Toyota Forum banner

Possible Parasitic Draw - tried all possible options

146 views 5 replies 4 participants last post by  98LE2.2LCamryUS  
#1 ·
Hi All,

160K mile, NO aftermarket items, original owner. Replaced battery (costco) 3 times in the last 2 year. Last battery on June 2024, Car ran great for a few months. Sat for a week and battery is dead. Jump started, ran for a few weeks, sat couple of days and battery dead.
Alternator is about 5 year old (bought from Toyota Dealer).
1. Took out alternator, autozone tested and said ALL GOOD
2. Used a multi-meter and diod test is OK (shows reading when red wire is connected to body and COM is connected to BAT Post. Reverse the leads,and multimeter shows 0)
2a. while running the car, I see 14.59v at the battery/alternator terminal. over 10A using a clamp meter at the battery post.
3. set up multi meter in series to test amp draw. I saw 30mA, which seems like a normal draw from multiple forums in this group.
3a. Only DOM fuse has any impact on draw. All other fuses pull (engine bar and inside the car) shows 30mA draw.
4. When DOM fuse is pulled, it drops to 10mA), all other fuses have no impact on amp draw
5. No lights on (including trunk light, dom light etc)

Costco is saying something is drawing the battery and from all these tests and info from similar issues here, I don't think it is true.

Couple of Questions to the experts here:
1. with a 30mA draw, should the battery be draining if I don't drive the car for a week or two?
2. Any other things that I need to test if this is indeed a draw?

Appreciate any help on this as I am planning to give this car to my son as his first car.

John
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Is it a hybrid? Chasing down electronic gremlins can be a nightmare. Years ago, my Dad's new Avalon was killing her battery...turned out there was a light in the truck that was turned on and if the car wasn't driven often (they are retired) it would have a dead battery.
In older cars, finding a bad ground can be the cause but can be very hard to find.
not a hybrid, just a regular 4 cylinder
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
30mA should be ok for several weeks, but it is still kind of high. Ideally, after all of the ECUs go to sleep it should be less than 10mA.

Try your test again, with all of the doors and hood closed, and see what it is after 20 min or so just sitting with nothing open or in use. If it stays up at 30mA, and if it is the Dome lamp circuit that has been identified as the culprit then I'd start looking at each of the things on that circuit:

  • remove each of the courtesy switches and clean the contacts and ground point (a partial short in one of the switches would be my #1 suspect)
  • confirm there is nothing plugged into the cigarette lighter (and nothing stuck inside of it)
  • make sure no icon is illuminated on the combi meter (unlikely, as you would have mentioned it, just listing all of the things on that circuit)
  • confirm your clock display, and the ignition key illumination ring, are not illuminated while the ignition is off (these are also on the dome circuit)


Note that the dome circuit (red wire) goes into the integration relay (mounted to the fuse block below the driver's IP) and if there was a partial short inside there somewhere it might be necessary to replace that with a different one from a salvage yard to confirm if that made a difference in the current draw. Rule out the above stuff first.


Norm
Thanks Norm.

I ran the test after 30 min of shutting down and closing all doors. The only thing that was open was the hood. I will jam something in the hood latch and rerun the test in a week or so (car is with son). For a good measure, I removed the DOM fuse for now (except keyless entry and radio/clock reset) everything else is working as expected and draw is now 10mA.