Possibly bad power steering pump. Hate to ask to obvious question, but do you have plenty of power steering fluid in the reservoir?

 

Fluid is full. No leaks. Strange how it just happened after sitting for two months.

 

Well first thing is that's not how to change the fluid, check out the DIY sticky for how to change the fluid. Also not sure how you used "Toyota fluid" for that?
Manual just calls for dexron III transmission fluid for power steering fluid

But that said, it the belt slipping or is the pully slipping on the pump shaft?
Other than that I think you have a bad pump?

 

Toyota "compliant" fluid. I will check the DIY out.

 

What's Toyota compliant fluid? Is that like the fluids available from Prestone

 

Fluid that says you can use it in my Toyota. Why is this being questioned?. Can we focus on problem

 

Because the problem might be you are using the wrong fluid

 

Its not, give me some credit. Not a nubee to vehicle maintenance. And changing fluid via turkey baster/dilution method may not be correct, its utilized by many for many vehicles for many years. Not the most precise, but it works.

 

Okay. The power steering pump pumps that fluid for the power steering to work so if you are adamant that the fluid is correct, at the right level, and the pulley is spinning then I would suspect a bad pump. We're not trying to give you a hard time, just because something says Toyota compliant doesn't mean much. You never said what type of fluid so whatever Toyota-compliant fluid you have doesn't mean you can just pour it into every orifice of a Toyota. We're checking that you didn't use regular power steering fluid that is Toyota compliant because this car's power steering doesn't use that type of fluid.

And there is nothing wrong with the turkey blaster method if it works.

 

I did the turkey baster method and it worked partially (I got tired and then pulled the Efi fuse out) I used the fluid specd on the top of the resovoir which is dex 3. Steering felt better. The only reason I asked is cause lots of chains sell Toyota approved power steering fluid, and on the bottle it specifically mentions Toyota. However in our manuals nd on the car it specifically states Dex 3. If the fluid isnt specd probably the pump can't throw up weird symptoms.

Anyways, lets assume the fluid is the issue. When did you change the fluid last (how many miles since), what's the current color of the fluid?

If the fluid seems very close to the fluid that you replaced it with it's probably not the fluid. In addition you had a couple hundred miles or more with said fluid, and no problem then your again fluid can be ruled out. Then I would look mechanical issues with the rack as something or your just not use to the rack feel of the car since you haven't used it for 2 months.

Again easy diagnosis first then go onto the hard stuff

 

could be the pump... could also be the rack.
if the belt was slipping you'd hear that bizzach squeel lol
i would:
1. flush the system again for air locks
2. wreckers power steering pump

 

I would recommend a full flush. I recently did this on my Corolla with 175K, using the method prescribed on the forums where the vehicle is jacked up, and the wheel is turned lock-to-lock while exchanging the fluid. Halfway thru the process, the steering wheel became much easier to turn, indicating that the pump was starved for fresh fluid.

I used Valvoline Synthetic Maxlife, and after a cross-country drive, steering is just like new.

 

Belt and fluid replaced August 2012. Fluid has a little gray color to it.

 

On a side note, hydraulic fluids such as power steering fluids are generally backwards compatible, ie dex 3 will work in dex 2. Just saying. And some cars have very specific fluids. Some.
Owners manual says dex 2 or dex 3 atf. Page 217, 2002 owners manual.

 

Here's a list of items to check from the repair manual for hard steering.

1) Tires (Improperly inflated)
2) Power steering fluid (Low)
3) Drive Belt (Loose)
4) Front Wheel Alignment (Incorrect)
5) Steering system joints (Worn)
6) Suspension arm ball joints (Worn)
7) Steering column (Binding)
8) Power steering vane pump
9) Power steering gear

 

Tires, 35 psi. Fluid Full hot. Drive belt new as well as 3 year old belt tensioner, ALignment done in AUgust after installing new cv joints/half shafts (whatever you want to call them today). Shocks new, cars suspension looks really good. No cracks in rubber on control arms, and I have new sway bar rubber int here too. Other than that...
Been running for a few days, and weather has warmed up from low 20's to mid 50's. No more heavy feeling at low rpm, mph. May have been just needed temperature ad miles to get past morning sickness similar to my Vettes power steering used to do.

 

Good to know. You still live in HNL?

 

Nope, just moved here a while ago; Never updated profile.

 

Just wondering thanks

 

Cold weather can do this. Mine does that sometimes and it's a combination of slight belt slipping from humidity/condensation and cold power steering fluid. It goes away pretty quickly anyway.

If you ever decide to do a full flush, all you need is a clear hose the same size as the return hose, some sort of container to catch the old fluid, a jack and jack stands.

- Jack the front wheels up. (Easier to turn the steering wheel from lock-to-lock this way)
- Remove the clamp on the return rubber hose (smaller upper one) where it meets the metal one and just turn the rubber hose so it's pointing up and not pissing fluid everywhere.
- Attach the clear hose on the return metal hose that's exposed and put the other end in the container you have.
- Turn the steering lock-to-lock and watch the level in the reservoir so it doesn't run out. Add new power steering fluid and repeat until what comes out is clear. (Don't fill it flush to top or it will come out by the rubber hose pointing up)

I don't need to mention that it's with engine OFF, otherwise you'll end up with a mess on your hands because a power steering pump actually pumps a lot more than you might think. You don't really need a clear hose to do it, but I prefer it as you can see the fluid getting out and tell if it's clear or not. It's a one man operation and it's how I always done it at work.

 

I used the method above, and it's amazing how easy the fluid comes out when turning the wheel with the engine off. After flushing, the steering was much easier than before (first flush after 175K miles).