Red is +12v, wire it to a fuse that has power applied the way you want it (IE all of the time or with the accessories on).
Black is return/ground, any good place on the chassis.

From the question, I would find someone to do the install for you, as you could mess up your car or what you plug into the socket/outlet.

Good luck...

 

Thank you for your reply. I managed to do and write about how to do this:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...orum/11-audio-video-security-tech/250962-how-replace-toyota-camry-speakers.html


So do you think you can give me a few hints, I know Black is ground and Red is +12V. How do you find, a fuse that has "power applied the way you want it"? Is there a guide, is there anything that can help me figure this out. This is a second forum I am posting on. On the first one I posted, they insisted I pay somebody to do it. I had a guy PM me and email me to pay him to do it, but nobody would post anything about how to do it.


Is connecting these two wires for some reason harder than connecting an entire stereo, a component speaker set, a rear speaker set or connecting an amp? I definitely do not want to mess this up, but I would like to at least understand why connecting two wires is hard enough not to even try.

 

If it was me i would buy this [ame]http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002KR88A/ref=mp_s_a_1?pi=SL75&qid=1351688880&sr=8-1[/ame] then connect it to the + battery post, extend the wire to reach the mounting location by the steering wheel and connect it to your socket. That way it would not in any way interfere with your cars electric system. You need to use a thick wire, as thick as what the socket you have has.


Sent from my Droid Razr Maxx using the AutoGuide.com app

 

Pls post search name or ASIN number because forums block amazon links. I would like to see what the item you are talking about is.

Thank you for your advice.


So if connected to Fuse Box, it would interfere?

 

Do a search on amazon for "inline fuse holder".

Connecting to a currently in-use fuse in the fuse box will draw more current from that particular fuse. That means you will need a bigger fuse. Using a bigger fuse will not protect the wiring for that system in case something happens.





Sent from my Droid Razr Maxx using the AutoGuide.com app

 

Thanks for explaining, I really appreciate it. By "in that system" what do you mean, the whatever is connected to it?


Would it make a difference if the pictured item in post#1 is used only for a radar detector and nothing else ever? I'd kind of like to have it hooked up right above the fuse box on the dash board and it doesn't draw that much power to mess things up, does it?

How would I go about selecting where to connect, just for my information?


As for Amazon, I did a search for "inline fuse holder" and first hit is "In-line ACT Water-resistant Fuse Holder - 10 AWG" is that what you mean? Do I need to buy additional wire for that?

 

Since you are only using it to power a radar detector why not use one of these duplex adapaters that allow you to plug 2 items in to the existing cigarette lighter. The radar dectector does not draw a lot of amps and this would be plug and play setup. If you don't have a Harbor freight store in your area most auto parts stores carry these.

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-dual-outlet-adapter-67073.html

Mike

 

I can answer your question but I hope this doesn't take us away from my question.


I have two 12 Volt Power Outlets pictured in post #1.

1. One is for a car where the cig lighter blew out when an air compressor was used. That car has zero working cig lighters. I thought I would use the amp kit to connect battery to the 12V Power Outlet.

I am guessing that this will resolve that car's problem and I can from then on use air compressors and other items with no prob, using exactly what you linked to as a splitter?


2. The other one is for my car, I placed the radar detector in the driver side corner of the dash board. I am running an extension cord but thought I could keep it cleaner by simply connecting the radar detector to the 12V power Outlet which I thought I could connect to the Fuse Box.

Will radar detector's power be a problem for the fuse box and more importantly: what do I connect the red to and what the black wire to inside the Fuse Box of a Camry 2002?

 

1. One is for a car where the cig lighter blew out when an air compressor was used. That car has zero working cig lighters. I thought I would use the amp kit to connect battery to the 12V Power Outlet.

Have you used a volt meter to verify there is power at the plug that attaches to the back of the accessory socket from the car?

The accessory socket on mine had an extra fuse built into the back, that is not mentioned in any of Toyota's documentation. I corrected sockets fuse being open problem and now that socket is working. Just a thought.

Now where to connect the socket you have to get power.

