The alternators for the 2013 Corolla should fit a 2014+ since they both use the same engine setup. So the high output alternator that you found for the 2013 should fit your car.

 

I assume you are planning a monster stereo? I would suggest using digital amps. I have all Alpine PDX amps in my system and the amp requirement is greatly reduced vs conventional amps. Probably planning a lot bigger system though hu.

 

Thanks for the replies guys. I already have a full alpine system. Running two amps, one giving 1000 watts RMS to 2 12" type R's in the trunk, and one sending out 500 watts RMS to each of the four type R components in the doors, with 200 watt tweeters paired in. I had everything done at a shop because I didn't feel like getting involved and they did a beautiful job with everything. I'm running a nice sized capacitor for the subs, and I just put an optima yellow top battery in the car last night. Couldn't believe Toyota put a battery as low as 338 CCA in the car from the factory. I'm really wanting to do the alternator just to make sure the car has More then enough to meet its demands. I believe the factory alternator is like 100 amps or something? I had the car at the dealer the other night to have them investigate a squeaking/chirping noise under the hood when the car is in drive, but stopped with your foot on the break and goes away when you take your foot off the break to start to move. Or put it in neutral or park. I thought it was something with the steel belt in the CVT as it definitely sounded like it was coming from the trans area. But anyway they told me they didn't find anything wrong with that but the tech did think he heard the alternator make a little noise for a split second and said it MAY be because the system is overworking it. So I figured let me look into a high output one as they seem to be pretty cheap. The ones I'm finding for the 2013 are only like 3-400 bucks. But the mounting brackets are way different in the 2013 then the 2016 so I definitely couldn't use one from a 13

 

Sounds like a nice system. You could ask the stereo shop if they know of a machine shop that can make custom brackets.

 

Called mechman alternators and was told that 2014-2016 corollas alternators are different because of their can bus system and in early testing by putting in their 2013 model high output alternator it changed the shift points of the car. I am disappointed because I have new hertz speaker setup with 100 watt rms speakers and a 600 watt rms subwoofer. I have the sub hooked up to an amp but can't install my amp for my speakers because I don't want to run 1000 watts rms through my electrical system and wreck my alternator

 

Another benefit to have a 6MT and not a CVT as you shift when you want to! :lol:

 

First welcome to Toyotanation If you have a standard 100+ amp alternator you will be fine with 1000 watt rms system, they rarely draw that load truthfully. You can put a 1 farad cap or so in the system as well to buffer things. I have at least that much amp in my 2009 Camry. Almost 8 years and 264k miles later and not one electrical issue.

 

Oh ok that's great news I appreciate the response I will go and hook up my amp

 

I contacted Mechman and received the same response for my 2016 iM, don't know if the Corolla is different, but with a little more digging and contacting other companies, I settled with Singer Alternators. Great guy, very good customer service and good reviews. I purchased a 240 amp neon green powder coated. It was supposedly a direct bolt on, but he mentioned to get a shorter belt or create a new top bracket, I just went ahead and got a slightly longer piece of metal, marked where I needed to drill holes to mount and done deal.

No significant drops in voltage on low frequencies and no slight dimming on my headlights anymore. Definitely give them an email

 

:nopics:

 

I assume that's 500W RMS combined to the door speakers... not 2000w RMS combined... :surprise:

Since nobody has said yet... eBay / Amazon "high output alternators" should be avoided. Mechman is good stuff.

DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY ON A CAPACITOR. SPEND YOUR MONEY ON COPPER AND LEAD!

Buy the biggest size and rating AGM lead acid battery that will fit and ALL COPPER quality brand 2 or 0 gauge cables to a distribution block next to your amps and from the distribution block to the body and from the body to the battery. From the blocks, use the largest gauge cable that will fit into your amps. If you can do the alternator positive wire ( MUST BE FUSED! ) and engine to body that is a plus. Solder any cable to terminal connections especially any that will be exposed to the elements. Any unsealed connections under the hood should also have dielectric grease applied.


Music volume and power consumption is not simple addition, it is logarithmic and complex to calculate...

You will not need a high output alternator running "1500w RMS" for combined Bass and Treble amps for music. Especially if your amps are modern Class D amps.

You would if you were doing continuous full volume bass notes like in SPL contests.

The 10/11th gen 90 amp alternator is capable of 1,215 watts RMS continuous for short periods ((13.5V x 90A) @ 80% load or efficiency)... You will not draw that continuously while listening to music everyday without going deaf.

I had a "750w RMS" two Alpine amp ( one class D and one A/B ) system on the Prizm (stock 80 amp alt, AMG battery, and all 4 gauge wires) and under TRUE RMS clamp ammeter load test I drew no more than 40 amps (540w) at just short of painful volume on a bass heavy song with all gains and EQ's properly set.

 

Don't now wath you have read about capacitor? But capacitor will preserve and protect batery, alternator and car electronic.

Battery use a chimical reaction to produced electricity. Even if your battery is bigeror if you install more battery this chimical reaction is not quick enough for a amp. That why Power Capacitor will help, you don't have to wait for the chimical reaction because capacitor deliver power instantaneously.

 

Contact Brandx electrical to get an alternator made for your car. They make ones for the newer toyotas. It is a direct bolt in, no need to get a smaller belt. Dont go over 250amp because it will cause all the lights to come on the dash. Ask for Johnathan, he will answer all your questions. Brand X Electrical