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Horn Does Not Work...?

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17K views 17 replies 3 participants last post by  Tumbler510  
#1 ·
My horn doesn't work. The PO turned the truck into a full prerunner, including cutting back the unused wires (horn included). I cut back the electrical tape, and found what I am fairly certain is the horn wire on both sides of the engine compartment.

The horn I have is a Grant unit, and I have plugged the horn into the plug in the steering column. When depressed, there is no click of a relay anywhere, so I assume it is bad or not present. I have checjked continuity from the horn button to the steering column connector, so I know there is flow into the wiring harness.

After some digging around, I found a slot next to the drivers side kick panel relay block that is vacant. It has QTY4 wires leading out of the rear, and has 4 slots on the front.
All the research I have done has shown a 3-pin relay for the horn, so I am not sure what it could be.

Anybody have any insight into what this relay location should control and/or why my horn isn't working?

TIA for any assistance!

Vacant relay is in the top right of this picture:
Image


Vacant relay rear side:
Image
 
#2 ·
My horn doesn't work . . . found what I am fairly certain is the horn wire on both sides of the engine compartment. . . Anybody have any insight into what this relay location should control and/or why my horn isn't working?

You don't mention what year truck you have, but I'm pretty sure it's very different to my '84. I would suggest you begin with finding a copy of the factory service manual. It should show you where the horn relay is normally located. FSMs in pdf format for most years can be found on the internet if you Google around a bit. You won't find them at this forum for legal copyright reasons.


If you're not particular about keeping the wiring original, you can install a generic relay wherever is convenient for you. A generic relay can be had for far less than even junkyard prices on a Toyota direct replacement.


For example:
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G20188
 
#3 ·
According to my 95 wiring diagram the wire from the relay to each horn is orange, and the wire from the relay to the horn button is green/red stripe, that helps.
 
#7 ·
Still searching the internet for the FSM. I know how helpful it can be, but am having a lot more trouble finding it than any of my other cars.

I found a relay that COULD have worked at Autozone (across the street from me), but it didn't change anything. I think the internal schematic might not be the right one, so I am still looking...

Said relay: http://www.autozone.com/engine-management/relay-efi/duralast-relay-efi/269464_0_0
 
#9 ·
Ok, thanks to a very helpful forum user, I have the wiring diagram for the horn.

Unfortunately it raises a few more questions than it solves. I have a screenshot posted at the bottom of this post.

1. Below is a picture of the backside of my horn. There is only one wire, and I connect it to the non-Ground pin. When I have my multimeter connected to the "Ground pin" and the green/red wire in the engine bay (for the horn), I get it to show continuity when the horn is pushed. That's great. But is there supposed to be something going to the ground pin of the horn button? There is no other connector on the steering column, and I read online that it is self-grounding.

2. What is "L-W" supposed to signify, colorwise on the wiring diagram?

Image


Image
 
#11 ·
Yup. Tried that over the weekend.
12V went from the battery directly to the + of the horn.
Horn button on the steering wheel was hooked up as shown above (one wire).

Horn did not fire.

I also jumpered the ground of the horn to a bolt used for ground in the cab, and again, horn did not fire.

Horn was tested minutes before on the +/- of the battery, and it fired perfectly.
 
#12 · (Edited)
While there's more than one way to skin a cat, in a case like this I favor taking a systematic approach. I would suggest you begin by wiring it according to the diagram. If the horn still doesn't sound, then troubleshoot with your DMM.

Here's the idea. You have already demonstrated that the horn will sound when it gets +12V and ground. If it doesn't sound, then either it's not getting a solid +12V, or it's not getting a solid ground. Or both.

How can you tell which possibility it is? With your DMM.

With the horn wired correctly, and with an assistant at the horn button, press the button and measure the voltage on each horn lug. These voltages should be measured with the DMM read lead, while the DMM black lead is grounded to the battery (-) terminal. While trying to sound the horn.

Do you measure +12V on the non-grounded pin? And less than one volt on the grounded pin? If not, you need to look at the offending part of the circuit.
 
#17 ·
You might want to redline your wiring diagram to indicate which circuit you've spliced into. We think we'll remember these things - after so many hours of agony - but it's amazing how quickly we forget. If there's any question which circuit it is, you might pull fuses one at a time until you get it.


Congratulations on a job well done.
 
#18 ·
Good idea.

+12V spliced from the smaller gauge blue wire with a white stripe and grey dots going into the windshield wiper motor.
No horn relay is used for this circuit. (Still not sure what relay should go in that slot).

From the numerous trips to the junkyard looking at other truck's horns, this seems to be the same color wire that should have been there. But since the PO moved the fuse box under the hood into the cab of the truck, I assume this wire was clipped somewhere.