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No start problem

2.5K views 57 replies 7 participants last post by  AlmightyToyota2002  
#1 ·
Original problem was occasional overheating.

Replaced radiator, thermostat, water pump, hoping it was not a head gasket or cracked cylinder issue.

Decided to start and let run to operating temp to see if water pump leaked and if overheating issue returned. I did not install any components, covers, dog bone etc.; if in the case the problem was a cylinder head issue, won't have to do another component removal.
I did screw up when trying to start first time after repair. . I forgot to connect the CRANKSHAFT Position sensor.

Started car, looked for leaks or odd noises. Everything normal about 3 minutes. Kept feeling hoses for indications of warm water flow. Sat in car watching the temp gage. Heat through vents, Temp gage stay below 1/2 travel 10 minutes running. Shut off car, go inside house.

Come out, a puddle of oil on the ground. Started car, oil seemed to be coming from Crankcase seal. Lots of oil dripping on ground. DID research, suggested oil pump gasket due to flow of oil. Cleaned area and sure enough, oil flowing out of top of pump next to idler pulley. . Cleaned area to be positive. BINGO. I screwed up, I saw a bolt missing from the top oil pump next to the idler pulley I had removed trying to get the top timing cover off.

Current problem.
Removed and installed new oil pump gasket and seal.
Installed timing belt, triple checked install, Rotated crank 4 times. Timing correct.

Try to start, Cranks but no start. Try couple more times.
Checking timing again. Do a start over. Remove belt, set timing marks cam and crank. Connect and try to start.

Same problem, cranks but no start.
 
Discussion starter · #6 · (Edited)
I have a scanner and will check it when I get home.

Crankshaft sensor seems like the logical problem. When I replaced the oil pump gasket, the only thing removed were timing belt, tensioner and idler pulley.
CS stayed bolted in and no electrical connections were moved or disconnected.

The car was jacked up so the only oil I saw was flowing to the rear of the oil pan. I will pull the sensor to check for oil when I pull the sensor. The harness is completely clean and dry.

Thanks for your suggestions
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Look at your Cps everything still connected and looks ok, a scan tool will be able to see the engine speed during starter cranking to check the sensor.
I only used my scan tool to identify codes and erase them. I don't know how to use it to find out cranking speeds. I am thinking I have to have the scanner connected while cranking the engine but still don't know what program I will need to be in to see the information.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
NO codes listed on OBD2. Probably because I disconnected the neg terminal before removing alternator.

Connect and turned on key. OBD on. Cranked engine. RPM shows about 200 RPM's. I read UTUBE, if the RPM jumps, the Crankshaft sensor is good

Does not act like it even wants to start.

Checked EVERY fuse in car and under hood. ALL good.

Have removed belt and reset three times assuming it was off one cog timing. But then, I am thinking it would be more of a miss fire rather than a no start.
Makes no sense.. Replace water pump, start and run engine 15 minutes. Normal temp reading. See oil leaking. Replace oil pump, reassemble, NOW a No start problem.

Thinking fuel because I don't smell any, or possible ignition coil but that would mean both coils have failed.
I am out of ideas.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
-- Check for spark. Report back.

-- What is the voltage on your battery with the engine not running? Report back.

-- Each time you went back in to re-set the timing (synchronizing the camshaft to the crankshaft), did you put the crankshaft at TDC on Cyl #1, and check to see that the camshaft was at TDC (or possibly 180 degrees off)? I am wondering if you are not setting the timing belt tension correctly, so the timing belt is slipping.

-- Inspect the crankshaft sprocket as shown below. Is the reluctor tooth damaged?
https://sites.google.com/site/ellessite/starting-problems/CKPReluctorAllOld.jpg

https://sites.google.com/site/ellessite/starting-problems/CKPReluctorAllNew.jpg


-- Rotate the crankshaft to align the CKP reluctor with the CKP sensor. Look at the gap between the reluctor and sensor. The gap should be close to about 1.14mm ( = about 0.045 inch). Report back.
NO SPARK

Confirmed #1 TDC timing mark matches. Rotated full turns four times. Crank and Cam marks synchronized.
Misplaced my feeler gage so did not measure gap
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
Appreciate your helping me solve this problem.
I do have the twin electrode spark plugs.

Once I was able to start the car after removing the neg terminal and jumping through hoops to get the car started, when I found the oil pump leaking problem, I left the battery terminals hooked up knowing there was limited chance of touching hot to ground wire.

That is why I am stumped. I did not remove, connect, disturb any thing except remove the timing belt and replace the oil pump seals. Then install belt and try to start the car.

I will do a full read of the manual you sent me and respond to my findings each step.
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
did a test.

reading of 1.9,2.0,1.8 while holding leads on the two terminals.
cold reading should be 985-1600 ohms

Took sensor off car. Same readings

Not sure if I was doing it right, took to auto Zone. They did the test, same readings. Told me it was bad because it was outside the limits.

So have ordered a new crank and cam sensor. Even if it turns out both were not the problem, I wont have to pull the lower cover again. I did not do a cam sensor test or ignition module, or coils.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
NEW.. Water Pump, Tensioner, Pulley, Belt, Radiator, Thermostat.
When replaced, did not attach components, covers, etc. Started and ran to operating temp, then noticed oil dripping from oil pump area. Cleaned off, restarted to confirm probably gasket leak.. Replaced the oil pump gasket and seal.
Set timing, . Would not start.
Checked the Crankshaft sensor. Out of tolerance limits. Ordered new one. Received late yesterday, tested and within tolerance limits. Have not installed yet to test for start or spark.
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
Not All tests,

Member sent me Service Manual procedure to download and test procedure.
Suggested I start with Crank sensor/ Camshaft sensor first tests. Since I had worked around the CKS area. CKS tested OUTof specs. Ordered new one. Assuming this was the problem, Have NOT tested Cam sensor.
While waiting on Crank sensor, tested coils, plug wires, high tension cords. ALL are within tolerances.

Have NOT done the POWER SUPPLY to IGNITION COIL TEST. If bad, I have no idea how to check wiring or replace.
I just saw that I missed another test AFTER the Crank and Cam sensor tests. 🤬🤬🤬

CHECK IGT SIGNAL FROM ECM.
Have no access to the page DI-22 to testing information

I am really ready to toss my hands in the air and give up. I go from an overheat issue, to a replace all cooling system components and start engine to check normal operation. Engine starts and now normal temp after 10 minutes running, see a puddle of oil on ground. Trace to oil pump seal failure.
Remove timing belt, replace oil gasket and seal. Nothing removed, nothing replaced, no connectors disconnected, battery terminal remain connected because I did not want to go through the hassle to reset the car alarm.