Hi, is this a 4 or 6 cylinder camry?

 

Hi.

It is a 1998 4 cylinder Camry LE.

 

Ok, the 4 cylinders have common leak areas.

1, Oil sump gasket

2, Valve cover gasket.

3, Oil pump spaghetti gasket.


We have 2 Camrys, both leaked oil from the oil pump spaghetti gasket. It is a very common cause of leaks on Camrys.

You may be able to slow the leak down by using some ATP AT-205 and use high mileage oil such as Maxlife. These slowed our leaks down.

However, my best guess is you need to change the oil pump gasket - which is part of a timing best change.


We don't here many reports of the rear main seal failing but it is possible.

 

Ok, the 4 cylinders have common leak areas.

We have 2 Camrys, both leaked oil from the oil pump spaghetti gasket. It is a very common cause of leaks on Camrys.

You may be able to slow the leak down by using some ATP AT-205 and use high mileage oil such as Maxlife. These slowed our leaks down.

However, my best guess is you need to change the oil pump gasket - which is part of a timing best change.


We don't here many reports of the rear main seal failing but it is possible.

I have used ATP AT-205. Pls try it once before going any further. At worst, you will lose 10 dollars.

 

Toyota Camry oil pump seal

 

Thank you for that info! I am pretty sure it's not the valve cover gasket, it's deff coming from somewhere down below under that.

Is it expensive to have a shop replace an oil pump gasket?

Thank you.

 

Is it expensive to have a shop replace an oil pump gasket?

I don't know what a shop will charge you. The timing belt has to come off to get access, so its several hours work and that is going to cost.

 

Thank you. I am starting think it may just be better to sell it as a mechanics special next month. We are moving to California next month anyways. I am trying to figure out weather it is worth fixing and if not, weather I should sell it or sell it to one of those "we buy junk cars" places.

 

another place this can be coming from is the crankshaft main seal, after so many miles they harden and oil slips right by them, once they get hard they crack when u buy a new one it should feel soft and bendy, urs looks like its coming from that seal and the valve cover gasket

 

Also meant to mention, it has 167k miles.

And me and my fiance replaced the starter ourselves and put a brand new battery in it, the week we bought it, during a time when we had better finances to spend on a car....figures this oil leak would happen now when we can't afford to do much. :/

 

The seal kit costs $6 online. Learn to DIY, there are how to guides on here. Bicycles don't leak oil, best way to save money.

 

First thing I would do is get some engine degreaser and spray liberally where all that oil is. Wait 15 min and rinse with a hose. That will give you a semi clean surface and after a short drive a better indication where it is coming from.

 

Thank ya'll for all of the advice. Can anyone point out where the oil pump is? Is it visible in any of my photos? Can anyone draw an arrow to it or circle it in my photo? I have no idea what I am looking for.

 

Its under the timing belt cover, you cant see it without removing it. If its leaking directly below the crankshaft pulley thats your problem.

As other have said, try AT 205 sealer before abandoning the car. It might slow it down a bit.

The oil pump seals should be about $400 to change at a shop,which includes a new timing belt and water pump.

 

If the car is leaking as much as you indicated, it would have a puddle of oil on the ground where you park the car. Where this puddle is located at relative to the car can help you find out where actually the oil is coming from or if it is burning through the engine because of harden valve seals or PCV system. Your picture shows oil around the engine but not enough to use up 1/2 Qt in one day. If it is leaking from the oil pump, the oil dipping on the ground would be closer to the right wheel area. Do you have any picture of the engine facing the front of the car?

 

Thanks again for all the advice/help.

Right now we have absolutely no funds to have a shop fix it (we're looking for jobs, which are very sparse in Fort Pierce, Fl!}
So we will give the AT 205 a try.

I will also try to get more photos tomorrow, those are all I have for now.

 

There is a two part DIY on changing Timing Belt & Oil Pump gasket somewhere on this forum but I can't seem to find it. If someone can find and post it may be helpful.

 

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...-1996-1997-2001/428257-part-1-timing-belt-oil-seals-replacement-w-pictures.html

Here is the combo one.

 

If you're planning to move to California. They have their own STRICT emissions standards, one of the worst in the country. Suggest to sell the car off of craigslist, and purchase something when you get out there that's emission certified.

 

Clean the outside of the entire engine. You'll find the leak. They also make uv due that lights up fluorescent under a blacklight...

 

I have a 95 Camry. It had a rear main leak, that leaked into the transmission thru a worn out input shaft leak. I couldn't figure out it for the longest time how the transmission oil kept turning the color of honey. I swapped out the engine with another, with new oil pump, water pump, Bearings and seals, and pan cover gaskets. You Guessed it, I Still Have an oil Leak burning on the exhaust pipe, the smell getting into the car. I'm losing 1.5 quarts of oil per tank of gas.

 

royengle

Use a combination of Maxlife High milage oil and ATP AT 205 (available from Amazon). That may slow things down for you.

 

I have tried to slow down the leak by adding oil additives, like Lucas oil Stabilizer, or expensive seal conditioners. Still leaks, losing additives.