Yes, I have seen some corrosion or salt
Build up (I live in Canada) and I just clean it off with wire brush attached to a drill whenever I change tires.


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I wish I took a picture. It is definitely an intentionally applied product, on the wheel studs and wheel mating surface, not salt or debris. It feels smooth and makes the nuts slide on easily.

If I found it anywhere else I would think it is a lubricant or anti-seize.

Just based on the misunderstanding, I take it this is not typical...

 

Then it’s probably just anti seize


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That doesn't sound good. Seems that could result in overtorquing the lug nuts and stretching the bolts.

I don't presume to know better than the manufacturer's engineers, so I think I will try cleaning off the substance the next time.

 

If it is coarse/bright metal shavings on the lugs then it’s probably the metal lug/nut from overtorquing but that will only show on the lugs only.

If you see anything on the part of the rotors and the wheel where the two meet, that won’t be from overtorquing. If there is something on that surface, that’s either rust, corrosion or anti seize.

I live in Canada and change my own tires between all season and winter tires. I use torque wrench and don’t use anti seize. I just take wheels off and use circular wire brush attached to a drill and clean the two surfaces (usually after the winter). That’s all I do and put the wheels on.


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Right, antiseize on wheel studs aren't good. You can consider changing out the studs and nuts. Occasionally we hear about wheels flying off cars on the highways causing damage to other innocents too.

 

Oh, great... I hope replacing the studs and nuts isn't necessary. Sounds expensive. Though I'm reading that removing anti-seize is not easy. I might try getting as much of it off as possible with paper towels, then maybe using alcohol or some solvent.

Interestingly/frustratingly, we had the vehicle "inspected" by a Toyota dealer before purchasing, and there was not even a comment about this. One would think the dealer would stick to manufacturer requirements. One surprise after another.

 

we had the vehicle "inspected" by a Toyota dealer before purchasing, and there was not even a comment about this.

Their inspections are laughable, do you hire a fox to check the security of the hen house? Once looked at a car that had undergone a 207 point inspection (WoW, 207)....but they missed the white corrosion around both battery terminals.
/

 

You can use a toothbrush or wirebrush and brake parts cleaner on the studs. Use some cotton swabs on the nuts and clean off any remaining lint.

My concern for replacement was precisely the possible over torqueing of the hardware and the potential for failure afterwards. In the US each (Dorman) stud is about USD$2 and DIY-able.

An example:

 

^ yeah the inspections are a joke. Sometimes it seems like they just checked the boxes without even looking.

 

Just wipe it as much off as you can with a cloth. No need to worry. I have used anti seize on studs in the past for many years in my old Jeep. Never had an issue, but I always hand torque it to spec.

 

Seems like this is another issue with varying opinions. When I brought it up, the mechanic working on the car wasn't at all concerned about anti-seize. (He didn't apply the stuff.)

I still prefer to stick to official specs but at least I'll worry less in the meantime.

 

Anti seize on mating surfaces maybe, on the lugs, not a good idea. Clean up the lugs and go with required torque.