[2014CamryNC]

2014 Camry SE 2.5L without pushbutton smart key, totally stock, original. Car does not crank, if I jump the starter solenoid it starts. 15 amp starter fuse is good. Checking starter relay pins: #85 has continuity to ground. #86 has power with key in crank position. #87 has continuity to starter solenoid. #30 which should have fused battery voltage has nothing.
Any common problem areas where I should look first?

 

[cj1]

Look at 30A ST/AM2 fuse in the underhood fuse box

 

[2014CamryNC]

I didn't realize there were fuses there, I only saw the mini blade type. Never having seen a Type "C" fuse before I'll wait for daylight and hopefully warmer temps tomorrow to check that. It looks like multiple fuses all on one strip? Dealer only item? Thank You!

 

[2014CamryNC]

I took the fuse box apart and pulled both fusible link buss bars out...... all the fuses checked good with an ohm meter. Any thoughts....suggestions??

 

[cj1]

http://www.bbbind.com/free-tsb has schematic wiring.
Use it to test for voltage on the circuit.
B+ from fuse 30A ST/AM2 to relay good?

 

[2014CamryNC]

Thanks for the schematics link , I was not able to find any!!
Looking at the schematic..... ST relay Pin#1 has ground. Pin#5 has voltage with key in crank position. Pin #3 has continuity to starter solenoid. Pin #2 has nothing, it should be fused battery..... 15 amp starter fuse good. Took fuse box apart, fuseible links on both buss bars check OK. Pin #s refer to http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=998293

 

[REDSOXTICKET]

Look at the AM1 fuse (7.5A) because if that fuse is blown then pin 2 of the relay will get no voltage.
There is also the park/neutral switch that is in the circuit that may need to further investigated if it's working properly or not.

 

[2014CamryNC]

I had the fuse box totally apart..... put it all back together, connected battery, jumped solenoid, it runs and everything else appears to work..... no codes. and I'm no worse off than I was.... rechecked relay pins...... all the same readings. I'm losing light here so in the morning I'll recheck all the blade type fuses than look into the neutral safety switch. Looking at the schematic just earlier it looked like that got fed through that. The first thing I tried the other day was exercising and jiggling the shifter.

 

[cj1]

Just to clarify, pins 3&5 are the relay contact pins and pins 1&2 are the coil relay control pins correct?
When looking at the relay pins themselves 3&5 should be copper colored, pins 1&2 silver colored.

Meter would show continuity 1&2, open 3&5.


If not voltage on pin 2 in crank position then check for v input to P/N switch.


Question : security light off when key inserted?

 

[REDSOXTICKET]

I had the fuse box totally apart..... put it all back together, connected battery, jumped solenoid, it runs and everything else appears to work..... no codes. and I'm no worse off than I was.... rechecked relay pins...... all the same readings. I'm losing light here so in the morning I'll recheck all the blade type fuses than look into the neutral safety switch. Looking at the schematic just earlier it looked like that got fed through that. The first thing I tried the other day was exercising and jiggling the shifter.

Did you check the AM1 fuse located in the fuse box inside of the car under the cluster panel.
The owners manual page 482 states this fuse is for the Starter System

 

[2014CamryNC]

Just to clarify, pins 3&5 are the relay contact pins and pins 1&2 are the coil relay control pins correct?
When looking at the relay pins themselves 3&5 should be copper colored, pins 1&2 silver colored.

Meter would show continuity 1&2, open 3&5.


If not voltage on pin 2 in crank position then check for v input to P/N switch.


Question : security light off when key inserted?

Security light off with key inserted.....yes.
PN swth has voltage going in...... for what it's worth reverse lights work.

Pins 1 & 2 are silver, continuity at 120 ohms. Pin 1 is ground. Pin 2 has nothing.
Pins 3 & 5 are copper and read open. Pin 3 has continuity to starter solenoid. Pin 5 has voltage with key in crank position regardless of shifter position

Relay is lacking the power from Park/neut. swth. What else it runs through from the PN swth to the relay pin I'm not sure.

I jump starter sol. car runs and drives fine, everything appears to work, no codes.

At this point I'm leaning towards leaving it at Toyota tomorrow.

