hmm

The distributor is held on to the head by two 12mm or 14mm bolts (cant remember) you can see the front bolt easily and the 2nd is below the distributor. Take the cap off and note the general direction that the rotor is facing then just pull out the dist. The dist can only go back in one of two ways so as long as you have a general idea of where the rotor was pointing before you pulled the dist out then you really cant mess it up. The rotor comes off the dist by removing the 8mm bolt holding it to the shaft. You wont have any probs after that.

 

In addition to what frenum49 said, scribe a line on the base of the distributor and the cylinder head. Then when you reinstall the distributor, line up the scribed line and the timing will be right back where it was.

Mike

 

Thanks for your input guys. I am going to try that this weekend. What do u think about the dust cover. It still sits over the coil , it just doesnt snap in on both sides, only on one side. Nobody has one so I have to get this from the dealer,20 bucks. It is going to take a few days to get. I figure i will change out the coil and see if this is the problem, then when it comes in I can put the cover on. I purchased a multimeter but am not sure how to check if power levels are what they need to be. I also purchased a repair manual. I dont have any knowledge as far as electrical problems with this car. I am not sure if i have a bad fuse or if it even is the coil. I have read some past write ups and am taking a guess. Like I said I changed out the battery with the connectors , the plugs ,wires cap and rotor are only four months old. I just put in a new cap cause I noticed a crack in this one. I took off the top part of the fuel filter which is also new and there was gas in the line. So I assume I have fuel. Any other suggestions are welcome.Wish me luck.

 

It sounds like you never really tested the car to see if the problem is a no spark condition or a no fuel condition. A simple way to check for a no fuel condition is to remove the big tube leading to the throttle body. Then spray some O2 safe carb cleaner in to the throttle body. Spray for about 3-4 seconds. Then reasemble the big tube back on to the throttle body and try to start the car. It probably won't start, but if it now sputters a bit like it is trying to start, where it didn't before, you have identified that you have a no fuel condition.

Just an FYI. You mentioned in your first post that I have crank but it wont turn over. These things mean the same thing; the act of the starter spinning over the engine. I think you meant to say your starter spins (or cranks or turns over) the engine, but the engine will not catch and run on it's own. The correct terminology just makes it easier for people to understand your problem and to offer help.

Mike

 

Thanks for clearing that up. I get that sputter once in a while when trying to start the car. Now you have me wondering if I am going in the wrong direction. The car is continuously cranking but wont start. Initally I was low on fuel. Someone else thought it might be a fuel issue and I checked the top end of the filter to see if gas was there. I think I am going to have to take the fuel filter off completely and clear out the filter. I am going to have to check the pump but dont know how. I dont hear any priming sound when I turn the key. Any more advise would be great. Thanks

 

There are three common sources of no spark on all cylinders:
- failure of the coil,
- failure of the ignition control module ("ignitor"), or
- the button contact in the distributor cap is sticking.

The ignitor is an expensive part to replace (list is over $400), and
some less-common failures are difficult to diagnose. The common
failures are easily diagnosable since there is a tachometer output and
engine computer gets a feedback signal indicating that the ignitor
thinks it has triggered a spark. Indications that it's still good are if
- the tach jumps when cranking the engine, and
- if there are no engine computer error codes.


The ignitor is mounted on the left strut tower where it's easily seen,
but you'll need to unclip the air filter cover to remove it.

The coil is less expensive, but it's inside the distributor and thus
more difficult to replace. You'll need to remove the air filter cover
then the distributor cap to test the coil. The primary should measure
less than 1 ohm between the screw terminals, and the secondary should
measure between 9K and 15K ohms between either screw terminal and where
the distributor cap button makes contact. A resistance lower than 9K
ohms indicates the coil has at least partially failed and should be
replaced.

Tools to replace coil and distributor parts
#2 phillips screwdriver for coil mounting screws
7mm (1/4") nut driver for coil terminals
8mm driver (or #2 phillips) for distributor cap screws
10mm socket (or #3 phillips) for air duct clamp
12mm socket and 3"+ extension for distributor hold-down bolts
12mm open-end wrench for throttle cable
Small screwdriver or plastic tool to
Remove distributor o-ring
Release plug wires from distributor cap

None of these parts, with the possible exception of the distributor cap,
will come with a new or rebuilt distributor.

 

Well I finally got it started. It was the ignition coil. I first made sure it wasnt the fuel pump and filter before I pulled the distributor. Only thing , I need a gasket for the dis cap and a new dust shield for the coil. I want to get that on before I drive it . Hopefully no problems. Its only a baby, 92 with 96,000. Hopefully no more repairs for a while. thanks for everyones help.

 

Since you have the distributor pulled, you'll want to replace the o-ring on the distributor shaft. On a car this old, the original o-ring will be pretty brittle. It could easily be damaged upon reinstall causing a leak. It's maybe a $3 part at the stealer.

 

could the igniter or the coil cause a surge at idle?

thanks

 

My 95 Camry had no spark, I changed the distributor and still no spark. Finally checked the fuse labeled AM2 , a 30 amp fuse under the hood in the fuse box close to the battery. Turns out the old distributor had a short in it that caused the fuse to blow. Changed the fuse and now it has spark...runs great again.
BTW..at first I thought I had a no fuel condition. So I tried pulling the large air intake hose off the throttle body and squirted starter fluid into the intake...and it fired, like it was going to run. I don't know why, since the distributor was bad, but doing this check led me down the wrong path looking for fuel pump problems. Hope this helps