Big shout out to Turbocat9000 and his subwoofer box. I'm the lucky first person to get one. It hits hard, looks really nice, its solidly made, carpet matches the trunk, and is customizable to your needs. This one is paired with a Pioneer Champion Pro 12", but was told he can make it for just about whatever sub you have (but iirc will work better with subs that need around 1 cuft sealed). Construction like this is not my forte so DM him for pricing and more information.
This is a six speaker base SE hybrid sound system. Not going to get into wire color ect as that it outlined in several other posts here already. I tapped into the metra harness from my dash speakers (so I can leave the factory harness alone) and ran the wires to my center console for full range of signal. I placed the Kicker KEYLOC DSP there under the shifter area just ahead of the center console storage. I used the remote out from the DSP for the amp and the fan mounted to it because I placed it behind the carpeting in the rear right. A lever connector attached to the amp split the power to both. Now originally was going to put everything on the driver side. But since the traction battery is in the trunk on the hybrid not under the hood, i put everything on the right side instead. It also made it so much easier for me to wire. No need to crawl under the dash and drill a hole into the firewall. Removing the carpet and trunk panels, i was able to use the factory ground for the battery that is already there right next to the right tail light. As mentioned I added a spare computer fan to the mix as per the install instructions for the JL 250w amp. I mounted it with some heavy duty velcro strips. I had to add two and three layers of strips to get the amp to even out on the curved body panel but it stayed stuck for 36 hours no problem. The amp does poke into the carpet a tiny bit, but the sub covers it up, and imo its helping keep the amp pressed against the body a little.
I noticed the front doors def had a full range to them and were getting bass from them. Even with a pair of Alpine X3C in the front dash, I still felt it could have used a little more clarity in the highs and mids. I got a pair of 300hz Skar bass blockers from Amazon. Was considering the 600hz, but decided on these and if I didnt like them could always swap them. Again used some lever connectors to the purple (+) wire and used some mounting tape to stick them to the doors. I wrapped them in some foam jic. What surprised me was how much of the bass in the stock front door speakers. With just those installed and no sub yet, most the bass was almost gone from the system. With the sub however, magic happens! Its super clear with many different types of music: rock, rap, trance, alternative. The sub hits really hard, and tight. At higher volumes I have to lower the bass one notch off center. Now at lower volumes before the factory roll-off, it hits too hard, and I had to lower it further in the eq. Im more than likely going to add a volume knob to the sub/DSP because of this. Be sure to get a volume know or RCA level control knob, and not the bass knob for your amp because depending on your amp, it may not do what you want it to do. In my case the knob controls the bass boost, and really will control the volume like I want. The system is not going to win any awards or volume competitions, but for what I did to it/spent, its really really nice and a massive improvement from stock. For what its worth I have a pretty good ear, and a long time ago played first chair bass in a ~74 piece orchestra. Enjoy the pics!
Edit:
I should mention you should solder when you can. I have problems holding small wires after years of working with my hands so soldering is hard for me, especially in confined areas. Lever and twist connectors are easier for me and have little voltage drop. Recently it's come in handy as well because it makes it easier to uninstall and reinstall in a different vehicle.
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This is a six speaker base SE hybrid sound system. Not going to get into wire color ect as that it outlined in several other posts here already. I tapped into the metra harness from my dash speakers (so I can leave the factory harness alone) and ran the wires to my center console for full range of signal. I placed the Kicker KEYLOC DSP there under the shifter area just ahead of the center console storage. I used the remote out from the DSP for the amp and the fan mounted to it because I placed it behind the carpeting in the rear right. A lever connector attached to the amp split the power to both. Now originally was going to put everything on the driver side. But since the traction battery is in the trunk on the hybrid not under the hood, i put everything on the right side instead. It also made it so much easier for me to wire. No need to crawl under the dash and drill a hole into the firewall. Removing the carpet and trunk panels, i was able to use the factory ground for the battery that is already there right next to the right tail light. As mentioned I added a spare computer fan to the mix as per the install instructions for the JL 250w amp. I mounted it with some heavy duty velcro strips. I had to add two and three layers of strips to get the amp to even out on the curved body panel but it stayed stuck for 36 hours no problem. The amp does poke into the carpet a tiny bit, but the sub covers it up, and imo its helping keep the amp pressed against the body a little.
I noticed the front doors def had a full range to them and were getting bass from them. Even with a pair of Alpine X3C in the front dash, I still felt it could have used a little more clarity in the highs and mids. I got a pair of 300hz Skar bass blockers from Amazon. Was considering the 600hz, but decided on these and if I didnt like them could always swap them. Again used some lever connectors to the purple (+) wire and used some mounting tape to stick them to the doors. I wrapped them in some foam jic. What surprised me was how much of the bass in the stock front door speakers. With just those installed and no sub yet, most the bass was almost gone from the system. With the sub however, magic happens! Its super clear with many different types of music: rock, rap, trance, alternative. The sub hits really hard, and tight. At higher volumes I have to lower the bass one notch off center. Now at lower volumes before the factory roll-off, it hits too hard, and I had to lower it further in the eq. Im more than likely going to add a volume knob to the sub/DSP because of this. Be sure to get a volume know or RCA level control knob, and not the bass knob for your amp because depending on your amp, it may not do what you want it to do. In my case the knob controls the bass boost, and really will control the volume like I want. The system is not going to win any awards or volume competitions, but for what I did to it/spent, its really really nice and a massive improvement from stock. For what its worth I have a pretty good ear, and a long time ago played first chair bass in a ~74 piece orchestra. Enjoy the pics!
Edit:
I should mention you should solder when you can. I have problems holding small wires after years of working with my hands so soldering is hard for me, especially in confined areas. Lever and twist connectors are easier for me and have little voltage drop. Recently it's come in handy as well because it makes it easier to uninstall and reinstall in a different vehicle.
