They are right, Bushings are not serviced seperatly. The quote of $820 is a typical, the arms are about $170 each and the book calls for 8 hours of labor.

 

I don't know if the front set-up is different on my Avalon, but on my 97 Avalon it came out to about 450. 150 each side for the control arm plus 150 labor. It took about an hour and a half for my mechanic to put them in. I dont see how Toyota can charge 800+ dollars for that job.

 

Thank you for the quick response. I thought it was unusual for the part to wear out after only 95000km. Have you heard anything about the Mevotech control arms? They go for $116. Also saw a no name set at thepartsbin going for $85.

Also, is the oil moisture issue normal for most cars as was explained to me by the service manager?

 

Thank you for the quick response. I thought it was unusual for the part to wear out after only 95000km. Have you heard anything about the Mevotech control arms? They go for $116. Also saw a no name set at thepartsbin going for $85.

Also, is the oil moisture issue normal for most cars as was explained to me by the service manager?

my experience with mevotech products was horrible. well at least in my experience. 2 weeks ago, redid the whole front end suspension for my 97 ES300. i had ordered the LCA bushings, tie rod ends, mevotech balljoints 8 months prior, but finally came to install everything. all went well, except the balljoints. they didnt fit. so i had to run over to Toyota to purchase oem joints. the shafts on the balljoints were too thick. there was no way i was going to be able to crank down the castle nut enough to get the cotter pin in.

 

Your Platinum Extended Care Warranty plan would cover the cost.........

 

What extended care warranty? I didn't opt into any extra coverage at the time of purchase.

 

After speaking to a couple of service advisors, I'm told it is normal for there to be sweating around the pans.

As for the bushing, they say Toyota is aware of the situation and is working on a way to replace the bushings without having to replace the entire control arm.

 

Appreciate the info. After a bit more looking around, I found the parts at toyotapartsales.com and feel that would probably be a better option. They can be had at the site for $119 while they go for $204 up here. Parity my ***.

I think it's worth the drive down to Buffalo to pick up a set while I'm there to pick up tires.

 

I just got a $1450 repair estimate for my 90,000 km (55,000 miles) check up, lower control arm bushings and steering shaft replacement on an 04 Camry. As mentionned, They have to replace both lower control arms because the bushings don't separate from the arms. The technician obviously went right for the bushings to check them as he knew they're a weak point. I am not impressed, if I replace the steering shaft (another weak spot) and the control arms, there's half the front end rebuilt with so little mileage. I'm starting to miss my 86 Caprice.

 

the steering intermediate shaft is a common point of failure on 02-06 camrys/solaras, 01-07 highlanders, 01-03 sienna vans and some 01-04 avalons...the design is flawed and toyota has an updated steering intermediate shaft to rememdy the issue...the shaft that is flawed commonly makes a noise when steering and has a binding feel to it...theres a TSB out on these

as for the lower control arm bushings, the whole control arms do have to be replaced...it sucks i know, but its the design unfortunatly...
id stay oem for suspension componets, but id get a few opinions on the price of labor...book does call for 8 hours labor, but i can tell you form experience it doesnt take that long....ive done alot of suspension work on my 03 SE and nothing on that suspension design is hard to replace or repair...i loves mcpherson struts!

 

the issue at hand that affects you and not me is that 2004 and up camrys have a transverse engine mount at the subframe that interferes with the removal of the rear control arm bolts, which means youd need an engine lifting device or a stand, as this engine mount must be dropped to allow removal of the control arm, and this is not true with the 2002-2003 models. there was a change in some designs between the 03-04 model years.

 

I read the shop manual.. step one: Remove the engine and transaxle...

So can I lift the engine up a few inches carefully with a jack from underneath after detaching the engine mounts, (three below one above)? Or does it need to come up high enough to have to detach everything (exhaust, hoses, wiring, driveshafts), using a mini crane?
The rest of the job looks pretty straight forward.. I have gotten my hands dirty a few times...
Thanks

 

im not sure if youd want to attempt this on your own....we have engine stands at work that allow us to jack the engine and transaxle off the lower mounts to gain acess to the bolts for the lower control arm....if you had a 2002-3003 id say go for it, as its a cake walk...but since you have a (2005?) id reccomend seeking a professional for your own safety

 

I have done this work before, changing oil pans on v-8s, replacing transmissions, clutches etc FWD RWD, I have learned through mistakes...
I was just wondering if what I should disconnect (or what I can get away with not disconnecting) to avoid damage to any components etc. I would support the car, engine, transaxle properly