Looks like it to me.
Use the VIN and cross check the p/n here:

ToyoDIY.com

 

Did you replace the pressure control solenoid SL2. I have a 2004 Camry LE that is having the same problem. I was wondering if replcing the solenoid helped. I'm trying to avoid a hefty repair bill. The code I got was P0776 Pressure Control Solenoid B Performance Or Stuck Off.

 

Did you get it forgives out? I have the same issue.

 

Did anybody solve this issue? I’m having the same exact problem and need help. Cant afford to drive anything else at the moment.

 

Can you do some electrical testing of the solenoid?

 

OK I figured my issue out. After much research I discovered that a common issue with the Camry and transmission shifting improperly is due to the ECU. I swapped out the ECU with a used one from the junkyard same year make model and transmission are and it’s solved my problem. No more hard shifting.

You’ll need to swap out the ECU with a used one that has the identical serial numbers on it. Once you put it in there is a ECU reset procedure. It is very simple. You just need to take a paper clip and put it in pens 14 and 13 on the OBDII port turn the key to the on position and let it sit for 30 minutes. Once to 30 minutes is up turn the key off pull the clip out and start it.

 

Did anybody else try swapping the ecm?? I’m hanging the same issue with hard shifting. I swapped transmission n have to figure out this out. I don’t have. 2 k scanner. Thank you

 

Send the ECU off for a rebuild. That’s what I did with mine. It got flashed with the latest firmware too which improved my 1-2 shift (known vibration issue that they released an update to resolve). Getting a used one increases the chances you will have this happen again. And the limp mode is very much a LIMP mode…hard to get it to go anywhere! Mine was like $500ish to rebuild. Figured out I needed that after a trans shop swapped the trans and they replacement did the same thing. They put the original trans back in, basically said “we give up, here are the keys”, and I had it towed to a reputable Toyota/Lexus shop in my area. They are the ones who shipped off the ECU. Gotta find a place that specializes in repairing/rebuilding them. Make sure they flash the latest software on it!

 

2004 Camry XLE 350k miles, throwing P0776 code.

Seeing the ECU can be the problem. How does one go about getting the ECU refurbished? Took the car to a transmission shop and they quoted $3100 for new transmission which I’m not spending, especially if it’s a cheaper fix. We purchased this car new in 2003 and it’s been running great until this. Thanks in advance for the help.

 

Is the trans in limp mode? Should be difficult to accelerate (starting in 3rd gear) and might have some clunking too. Won’t shift up or down at all. And fluid should look OK.
Unfortunately, the shop that shipped mine off didn’t tell me who they sent it to…if you really need the specific place (I’m in USA) I can call them and see tomorrow haha

 

It’s a difficult one to diagnose because it sure feels like a failed trans. It feels so awful starting in 3rd LOL. Wasn’t driveable except a little up and down the street. I didn’t even let the tow truck driver drive it when it was towed (both times)
If your trans has been well-maintained and never run low on fluid, it’s probably the ECU

 

It’s a difficult one to diagnose because it sure feels like a failed trans. It feels so awful starting in 3rd LOL. Wasn’t driveable except a little up and down the street. I didn’t even let the tow truck driver drive it when it was towed (both times)
If your trans has been well-maintained and never run low on fluid, it’s probably the ECU

Thanks for your reply. It’s limping somewhat and shift from 1-2 is hard. Threw the code and now check engine light. We’ve babied this car and can say impeccable care! Just moved up to an SUV and the only reason I’m selling it. I checked some salvage yards locally and they have 9 Camrys on the lot, so if it doesn’t reset today, I was considering an ECU from the salvage yard for $30-$50.

 

P0776 indicates possible fault in shift solenoid valve SL2.
Valve can be electrically tested for movement.

 

We disconnected the battery for an hour to get the idle and reset so check engine light was out. Drove it around and was still hesitant shifting from 1 to 2. Semi hard shifting from 3rd. Check engine light remained off.

 

Yeah that’s different than the issue I had. When was the last time trans fluid was changed? Have you checked the fluid level and condition?

 

The easiest way to tell between a mechanical (transmission) or electronic failure is how quickly it happened.
For example, when my 04 Camry transmission quit shifting, it was sudden. I had driven it to work that day, drove around on my lunch break, and the first few minutes into my drive over to a coworker’s house were all perfect. I turned onto a road, then it just started clunking. I pulled over, and found it would just clunk and would slowly move forward. The transmission shop later told me that it was doing that because it was starting in 3rd gear instead of first, which is what it does when it’s in limp mode.

Now a mechanical failure would have been different. For example, my dad’s 99 Honda Odyssey. Over the period of a year or two, it gradually started developing a slip when cold. A slip, feels like your car momentarily goes into neutral between gears. So you’re accelerating, accelerating, car starts to shift, VROOM into neutral, then CLUNK into the next gear.

So what we need to determine here is how quickly this developed. Have you had any issues lately? Transmission not feeling as smooth, clunking (especially when you shift into drive or reverse, clunking as you come up to a stop or after you stop (delayed shift) etc)

Sorry, lots of info here. Not a mechanic but I’ve done a lot of research on transmissions since my family for the longest time only had old cars LOL

 

The easiest way to tell between a mechanical (transmission) or electronic failure is how quickly it happened.
For example, when my 04 Camry transmission quit shifting, it was sudden. I had driven it to work that day, drove around on my lunch break, and the first few minutes into my drive over to a coworker’s house were all perfect. I turned onto a road, then it just started clunking. I pulled over, and found it would just clunk and would slowly move forward. The transmission shop later told me that it was doing that because it was starting in 3rd gear instead of first, which is what it does when it’s in limp mode.