In post 2, above, I listed an option for you.
"Red is +12v, wire it to a fuse that has power applied the way you want it (IE all of the time or with the accessories on)."

Now if you want it on all of the time.
Use a voltmeter locate an active 12 volt source in the fuse box (with the key off).

Pull the fuse, probe the opening and find out which part of the open fuse position has the 12v.
Get a tap a fuse adapter and attach it to the fuse you removed.
Now plug the fuse back in, with the adapter on the correct end for the power source.
Now the 12v source end is exposed for you to add the new fuse holder and socket to.

Now if you want it switched on.
Repeat the above process turning the key to accessory, then turn the key to off, if the 12v goes away, you found a spot you can use.

Pull the fuse, probe the opening and find out which part of the open fuse position has the 12v with the switch on.
Verify it goes off with the key off.
Get a tap a fuse adapter and attach it to the fuse you removed.
Now plug the fuse back in, with the adapter on the correct end for the power source.
Now the switched 12v source end is exposed for you to add the new fuse holder and socket to.

If you have power seats or windows, that circuit could be tapped for higher current devices, because it isn't used all of the time and turns off with the switch. Just don't use the high current add on when using the windows or seat. The same holds true for the remote mirror adjuster (lower current demands), for just what you want is fine, as mine is fused at 10 amps, more than enough power to operate the mirror and the detector as an add on, at the same time.

 

The burnt socket is on the other car, Subaru Baja 2003 and yes, Subaru dealership wants $150 to fix it precisely because there is a fuse on the back of the original socket and no other socket will work. That is why I thought I would use a new power wire plus socket pictured in post#1 instead for that car. I understand with new wire and new fuse that comes inside an amp kit, I can run whatever I want off of it safely and comfortably.


I do also want to install the power socket off of the Fuse Box. Thank you kindly for the instructions on Fuse Box, you are the first person on multiple forums to give me this info this week. Your post above was Gold!

I did an search for "Fuse Tap Adaptor Adapter" and it all makes sense now. That was key to the solution of this problem. Thank you.

No real need to have it on all the time, I thought it would be used only when car is running. So which Fuse should I tap on each car. Camry has power seats, but not Baja. THey both have power windows. Camry has power door mirrors too. I think Baja does too.


• Toyota Camry 2002:

• Subaru Baja 2003:

 

The burnt socket is on the other car, Subaru Baja 2003 and yes, Subaru dealership wants $150 to fix it precisely because there is a fuse on the back of the original socket and no other socket will work. That is why I thought I would use a new power wire plus socket pictured in post#1 instead for that car. I understand with new wire and new fuse that comes inside an amp kit, I can run whatever I want off of it safely and comfortably.


I do also want to install the power socket off of the Fuse Box. Thank you kindly for the instructions on Fuse Box, you are the first person on multiple forums to give me this info this week. Your post above was Gold!

I did an search for "Fuse Tap Adaptor Adapter" and it all makes sense now. That was key to the solution of this problem. Thank you.

No real need to have it on all the time, I thought it would be used only when car is running. So which Fuse should I tap on each car. Camry has power seats, but not Baja. THey both have power windows. Camry has power door mirrors too. I think Baja does too.


• Toyota Camry 2002:

• Subaru Baja 2003:

Using the inside fuse block, I would use #4, as it should be off with the ignition switch being off.

 

Check. For the Subaru, use 20 A Cigarette Lighter, Remote Controlled Rear View Mirrors.


And for the Camry, since #25 appears to be 20A Seat Heater, which my Camry does not have, can it be used for what we are trying to do? Or should I select another one for the Camry?


And where exactly do I hook up the black wire to - on or near that fuse box?

 

Locate a screw or bolt that is attached to a metal part and bolts to a metal part, scrape a clear spot in the metal under the bolt head and using a loop type wire lug, insert the bolt and torque the bolt down. (A nut on a stud bolt will work also.)

Done.

 

If you look at the picture in post #1, it looks like the the connector from the red wire is really needed on the black wire and vice versa.


Why did they make it like that since it sounds like "loop type wire lug" is on the red wire instead of the black one. And what's on the black wire looks to be exactly what's need on the red for the fuse tap, doesn't it?


