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o2 sensors for 1998 Camry LE V6

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6.1K views 17 replies 9 participants last post by  Kingdom934  
#1 ·
Getting ready to replace the O2 sensors in my 1998 Camry LE V6 but wondering if someone could help me locate the specific ones I would need online.

The 1998 V6 has three sensors, correct? Two before the converter and one after? I'm shopping on Amazon, so if someone could send me a link to the three sensors I would need I would really appreciate it. Or at least give me a tip as to how I can figure out which sensors are which.
 
#3 · (Edited)
As Stillrunning asked, why are you replacing all 3? Is the check engine light on?... what codes?

Correct, your Camry has three sensors. Need to know if it has CA emissions or Federal emissions. Highly recommend Denso brand sensors, as they're the OEM supplier to Toyota...

CA:
Upstream rear - 234-9007
Upstream front - 234-9009
Downstream - 234-4137

Federal:
Upstream, both front & rear - 234-4622
Downstream - 234-4137
 
#4 · (Edited)
I will repeat what the guys above said. Do NOT get anything except Denso. I've read too many stories of people trying to save a few bucks. In my books, O2 Sensors/AF sensors/Knock Sensors is something you do not want to skimp on.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00390BS7C?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s02

You may want to consider picking up a tool like this. This tool works great for the Camry. At lease I was able to access the rear bank up stream of the 1MZ for a 95 without much issue and able to remove the downstream from the car being on the floor ramps in my '98.


To replace the downstream sensor, you'll have to remove your driver seat and leave it out of the car or shove it in the back. The wiring for the O2 is underneath the carpet near the rear bottom airvent (underneath driver seat). I peeled back my carpet from the center console out since there is the rubber grommet that the cable runs into. You will also need to transfer the plastic clip that the cord attaches to underneath the car or simply zip tie it to it. I was able to transfer the clip to the new sensor wire.

The downstream O2 Denso (http://www.amazon.com/Denso-234-413...0C5UFQ2/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1451493974&sr=1-1&keywords=234-4137) comes with a small packet of anti-sieze. I think it should be more than enough for the one plug - I still had a good amount left even after putting a nice amount of the thread of the new O2 sensor.

Any particular reason your changing the O2 sensors? For me I have a P0420 code and the downstream sensor was still original. PO said that his mechanics said that he has a bad cat...but I figure why not give it a shot. Well with the new O2 sensor, same code, so I'm replacing the cat.
 
#5 ·
When I bought the car about 4 months ago the check engine light was on and I had my friends dad check the car out at his shop before I bought it and the code for the check engine light came up as an O2 sensor.

Can't remember what the code was, but he checked the sensors that day and told me one of them was bad and needed to be replaced. I figured since it's an old car I might as well replace all three, since I'm sure the other two won't take too long to fail as well.
 
#7 ·
Stillrunning -

Have you purchased from there before? Never heard of it. I checked out there website and it looks more like a forum then an online parts store haha. Just want to make sure they are legit. The sensors I need are a little over $100 on autozone and only a little over $50 on rockauto, so just wondering if it's too good to be true!
 
#9 ·
Yes, rockauto is legit. I would imagine most of the forum members here have ordered from them, myself included. They are usually (but not always) cheaper than your local parts store.
 
#8 ·
Okay, that would make sense.

Either way, stick with Denso sensors.
 
#10 ·
#17 ·
The Factory Service Manual Hands Down

Yep Three. Not too terrible to do but the Bank 1 Sensor 1 (nearest the firewall) is a pain. Important: These sensors threads often seize coming out. It helps to soak with penetrating spray for an hour or two then start the car and run for a couple of minutes. Once engine is warm but cool enough to work with then start removal. Some need a good cheater bar as well. hope this helps
 
#18 ·
I tend to buy smaller items from Rockauto is shipping and part comes out significantly cheaper than Amazon. Shipping is faster with Rockauto, but it is also a lot more expensive for me if I go larger items. It's great when I can get heavier items shipped from amazon for FREE when shipping from rockauto would run me about $30-50.

Yep Three. Not too terrible to do but the Bank 1 Sensor 1 (nearest the firewall) is a pain. Important: These sensors threads often seize coming out. It helps to soak with penetrating spray for an hour or two then start the car and run for a couple of minutes. Once engine is warm but cool enough to work with then start removal. Some need a good cheater bar as well. hope this helps
*knock on wood*

I didn't have too much trouble with the rear 1MZ sensor near the firewall for a 1995 Camry. It does help if you have the right tool AND if it doesn't strip/sieze. Again, I've been lucky with them not being stuck!

I've used the Powerbuilt 648691 Oxygen Sensor Offset Puller and it has worked great on the bank 1 sensor 1 plug near firewall and the one underneath the car.