If you can determine which carb is on it then I'm sure there is formal info on it's procedures. In general usually pulling on the choke cable via the knob will open the choke. Couple of stomps on the gas pedal, turn the key and it should start. As the truck warms up push the knob to close the choke. Being a manual choke it's gonna be sorta trial an error depending on how it's set-up.
Is it still using the manual fuel pump?
Those are fun rides, used to help do those swaps pretty regularly many moons ago.
You guys should have a lot of fun with that one.

 

Thanks for the fast reply sdspeed!
Just want to confirm, we should do a couple of stomps on the gas pedal BEFORE turning the key? (I guess this is priming it?)
Then after turning the key, if it's not starting right up, is it OK to press the gas some more while the key is turned, or might this flood it?

I don't know what carb it is, or if the fuel pump is manual. But I'll look into it. I'll post a pic too.

 

IF it has a manual pump then there might have sufficient fuel in the line where using the gas pedal and then turning the key will be the right sequence. But you may have to pull the choke and kinda tease the pedal while cranking since it sounds like it has a manual pump still which runs off the cam tuning.
The choke is fuel mixture not quanity or increase pressure. Just creates a rich fuel air mixture. When started and choke is closed the carb is back on the idle circuit.
2 or 4 barrel. Is the distributor vacuum advance or mechanical?
Not me but easy to understand.
"A manual choke is a mechanical device that links a retractable knob in the driver's compartment, via a cable, to a metal plate inside the carburetor. The metal plate moves to increase or decrease the amount of intake air in order to provide the optimum fuel mixture for the engine."

 

You're right that is an easy to understand definition! thanks much. Makes sense we may need to feel it out when starting it up.

Early today, before knowing to open the choke, it was cranking but wouldn't turn over. Once we realized we needed to choke it, it started up. But now it just clicks when trying to start it - no cranking sound at all. So maybe it's not a problem with flooding the engine, which is what I thought was going on. I checked the battery and it's showing 12 volts on my meter. Maybe it's the starter?

Sorry, I don't know anything about the distributor vacuum - not even sure what it is.

 

No worries about the distributor. 12v is definately borderline to start anything. I'd charge the battery and clean the terminals before throwing parts on it. Can you jump start it with the Silverado?

 

12v is definately borderline to start anything.

OK I didn't realize 12v is considered low. Thanks for that! It's actually showing 11.99v. And I just googled this:
12.66v . . . . . . . . . . 100%
12.45v . . . . . . . . . . 75%
12.24v . . . . . . . . . . 50%
12.06v . . . . . . . . . . 25%
11.89v . . . . . . . . . . 0%

I did try a jump with a small Chevy Prizm but maybe the Prizm is also kinda weak. I'll give it a go with the Silverado tomorrow.

 

Thanks Sailor for your message, I really appreciate the details you've added about using the choke and gas pedal. Your phrase that the choke knob 'chokes off the air' to increase the richness of gas to air mixture is an awesome way for me to visualize what's happening in the carb. Nicely done! I might do as you suggest to look at the choke plate as well. BTW it is an Edelbrok carb.

The good news is we did get the truck started by jumping it, so that is a relief. My multimeter showed the battery was very low, around 11.4 volts. The battery was replaced recently but with a used one. I'll have to keep my eye on it to see if it holds a charge. Thanks also for your feedback about this stuff. I have a couple of cars and a Silverado and I was checking them running to see which one might have a higher voltage for jumping purposes. Turns out they all were reading about 14.5 volts.

The guy who rebuilt the engine did say the alternator should eventually get replaced with a higher output one. Not sure if this has anything to do with it.

 

I was curious about how to test alternator amperage output and looked at the 1988 FSM. I have a 87 but most everything for the two years is about the same. Anyway, the FSM indicates to insert an amp meter into the alternator charging cable and to turn on the headlights to high beam and the heater switch to high. The alternator output amperage should be higher than 30 amps when charging but could be lower if battery if battery is fully charged. Alternators for 1987 and 1988 are listed as 70 amps on O'Reilly's site.

I then looked up in O'Reilly site for a 1982 alternator with 22r and two models are specified. A 40 and 50 amp output. Price for rebuild (only is sold) is about $42 to $55.

If my 1987 pulls 30 amps or so per testing procedure and a 1982 is rated at 40 or 50 amps that does not leave much current for accessories or charging a weak battery assuming load is same between truck years.

I assume the original type Toyota alternator is on your sons truck. If a Chevy alternator is installed then amperage load should be about the same but alternator output would probably be different.

Anyway - now I know how to troubleshoot my alternator if having a problem. I added two large stereo amps a few years ago and so far the original 70 amp alternator (never been replaced) is holding it's own. If I had a 40 or 50 amp alternator it might be an issue, especially listening to my generation of music. LOL. I am 69 years old going strong. I love driving the truck except for the lack of power compared to my 2018 Silverado. Unfortunately, my Toyota will go into storage next month for the winter. I bet that 350 makes that 1982 move!

Regards.

 

Apply choke fully, start engine. Reduce choke amount until engine starts to stall, then add some back until it runs. You are looking for the least amount of choke that allows the engine to run smoothly. Too much and it will get flooded.
When you put it in gear and accelerate the amount of choke applied will be just enough to keep it from hesitating or stalling. Remember too much wastes gas and fouls plugs as well as diluting the oil with unburned fuel.
Another thing to consider is the air cleaner and whether it has the ability to pre heat the incoming air when it gets cold outside. There is a tube that goes from the exhaust manifold to the air cleaner, that has a thermistor that opens it when the engine is cold to warm the incoming air and allow it to atomize the fuel better. In cold temperatures, without that preheater, you can get "carburetor icing" where the fuel does not vaporize and you can not get it running properly.
The test for a functioning preheater is the air cleaner gets hot to the touch when it is working.
The preheater is an essential part of a carbureted engine and should be made functional if you want to get it really running "right" with out tons of unburned hydrocarbons and a practically undriveable vehicle that sucks gas.
My 59 Corvette got 21 MPG highway wit a 350 and a 4 speed with 3.08 rear axle. I tore the 4.11 to pieces in two weeks and bought the 3.08 gear for $25, almost 50 years ago. Also worked on early carbed 240Z cars with the Hitachi SU type carbs. Those old Z's had a manual flap on the air cleaner for preheating and they simply would not run without it working, with the variable venturi carbs.

 

Thanks for the reply Old Mechanic, it's great to get more details on chokes and carburetors. When you say air cleaner, is that the air intake on top of the carburetor? The truck has one that looks like this:

and our mechanic suggested changing it out for one that has a larger opening to the carb to let in more air.
Any thoughts on this?

 

New Tab

This should give you an idea of what I am describing. Not sure that one you showed ever filters the air

 

New Tab

This should give you an idea of what I am describing. Not sure that one you showed ever filters the air

Your link isn't working.

 

Look up manifold preheater air filter. Carburetors have venturis, which speed up air velocity and create a chill factor that prevents complete fuel atomization. No big deal on fuel injection, which works well at just about any temperature, but a big deal with carburetors. Even my 37 Ford (original flathead) had a preheater passageway in the intake manifold. The difference is dramatic when you get warm air going into the carburetor. Fuel atomization improves dramatically.