 

[2014CamryNC]

Did you check the AM1 fuse located in the fuse box inside of the car under the cluster panel.
The owners manual page 482 states this fuse is for the Starter System

Double checked all fuses again, under the hood and below panel...... all good.
Popped connector off PNP switch there's voltage going in and for what it's worth the reverse lights work. That's as far as I went with the PNP switch.

 

[REDSOXTICKET]

Hopefully your testing the wiring with the relay removed from the circuit because the relay could be defective ?

Did you bench test the relay?

As a test on continuity;
Disconnect the battery and remove the AMI fuse under the dash board then connect a ohm meter lead to the AM1 pfuse input on the fuse box and the other lead of the ohm meter to pin 2 with relay removed then turn the key to crack position and observe the resistance it should be a low or zero resistance but definitely not open resistance.
If it is an open circuit work your way back.

 

[cj1]

"Pin 1 is ground. Pin 2 has nothing."
Pin 2 should have voltage during cranking.


"Pin 5 has voltage with key in crank position"
Pin 5 should have v directly from fuse/bat.


If v going into P/N and not at pin 2 during cranking then open in either P/N switch or wiring to start relay pin 2 .



Toyota should make short work of this.


Let us know the outcome.

 

[2014CamryNC]

Hopefully your testing the wiring with the relay removed from the circuit because the relay could be defective ?

Did you bench test the relay?

As a test on continuity;
Disconnect the battery and remove the AMI fuse under the dash board then connect a ohm meter lead to the AM1 pfuse input on the fuse box and the other lead of the ohm meter to pin 2 with relay removed then turn the key to crack position and observe the resistance it should be a low or zero resistance but definitely not open resistance.
If it is an open circuit work your way back.

I had one probe of the DMM in the relay junction block while checking so yes relay was removed.

I did not bench test the relay, two pins have 120 ohms, the other two are open....... which is what I would expect. Without getting trigger voltage to relay it seemed a moot point to bench test it.

AM1 fuse has voltage, pin 2 has nothing..... I think it's safe to assume there's no continuity there.

The PNP switch has voltage going in...... the reverse lights work (for what its worth) I can't back probe that connector while it's installed, nor did I want to stab 22 gauge wires. So I can't say if voltage is coming out in P or N. A connector with pigtails would be nice.

Looking at the schematic, it looks to me like it goes from the PNP swth to the ECM...... I think that's a good point for me to quit on it and send it to Toyota.

I did look on RockAuto for a PNP switch.......$316........ it's a pretty basic, standard looking switch to!

 

[2014CamryNC]

"Pin 1 is ground. Pin 2 has nothing."
Pin 2 should have voltage during cranking.


"Pin 5 has voltage with key in crank position"
Pin 5 should have v directly from fuse/bat.


If v going into P/N and not at pin 2 during cranking then open in either P/N switch or wiring to start relay pin 2 .



Toyota should make short work of this.


Let us know the outcome.

Will do!!
They should..... it's nice when you work on the same make cars every day of the week.
I did take a look on RockAuto for a PNP switch........ $316. And I thought some of the Volvo parts were expensive, it's a pretty basic, standard looking switch!

 

[2014CamryNC]

"



Toyota should make short work of this.
Let us know the outcome.

Toyota got it right in and called about an hour later.
The squirrels got a wire under the air box. I did suspect squirrel damage and looked and felt things over but apparently, I missed it. Maybe it was easier to see with it up on a lift. 22 gauge wire doesn't tolerate much squirrel damage!
$300 and it might be done today yet.
I need to get more mothballs
Thanks for the help!!

 

[REDSOXTICKET]

Prior to the time you were having starter trouble was the car a daily driver or was it parked for a prolong period of time?
What were your sign(s) that it was the squirell for this may help others to be aware of such potential problems?
Thanks

 

[2014CamryNC]

Prior to the time you were having starter trouble was the car a daily driver or was it parked for a prolong period of time?
What were your sign(s) that it was the squirell for this may help others to be aware of such potential problems?
Thanks

I just saw this.
I've had problems with the squirrels in 2 of the other cars that don't move as often, the Toyota never stands still for long and they've never bothered it in the past. I have no idea what suddenly made them go after it now.
As far as signs, between the acorns scattered under the hood, along with the firewall insulation chewed it was obvious they were in there.
I scattered moth balls under the hood which has helped keep them out of the other cars........ two days ago they chewed the wires right off the cam position sensor..... grrrr!
I've now escalated to rat traps and a 16 gauge.