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In and out play allowable where CV joint connects to transmission?

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25K views 10 replies 5 participants last post by  sodlzmf123  
#1 ·
Quick question for anyone who has replaced their driver side CV axle:

Long story short, I am trying to save my brothers 2013 Corolla S with an automatic.

The front left wheel bearing disentigrated, and he continued to drive on it until the CV shaft basically welded itself to the steering knuckle.

Had to pull the axle and steering knuckle as a whole, and have new parts to put it back together. However, the new CV axles (I have tried two of them) have about a half inch or so of play in and out of the transmission after seating them in with a mallet. I don't recall the original joint having any play whatsoever, but after putting it back together, there was a random loud metallic banging sound, especially when turning left and right.

It could be that something else suspension wise was damaged as well before hand (needless to say, he doesn't take care of his stuff) but I figured I would see what others experiences were with the axles after putting in new ones, as it's been so long since I did CV axles on my own cars, that I don't recall if a little play was okay or not. Thanks in advance.
 
#2 ·
There’s two types of play on the transmission side. First is the actual CV where the joint will float in and out when you turn your wheel side to side. This is normal.

Second, if the shaft of the CV that goes in the transmission has play, that’s not good. There is a C-Clip that is suppose to hold the shaft in the transmission. This is not good. When it comes to CV axles, OEM only. If you can’t afford that, you can try to rebuild the old axle. I believe outer CV are still for sale.


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#4 ·
There’s two types of play on the transmission side. First is the actual CV where the joint will float in and out when you turn your wheel side to side. This is normal.

Second, if the shaft of the CV that goes in the transmission has play, that’s not good. There is a C-Clip that is suppose to hold the shaft in the transmission. This is not good. When it comes to CV axles, OEM only. If you can’t afford that, you can try to rebuild the old axle. I believe outer CV are still for sale.


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Thanks for the info. The c-clips are present on the axle, and they are engaging into the transmission, but it feels like the area where the c-clips should be engaging into is about an inch wide, rather than holding the axle stationary.

I use nothing but OEM when it comes to suspension, steering, and driveline in my own cars, and suggested it here as well, but the parts are being supplied by my brother (since it is his car) and he doesn't have a pot to pee in and wanted to try alternatives.

I'm just doing him and my family a favor and trying to work with what I've got, but being that the car is maybe worth about $500 in it's VERY dilapidated state, and that there may be a problem with the transmission, I think it may be time for the scrap yard for this particular Corolla!
 
#3 ·
Double check the circlip is seated and you didn’t damage the axle seal on the transmission. To install, just need to rotate the axle until it locks.

You shouldn’t use any hammer on the axle. The force will cause damage to the transmission.
 
#6 · (Edited)
You sure you are thinking of the same axle design? The straight splines that feed directly into the transmission that don't allow the axle to be rotated once it is engaged into the tranny splines?

Granted I am using info from my Camry FSMs, which says "install the axle with a brass bar and hammer" with the same style of CV shaft.

Unless there is some wizardry needed for these newer Corollas that I'm not aware of!?
 
#8 ·
Man,I even tried to buy a subscription to the Toyota TIS for 2 days to try and get the proper repair manual for this car, and they currently have an information lockout on their website due to technical problems. Just a personal gripe, but why can't they just sell me a freaking book li i could get with the 2011 and down models?
 
#10 ·
Got it figured out. After getting the second axle seated using a larger mallet and comparing it to the original CV axle on the passenger side, they both have about 1/8 of an inch in play, but being that the passenger side is the same, I say it's acceptable.

Was able to get it back together and now the banging sound is gone, so thank you guys for your help!

FWIW, the axle that didn't fit worth a damn was from NAPA.
 
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