cover breather and never worry about it again. (just dont cross any rivers without a check valve.)

 

the breather would be something you addressed moving forward but it would not fix the issue you are currently having. the damage has been done.

Had a 98 4runner with the same issue. Rear axle breather would clog and blow out one of the 2 rear axle seals. this would take out the rear rotor and pads as well and make a complete mess.

if you go forward with the repair, have a new breather installed. or install a little valve cover breather and never worry about it again. (just dont cross any rivers without a check valve.)

All good info. I'll inquire about the breather if I move forward with the repair. And I'll check the rear diff on my own, seeing how it's easily accessible.