2003

 

I checked my junction box, i did not see any relays in there. I know that there are some slight differences after 2003 in the gen 2 avalon. It could be further down behind the dash, there is a big green concealed case it could be in there but i would have to pull part of the dash off to get to it. I dont know why they would make it more difficult to get to then the other relays.

 

You might just short pins 10&11 with a jumper and also short pins 3&5 with a jumper. That is, if the 2003 is like the 2000.

 

I have some male to male jumpers for building breadboard circuits, do you think those would work? If i short it i dont want it to overload and melt something.

 

This problem is exactly why they make meters. Check voltage at the foglight plug and at the fuse. Then check continuity at the plug for the switch.

 

Well i dont have one so i guess i will have to pick one up this weekend. Im sure i will need it again

 

I pulled that plastic cover, and all the fuses are in a diagram on the back of it. It looks like the fog fuse is a 15A fuse that is in the top row and 3rd from the right. You'll want to give that a check for continuity.

 

I picked up a multi-meter the other day. I checked the continuity at both fog lights and there is continuity, I also checked at the fuse here and both the fuse and the fuse socket had continuity. I had that metal plate off and i couldn't see any relays let alone one for the fog lights.

I also checked the continuity at 10 and 11 with the fog switch on and there was continuity. I dont know why, but i somehow forgot to test the socket for the relay pins. Although I am uncertain of how to go about shorting it, i just dont want to cause irreparable damage to anything. Would splicing the wires from the back of the plug work, using a wire splice. i think i have the pin locations correct.

 

OK, I think I have found your problem. What you think is the fog light fuse is really the cigar lighter fuse. I believe that my 2nd picture below is the correct orientation for the fuses. The fog light fuse is the top row and 3rd from the right. Notice that my fuse is a 15A fuse and your fuse is a 10A fuse. I think this is what is causing the problem. Let's say these lights draw about 12 amps of current when they are cold. This is enough to pop your 10A fuse, but it would not pop the 15A fuse which I believe is the proper value. Pull your 10A fuse out of the fuse block with a pair of needle nose pliers. Test it for continuity. If it is an open circuit and has no continuity then it is a blown fuse. Replace it with a 15A fuse. If it has continuity, we will have to dig deeper.

 

Hmmmm I will check on that tomorrow then. I may have at one point threw a 10 amp fuse in there years ago to replace a previously blown 15 amp fuse, I'd rather blow a fuse by putting a lower amp fuse in rather then putting a higher amp fuse in and causing worse damage. The only thing that doesn't make sense about that is when i checked the continuity on the bulb sockets, they weren't reading as open circuits. Wouldn't a blown fuse not complete the circuit. I hope this fixes it; however, it will be kind of embarrassing considering I have almost had everything else apart for such a simple fix.

I got sidetracked earlier because i think i blew one of my HID ballasts when i was troubleshooting the switch socket connections. I had to replace a fuse under the hood, checked the ballast there, checked the switch again. Only to try it with an older ballast i had and find out that it was a ballast that was blown. I guess this is what happens when an amateur messes around with things.

 

You were right. Damn i feel stupid for that. I had so much stuff torn apart for such a simple fix. I was so certain that I had the right fuse location that i didn't even notice that the top one was the wrong fuse. Anyways, thanks for your help.

 

Alright, glad to see you're back in business!

 

Nice job Endzone!!!!!!!!!!!:smile: