I'm not sure I'd suspect an electrical or computer problem going to the motors. The drivers door is on its own output from the body ECU, the passenger front, and both rear doors are all on a separate single output. The motors don't share a connector after leaving the body ECU.

If its repeatable, you could tear the door apart and see if the signal is going to the motor.

Does it unlock with the key (foreign concept) when it won't work via remote? I suspect it should, but the key sends a signal to the body ECU, which I think is to unlock the other doors. Does the key turn hard, or about the same. Try it when its working, and when its not, may give a hint to the lube issue.

 

I'm not sure I'd suspect an electrical or computer problem going to the motors. The drivers door is on its own output from the body ECU, the passenger front, and both rear doors are all on a separate single output. The motors don't share a connector after leaving the body ECU.

If its repeatable, you could tear the door apart and see if the signal is going to the motor.

Does it unlock with the key (foreign concept) when it won't work via remote? I suspect it should, but the key sends a signal to the body ECU, which I think is to unlock the other doors. Does the key turn hard, or about the same. Try it when its working, and when its not, may give a hint to the lube issue.

Good point. I'll try it with a key the next time it wont respond to my remote.
The main reason I was thinking it was the computer is cause it keeps switching between the front and back door on the drivers side... but after what you said about the single output, im not sure what to think. :headbang:

One more thing I can say to expand on the topic, if It wont lock via the remote and I go back and forth hitting the lock/unlock button on the remote, it seems to work about the 4th or 5th time of locking/unlocking. So it does act like it binding up or stuck... like the little button you flip inside just doesnt want to flip into position easily.

If anyone else has experienced this (or something similar) please chime in before I spend mucho dinero at the dealer.

 

Phew, for a minute there I thought you were going to say you were locked in your truck.

Don't laugh...yet. My mother-in-law bought a new '07 Highlander a couple of years ago, her first toyota. Anyway, get this call one day from her while her car alarm is going off, "Help, I'm locked in my car and the alarm's going off!" :lol: She was so flustered from having the alarm going off while in the vehicle that she didn't realize you could just unlock it by the door handle.

Reminded me of the Blonde-Star commercial:

"Blonde-Star, how may I help you?"

"Uh yeah, I've locked my keys out of the car and I'm locked in..."

Funniest commercial I've ever heard!

 

Phew, for a minute there I thought you were going to say you were locked in your truck.

Don't laugh...yet. My mother-in-law bought a new '07 Highlander a couple of years ago, her first toyota. Anyway, get this call one day from her while her car alarm is going off, "Help, I'm locked in my car and the alarm's going off!" :lol: She was so flustered from having the alarm going off while in the vehicle that she didn't realize you could just unlock it by the door handle.

Reminded me of the Blonde-Star commercial:

"Blonde-Star, how may I help you?"

"Uh yeah, I've locked my keys out of the car and I'm locked in..."

Funniest commercial I've ever heard!

Sounds funny. I've never seen that commercial before.

 

Here you go:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qrt2q6Mpeyc

 

i just started having the same problem, had an 04 matrix and it did the same thing for a while, never figured out what was wrong, the problem just went away, you ever figure out what the deal is?

 

I'm having this same problem but only with my front driver's side door, all other locks are working. The door can be locked/unlocked with the key but what a PITA since I'm used to using the remote. In my case, it doesn't matter if I use the remote or the switch, the lock will only work maybe once every week or so and the truck is my daily driver.

I'm going to take the door panel off first before I go spending any money. I'm hoping it's just a loose wire and not the $200+ actuator. Here are instructions for removing the door panel - http://www.starmanage.com/installation/speakers/index.html.

 

my problem is also with the front driver side door, and my matrix had the same door locks and did the same thing with the driver side door, it randomly starts working again then stops working, i've never figured it out, seems to be a problem with these particular locks

 

Thanks for all the replies... keep em coming.

I am still having the problem. It has mostly been with the back door so I havent been able to try out the key in the door option.

I did call the dealer today and they can't help unless i bring it to them while it is not working. Good luck on that since it is intermitent. I'll use Nafterclifen's link to remove the door panel this weekend and take a peek. Im thinking (at this point) that i must be a loose wire somewhere. Almost like it comes loose over a bump when i drive it, then as i drive again it bumps back into place so it works again.

We'll see what the weekend brings (hopefully i dont get fed up enough to just trade it on a tundra or something... lol )

Thanks again!

 

i had a problem with my passenger door lock not working.

the dealer wanted $300+ for a new actuator (the lock and everything is made into it) so I decided to take the old one out and go to a salvage yard......

after puling it out of the truck and reattaching the wires, it would work fine. I think that the pin that comes from the exterior door key lock was binding it up. I cleaned everything and put it back together and now it's fine. been working for 3 months now with no problems......

 

There are also a couple of connectors in the kick panel (of the fronts anyway) that feeds into the door. One of them has the door lock wires. Pull the kick and it's the one that has green/black (unlock) and violet (lock) wires among others.

 

I'm having the same problem but only with the same door. The rear right (double cab) door lock works only occassionally with the keyless.

 

To All With Aftermarket Alarms

I had this problem. I have a Viper Remote Start 7900 installed since a couple months after I bought my truck. My truck was about 2 1/2 years old when I started to notice a failing Passenger door lock actuator. And yes, they're VERY expensive. I called a buddy who is the parts manager at one of the local dealers and he mentioned the alarm was partially to blame... My response was "BS". That's the first thing stealerships do, is blame aftermarket equipment for stuff that fails.

Anyway, the door lock pulse setting is VERY important to those that are running aftermarket alarms. I had mine set to a .8 sec pulse which is the default on the Viper alarms. I even called DEI and they mentioned that the Toyota actuators are a little finicky and the alarm needs to be set to the .4 second pulse. So, I ended up dropping 250 (over the 36K mi warranty or my buddy would have claimed a defective actuator and fixed it for free) for a new door lock actuator and setting the pulse to .4 and I have not had a problem since. I replaced the actuator myself in 20 minutes. I know this is a long post but I hope it helps.

Cheers

 

Power door lock issues

I have a 2005 Toyota Tacoma access cab. Several years ago I sound dampened the interior. A few months later my driver's side automatic door lock stopped working with the key fab & interior switch. The dealer said that the actuator had went (wanted ~$400); I'm guessing it may be due to some of the sound dampening causing added pressure & wearing out the actuator prematurely, although I haven't taken the door apart to check.
Question: the passenger side is now doing the same thing w/ one exception. The passenger door lock will not work using the key. The key will insert but will not turn. Could this be due to the actuator or something different?

 

Probably different. Seems like there is some type of slop in the system which allows the key to turn without the actuator moving. I looked at the drawings once earlier when this thread first came up.

 

Sorry, but I can't relate to the blower issue but I can help with the power lock issue.

I had the same problem myself and it ended up being the "actuator motor" on the driver's door. It's a little bit of a hassle to pull it out of the door but it is a pretty easy fix once you got it out. Toyota was trying to charge me over $300 dollars to fix the problem, the actual fix only cost around 7 bucks though.

I have a 2011 Tacoma, this is the youtube video that helped me out:

As far as the part, I purchased it from amazon (20mm flat D shaft, Long D Spindle). Part number (FC-280PC-22125). I bought a 4 pack but they sell them separate on amazon and eBay if you just want one. Just make sure to purchase the correct actuator shaft.

4 Pack - 20mm D Flat Shaft Central Door Lock Actuator Motor FC-280PC-22125, Long D Spindle, Power Locking Repair Engine
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXS38R9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hope This helps and GOOD LUCK!