This code is sometimes fixed with a fluid exchange. I know you said it's relatively clean, but before replacing parts, I'd flush out all the fluid using the low-pressure cooler line method. Make sure to use an ATF sped'd for T-IV.

 

This code is sometimes fix with a fluid exhange. I know you said it's relatively clean, but before replacing parts, I'd flush out all the fluid using the low-pressure cooler line method. Make sure to use an ATF sped'd for T-IV.

I've been exclusively using Toyota World Standard since it's the OEM transmission fluid. And I hadn't heard of that method, so i will try that, thank you.
It's got 215K miles on it, and i got it from my sister with 200K and it hadn't seen a single transmission fluid exchange since it came off the lot until I got it, so the fluid is honestly the most likely culprit.
I just figured doing it thoroughly by replacing the filter while I was at it would be the most responsible course of action to guard against further damage.

 

Just see how it performs on the filter change and drain and fill. Take pictures of the pan and magnets.

How does the transmission shift through the gears? Any clunking or hard shifting?

 

I'll be doing the transmission drain and fill this Friday, as well as the filter change, and I'll be taking pictures of the magnets and pan. Thank you so much for y'all's help and wisdom, as I'm trying to tackle both the P0741 and P0441 codes at the same time.

 

as I'm trying to tackle both the P0741 and P0441 codes at the same time.

P0441 is an evap code for incorrect purge flow. It's often the purge valve which has gone faulty. There are tests you can do on the valve to verify it's bad before spending money and replacing it. If you need help with that let me know.

 

@jmcurry042 ,

Also check the hoses connected to the purge valve. Might be plugged up with carbon/gunk or leaking.

If the original intake manifold gasket has never been replaced with the updated orange-colored Toyota gasket, that can also cause P0441.

 

One of the tests for the connector is this: Turn the ignition switch to "on". Then you check for voltage with one of your probes of your multimeter on terminal #1 of the disconnected wire harness side of the connector. The other probe of your multimeter does NOT go on #2 of the connector. It goes to any body ground. Do not check for resistance. You should get a result between 11 - 14 volts. If it's less or more than that range, then the culprit is the wire harness or connectors between the purge VSV and the ECM.

If the result is between 11 - 14 volts, then you can check for resistance ONLY after disconnecting the harness at the ECM. Do NOT check for resistance if the harness is still connected to the ECM. When looking up which connector on the ECM to disconnect, make sure you don't get disoriented on the placement. The manual shows the connectors at the ECM, BUT on some/all of the Gen 9 Corollas, the ECM is installed at the factory UPSIDE DOWN. So if the manual shows a diagram with the connector on the far left disconnected, it is the opposite on the ECM which is installed upside down, so it's the one on the far right. I can get you the other test info if you need.

 

So... I hadn't read this before I tested it... I tested #1, perfectly 12V. Was unaware that it needed to be disconnected from the ECM first and tested for resistance... How likely is it that I damaged something?

 

How likely is it that I damaged something?

Well I don't know for sure, but some years ago when I tested for resistance on a harness related to the EGR system on my daughter's '97 Camry which was connected at the other end to the ECU, it fried that particular part of the ECU. After pulling my hair out going through all the diagnostic steps and replacing the bad parts, I replaced the ECU with one from the junkyard. Fixed. I then found out that for some harness connectors, you should not test for resistance if the other end is still connected to the ECU/ECM. When checking for resistance, you should follow EXACTLY as the manual instructs. Some might check for resistance after removing the harness connector at the ECM, but if they didn't realize the ECM is installed upside down, they might have disconnected the wrong harness and then tested for resistance while the correct harness was still connected to the ECM.

I'll send you a link in a private message for the repair diagnostic procedures:

 

@jmcurry042

Those hoses are BAD. They definitely need to be replaced. They are compromised all the way through, not just the cracks at the ends.

Hopefully you didn't fry anything. When I fried the Camry ECU years ago, it only fried that one particular aspect of it. It otherwise worked fine but the CEL would not go away (because that part of the ECU had been fried). Hopefully you did it so quickly that it didn't cause an issue.

I just sent you a PM, btw.

 

Alright everyone, been a while. But I'm back, with great news! Did the transmission drain and fill and filter replacement today, and attached are pictures of the used fluid, the pan after just removing it, as well as close ups of the OEM filter that came off of it.
By the end of it all, 4.5 Quarts came out of the transmission, still looking good, but there's no point in putting old fluid into a new filter.
Took the filter off, gave it a look and a feel, decided I was glad I bought a new filter, and bolted the new one on there.
I cleaned the inside and outside of the pan thoroughly, as well as the area where the pan gasket meets the transmission, then put the pan back up, that took a while, not gonna lie.
Getting the gasket to stay in place while getting a bolt started took a bit of patience. Once everything was put back up, i snugged the pan bolts up finger tight, then went around twice very lightly with a ratchet, then got my digital torque wrench and torqued all the bolts in a criss cross pattern to 48 In-Lbs. Put the drain plug and new drain plug gasket back on and snugged it up until it was Good and Tight, didn't torque it as what i did was definitely tight enough. Added the fluid, checked level, started it up, backed it up off the ramps, and checked level again after going through the gears, and then took a test drive to the gas station, then to work to return some stuff I borrowed from the shop, and then to OREILLYs to return a quart of fluid I didn't end up needing. TLR, it runs great, as I always put 1000% diligence into my DIY work.
The machine spirit is pleased.

 

I’ve got this same code popping up on my car. I had to replace the shift solenoids then I followed it up with trans tune by seafoam. Drove it for a few miles then replaced the trans filter and fluid. Code kept on popping up every 150k so I did a complete flush. Added some transtune or lubeguard to give the ATF more friction and the code pops up less frequent but that’s cuz I drive it everyday doordashing and going far places. I noticed too that my shifts are fine so the only culprit left now it could be the actual torque converter itself and that’s a job and a half I don’t have time for. It comes on faster with high throttle and overdrive but for now it rides and I’ll get to it when I have time or save up to take it to a mechanic

 

I haven't replaced the shift solenoid yet, but at this point I may not need to, as the only times it's popped up since I changed the filter and fluid was a cross city trip of about 200 miles.

 

I would just suggest checking it with a obd scanner every so often. I don’t know about anyone else that’s dealing with this specific code but once I clear the check engine light, it comes up as a pending code a few times then after a while the light comes back on. It sucks for me that it’s looking like a actual torque converter itself cuz I done tried everything but what’s been helping the light come on less frequent was some additives I added to the ATF

 

To be fair, I plan to do a lot to the Rolla, so if need be, I'll replace the TC, it's not outside my wheelhouse after all.