This 41 cent piece is all I need, correct?:


http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BWD0/CT123.oap?

 

If you look at the picture in post #1, it looks like the the connector from the red wire is really needed on the black wire and vice versa.


Why did they make it like that since it sounds like "loop type wire lug" is on the red wire instead of the black one. And what's on the black wire looks to be exactly what's need on the red for the fuse tap, doesn't it?


This 41 cent piece is all I need, correct?:


http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BWD0/CT123.oap?

Your application isn't what the "engineer/manufacture" had in mind. Cut off the wrong ends and put the correct ones on.

How do I connect this ↓ to Camry 2002 Fuse Box - down, to the left of the steering wheel? Where do the red & black go?

The clip the you linked to, in your last post is for the older glass cartridge fuses. (Note the curved end.)

Look at this;
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DOR4/85606.oap?ck=Search_fuse+tap_-1_-1&keyword=fuse+tap

Or this;
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/bu...use-tap-holder-by-dorman-conduct-tite-part-85601-fuse-blocks-boxes-holders.html

Which might be better, for your application (low current draw) as it will not spread the female connection the fuse plugs into in the fuse block.

 

Pfew!

How to connect 12 Volt Power Outlet to Fuse Box

1. Ground the Black wire to metal part of the car. for example:

2. Look at your car's manual to see which fuse is not being used by your car. In my case it was a 20A Seat Heater fuse.
Be sure to select a fuse which controls a part that is not permanently ON if you want the power to only be ON after you set the ignition power ON.

3. Get a Fuse Power Tap from your Auto Parts store, for example Part # 85606 from here:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DOR4/85606.oapand
Connect the Red 12V line from your adaptor to it and insert one end of your fuse in between here:

so that when you put the fuse back in, it looks like this:

To make sure the Fuse Power Tap is on the correct side,

before putting in the fuse, try to get power directly to the Fuse Power Tap,

(without the fuse itself being in, just the Fuse Power Tap.)

The correct side is the side where you get NO POWER if there is no fuse present.

 

You might want to consider covering the exposed portion of that fuse tap and the exposed portion of your crimped on connector with some electrical tape.

Mike

 

Will do, pics were taken immediately after I finished the job, thanks.

 

What about the tap being on the correct side of the fuse, how do you tell which side is the correct side?

 

Put an open fuse in, and test for voltage on each end, or probe the socket with a meter probe, and the other probe of the meter should be on a known good ground with the meter set to volts.

 

So if I have everything working now, do I still need to check for this?

 

The lowest amperage fuse or the fuse with the most current will always open first in a tapped series setup. The added circuit is dependent on the original fuse.
If the add a fuse is on the power source side, you have 2 independent circuits, each on their own fuse.

Either will work depending on the current load.
If it isn't broke, and you are happy, don't fix it...

 

Luna2, they are telling me two things I am concerned about. They are saying "I jammed two things into that fuse socket and it now has the potential for a loose or high resistant connection. A high resistant connection will generate quite a bit of heat, enough to melt the plastic and surround insulation in that fuse panel, which is a quick way to burn your car down."

To that I said It is connected to the Seat Heater 20A fuse and there is no Seat Heater in the Camry.

Does the overheating complaint hold any water in my case?


And 2. They are saying "...there is nothing wrong with the way he tapped off the fuse as long as the tap is on the correct side of the fuse."

Well, I don't know if I have, I mean it works, and I sure don't want to mess with it other than to maybe wrap it up in some electric tape.

 

The #1 statement is correct, IF you put a heavy load on it, a radar detector will not do it...

#2 If you installed a second fuse in line with the added outlet with a low current rating (say up to about 7 amps), it is protected.

The lowest amperage fuse or the fuse with the most current will always open first in a tapped series setup. The added circuit is dependent on the original fuse.

If the "add a fuse" is on the power source side, you have 2 independent circuits, each on their own fuse provided you installed one on the new outlet.