Now a mechanical failure would have been different. For example, my dad’s 99 Honda Odyssey. Over the period of a year or two, it gradually started developing a slip when cold. A slip, feels like your car momentarily goes into neutral between gears. So you’re accelerating, accelerating, car starts to shift, VROOM into neutral, then CLUNK into the next gear.

So what we need to determine here is how quickly this developed. Have you had any issues lately? Transmission not feeling as smooth, clunking (especially when you shift into drive or reverse, clunking as you come up to a stop or after you stop (delayed shift) etc)

Sorry, lots of info here. Not a mechanic but I’ve done a lot of research on transmissions since my family for the longest time only had old cars LOL

Thanks for your reply. Sudden occurrence. No limp or slipping previously whatsoever. Car has been excellent until this.

 

Check fluid level with engine running. Not gonna be able to get a great read since it can’t be driven but it should hit around the cold line.
I’d say go get the Engine computer (ECU) tested. The transmission control module is integrated into that. I called the shop that sent mine off and they said they use a few different places so they couldn’t recall which place they had sent my ECU off to. But any place that does that repair will bench test it to confirm what part has failed, repair it, then flash the latest software on it. My transmission actually shifts better after the repair than before the failure. The new software fixed a 1-2 shift vibration I had too!

 

I had the same issue, replaced the transmission with a junkyard transmission from a rollover wrecked car with 87,000 miles. I had the same problem after, acted exactly the same. Found a junkyard ECU with matching numbers and that ended up fixing it. I wish I had tried the computer first, it was $50, the trip to junkyard, and 5 minutes to install. Jumper pins 4 and 13 on the odb2 connector under the dash for 30 minutes with ignition on after to pair the security system.

 

What year is your Camry?

 

2004 Toyota Camry LE with 245K miles and fault code PO7776 regarding transmission solenoid issue. The problem was an intermittent failure of the ECU. Replaced the ECU with a $72 one from a wrecked Camry of the same year and model. The three identification numbers on the ECUs were identical. Replacing the ECU involved disconnecting the battery ground cable, removing the plastic shield beneath the glove box (pull downward to disengage three plastic clips), removing the four 10-mm nuts holding the ECU in place, and then numbering and disconnecting five wiring connectors. Worked ECU through opening between installed location and floor. No reprogramming of the ECU was necessary. Reinstalled ECU, started engine, and car drove as it should. Difficult to diagnose but relatively easy and inexpensive to fix. Hope this helps!

 

9 times out of 10 it's the ECU. I have a 2004 Solara SE with the 2.4L 4 cylinder, and I found it the hard way. I called a mechanic and asked him how much he would charge for replacing a solenoid, and the guy said well it's usually a much bigger problem like an ECU. Made me think replacing an ECU is harder than it really is. Anyways, I didn't listen and paid $250 to get the solenoid replaced at a different shop but it didn't fix the problem. I ordered the ECU with the same part # from ebay at $30. In contrary to what the mechanic said, the ECU already had the software. After installing the ECU, the car would crank but the engine wouldn't start because the new ECU won't recognize the key, there's something called an immobilizer. However there's a very simple trick to getting the key reprogrammed. Just jump OBD pins #4 and #13, turn ON the car and wait 30 minutes. Take the jumper out, and the key should work. Someone made a video on programming the key. Here's the link:

 

Thank you for everyone above for posting the ECU swap - I had the same issues and that fixed it for me. Here was my experience:

2004 Camry LE 2.4 4cyl - shifting first into second would be extremely slow/a very hard shift to where the entire car would jolt. This symptom of hard shifting was not something that slowly progressed, it happened out of nowhere and was abrupt. Also, I had to accelerate really hard when stopped to get the car moving and it would struggle to move and rev kind of high in 1st and sometimes 2nd. Once you get into second gear though everything was fine, I could cruise up to highway speeds and the shifting was smooth thereafter with no problem, was just the 1st into 2nd and vice versa. Few minutes later the check engine light came on and the OBD2 threw the PO776 code. The mechanic I brought it to suggested to get a new Solenoid in the transmission as he assumed that was most likely the issue. Don't remember the last time the tranny fluid was flushed, but it looked clean as it should so that did not seem to be of any issue.

I did some digging before throwing a ton of money to get the solenoid done and found this thread. Seems like people here were having the same exact symptoms so I went the route of swapping the ECU first. To note, the ECU that was in my car was part number 89661-06A00, it was impossible to find this exact one at any junkyard/salvage/used auto parts places by me. I eventually found one but part number 89661-06A02. From I what I read online and after calling Toyota It seemed like this one should work, the one ending in 02 superseded the one I had in my car ending in 00, but was the same fit and SW I believe. Also, the one ending in 02 was pulled from same year, model, engine size etc. I proceeded with the swap as stated above in BillClos post. Car started right up, I let it idle for a few min, proceeded to drive off and everything was back to normal. When stopped at a light the idle was rough for a few minutes, though that slowly faded away. I read somewhere else that you should let the car run for at least a half hour after first starting it so the computer can re-learn how to idle, and anything else computer/engine related. I did not need to do anything with the immobilizer or key recognition though. That might be only for XLE versions or for the cars that have keys with chips? Pretty sure my key is not chipped so I did not have to do anything with that. Key and remote lock worked as usual.

Also hope this helps someone out

 

Rough idle after unhooking the battery means it’s time for a throttle body cleaning. Clean the MAF too. Use cleaners that are specified for both. Glad your transmission issue is fixed!