For the stock 4AF "air box"? I know they do.. but what is the point?

 

Because my fuckin air filter is dirty as shit...why else????

 

Heh drop that carb and upgrade
And I used to run my stock carb with nothing on it but the open carb.. no filter or that cap..

Just go to autozone n get a filter for it.. no difference.. or put panti-hose over the carb..

 

true, true. I probably am better off upgrading or taking it off. That thing is just so damn restricting. Kinda like tryin to breathe through a tube w/a rubber band around it..bigger carb it is then...wish i could make it fuel injected...

 

well, EFI is great if you want to drop a shitload of cash into it to get a GOOD programmable system.. I mean I've seen HIGHLY modified 4AG's running 50mpg on the high way because of a GOOD efi system that let the engine run really lean during cruise conditions.

If you want balls stuck to seat speed.. it's carbs. You can run a carburator to extremely high RPM's and not have to worry about mis-fires due to sloppy injection times because of the high rpm.

If u want my weber it's all yours.. I'll help you install everything.

 

Hey if you can gimmie a few weeks or so i'll buy it off of you. I'm in the process of gettin my car inspected. I had to gut my exhaust and do a few other minor things. So i'll be ready to roll soon. Thank god cuz i'm sick of drivin this f-150...

 

what price?

 

I don't know..Think about it and let me know. We'll work something out. I thought you love your webbers..What happened with them? Also did you notice an increase in power after installing? I heard motorcycle carbs work as well (certain ones anyway). -Josh

 

Actually the stock airfilter isnt that restrictive, its just a figment of imagination... running with an open intake will kill your engine very quickly and even faster if a rock or a bigger piece of debris goes through it... bye bye pistons and valves...

 

It's good I never got rocks in my carb

Well, I installed the weber when I had my aftermarket exhaust and cams in.. so I can't really say what your stock gain will be.. I suspect that the primary jet in my weber was to small for my aftermarket exhaust and cams..

It comes with a K&N filter.. and bleh bleh bleh.. idk.. like 230?

 

have you tried routing a cone filter to your carb?

 

Yeah would that work?? I mean taking out the carb filter, cut the tube that brings air in back a little bit, then put a cone filter on the end. Would that be pointless to do?

 

Yes.. it would be absolutely pointless.. It would give you marginal gains but think of it this way.. the carb on that car is 28mm opening at the top.. for the primary and secondary.. I was running a 32/36 (32 prim and 36sec) Weber.. and now I have quad carbs which are 38mm each cylinder.. The carb on the 4AF is made for economy and nothing better.. so putting this filter on it or that filter whatever won't do shit.. I've tried a LOT of shit before I started my mods to make the thing faster and it just won't happen with that carb on there.
I even had a motor on the intake that is used for blowing up inflatable beds.. it's a strong motor considering it can inflate a bed with 230lb's laying on it.. (not me) and that didn't do jack.. I tried cold air intakes routed from the wheel well.. all kinds of stuff.. makes marginal difference.

 

Oh, you could get rid of that carb and at the same time get the late model 4AFE head.. which has better porting for the intake so it has more performance already.. I think it's a late model 4AFE..

Anyway.. you can drop that head right into your block no issues.. everything bolts right back up and u can use your same cams etc etc..

 

imho, it really depends on what you want to do with your car. if you want to go all out, then ditch the OEM carb and go for aftermarket ones (like webber, solex, mikuni or keihins). but if you only after aesthetics and psychosomatic power gains, you can try to retrofit an aftermarket tube intake and filter. it may not give you as much power as changing the carbs, but it sounds nice everytime you step on the accelerator. something like, "fwooooook...fwoooooook...fwoooooook". hehehehehe!

we've been able to retrofit aftermarket tube filters back here in the PI so it shouldn't be a problem for you guys over there. and if you got the parts from here, the whole thing would have cost you less than US$35.

check out the other thread related to this... http://www.toyotanation.com/showthread.php?threadid=28508&forumid=16

 

VooDoo has a point

 

from what year upwards 4af engine has the better head?

and what does 'OEM' stand for?(been driving me nuts trying to figure out what it means)

 

Original equipment manufactuer.. I can't tell you what years the "good" 4af head was on.. later on i'll give you a pic of the head.

 

4A-F never came with the gen 2 head.... doesnt really matter that much, the gen 2 head still has equal flow, just get the EFi from the old 4A-F and do some customizing, unless you want to go aftermarket carb route.

 

http://www.billzilla.org/starleteng.htm

Kudos to the very intelligent Bill Sherwood.

I believe it's a 7AFE head although I am going to confirm with him. I've had a couple emails with him about this head and he says it's from a 4afe engine.. but let me go over it again.

 

This is an email I sent Bill about this..
And this email details his reply to me.

Hi Steve,

>Ok, I've been reading that page from your site and all I can say is
WOW..
>You opened my eyes to a new shade of gray for my 4AF! The question is,
>what engine did you get this head from, a 7afe? I see you talk of one
7afe
>head having the TVIS.. which I don't want to mess with.. Also, will I
need
>to get any block work done to my 4AF for the new F head?

I'm not really sure which engine it comes from as I've never seen that
head
sitting on anything, though I've been told it's from a 4AFE of some
type.
The block you have will work fine with that head.



>Before I install the head I'm of course going to clean it up.. do a
port
>job on the intake side and port n polish the exhaust side.. 3 angle
valve
>job.. anything else? Also, I should be able to use my 244 cams with
the
>new head? Is the C/R any different with this head as well?

No, they don't need much done to them at all.
The cams you have will fit, and the combustion chamber is exactly the
same
as well.



Cheers,
Bill S.


EDIT: *I should mention that I believe that is from a 7AFE engine..*

 

Well considering the F heads for the 4A and 7A engine are the same, it doesnt really matter which engine it was from. Only thing thats different is the block.

 

right.. and apparently the 7A head had a better port design.

The only thing that I can see is the fact that the valve cover studs seem to be in different places.. so you would need to use the 7A's valve cover.. That would sit right on the 4AF block?

 

right.. and apparently the 7A head had a better port design. <- yeah well thats because its based on the 2nd gen 4A design, it has better ports, but ports dont necessarily mean flow. Sometimes making the tunnels smaller will actually increase power output, making them big will reduce flow....minus few exceptions, but a atmo engine relies on flow characteristics, unlike a forceinducted engine. Tuning a F.I engine and a N.A engine are REALLY alot different from each other, and what you do on a turbo engine, well... you wont want to do on a atmo engine, you'd just end up having a pile of shit

 

Well yea.. in a, F.I case you want large ports.. but in N.A small rough surfaced ports give you high velocity and turbulance so you get better fuel to air mixture.. and the higher velocity means more torque.. but as you stretch higher into the RPM band you need a larger port to draw in more quantities of air..
Which was the idea of TVIS.. small ports for low end power and as the RPMs increased the TVIS would open allowing a second intake port per cylinder for more mass flow.