 

I am very troubled when I read about folks who want to tap into wires of unknown size, carrying unknown amperages. You are asking for problems with existing wiring, fuses, and yes, potentially fire. You need to know what you are working with. My suggestion is to run a fused wire of adequate gauge size directly to the battery. If you please and have future needs, run a much larger wire, fused, to an aftermarket fuse block. Radio Shack should sell these. Another fuse at that point and then multiple points for power are available. If you want to tap into the existing fuse block and you don't know which is which, what gauge wire is fused, etc., you are just asking for trouble.

 

Once again, thank you Luna2. I understand what you are saying.

As for gdanaher's post, here's the whole story, followed by questions that apply to my case and not any case out there:

1. If all you want is to connect a radar detector and nothing else *ever* to an unused 20A fuse, then everything is OK and the car won't burn down, if everything is done just as I pictured it above, correct?


[And just out of curiosity Luna2, what constitutes a "heavy load"?]


2. Separate question, separate car:

I want to use a wire from an amp kit, connect the wire to battery, running the wire through the fuse that came with the amp kit directly to the cigarette lighter and thereby fix a broken cigarette lighter issue in a separate car. Can I do that and if yes, which cig lighter can I connect to? Any?


How about the car's broken Subaru Baja cig lighter socket which does not work because Subaru put a fuse right on it and it blew and it *cannot* be replaced using anything other than their $150 cig lighter socket part, but let's not get into that, can I simply connect the amp kit wire through the amp kit fuse, to the original broken cig lighter socket?

 

Once again, thank you Luna2. I understand what you are saying.

As for gdanaher's post, here's the whole story, followed by questions that apply to my case and not any case out there:

1. If all you want is to connect a radar detector and nothing else *ever* to an unused 20A fuse, then everything is OK and the car won't burn down, if everything is done just as I pictured it above, correct?


[And just out of curiosity Luna2, what constitutes a "heavy load"?]


2. Separate question, separate car:

I want to use a wire from an amp kit, connect the wire to battery, running the wire through the fuse that came with the amp kit directly to the cigarette lighter and thereby fix a broken cigarette lighter issue in a separate car. Can I do that and if yes, which cig lighter can I connect to? Any?


How about the car's broken Subaru Baja cig lighter socket which does not work because Subaru put a fuse right on it and it blew and it *cannot* be replaced using anything other than their $150 cig lighter socket part, but let's not get into that, can I simply connect the amp kit wire through the amp kit fuse, to the original broken cig lighter socket?

I would call a heavy load anything above the fuse rating, divided by 2, to the limit of the fuse, because that is what the wiring from the fuse is rated for, as far as maximum current. Any device you add on needs to be added to the current that would normally be drawn, when the OEM device is operating on that circuit.

FYI, the accessory sockets in the Toyota's have a fuse built into them also. The rating of that fuse is a little above or equal to the fuse in the fuse panel. I didn't measure mine, when it opened up because of a defective plug that was inserted, and I destroyed that adapter plug. But, I did remove the built in fuse and added an inline fuse at 10 amps, to protect the cars wiring, on that plug.

You can put anything on the wire to that accessory plug up to the maximum rating of the circuit, with everything turned on. Toyota rated the accessory sockets (2 of them) for a total current not to exceed 10 amps for both outlets, in my Camry. (Up to 10 amps in one, without any current being drawn in the other socket.)

Protection is the key here. Proper wire size and you can reduce the fuse size in any add on circuit to protect the wiring, as long as the device still works... and don't open the fuse.

The circuit for the radar detector you installed, should not pull more than 1/2 amp and should have a fuse in the adapter plug of at least 1 amp to protect its wiring. (I am using a best guess here on the actual currents.)

If the amp kit wire and current rating is larger than the fuse to that circuit, no. If it is only the trigger circuit to turn on the high current lines that you should have wired to the battery with its own fuse, I would say yes, as that circuit only draws about 100 mili amps (0.1 amps or 1/10 of an amp).

 

I added this to my notes to make sure the corrected side is chosen if I ever do this again in the future:

To make sure the Fuse Power Tap is on the correct side,

before putting in the fuse, try to get power directly to the Fuse Power Tap,

(without the fuse itself being in, just the Fuse Power Tap.)


The correct side is the side where you get NO POWER if there is no fuse present.