Pictures of the aftermarket rack and pump kits. I need the parts circled in red, not pictured is the suction and pressure line o-rings.

Rack and pinion kit, no bearings and no suction/pressure o-rings. The 4 small o-rings all look like the same size so that's why I'm thinking those are the 4 'turn pressure' tube o-rings.

Pump kit, need the internal large and medium o-rings.

 

I bought the Toyota kits (04446-, for the pump and 04445A for the rack) and they came with everything needed. The rack kit should cost you no more than $100 via the online dealers, and the pump kit $40. So, there is no reason to try and scrounge up all of those component parts individually, from different sources.

To rebuild the pump is super easy and requires no special tools other than a snap ring plier and a digital caliper to check parts with. But to rebuild the rack you will need this video, and will have to make some of your own tools, but he shows how:

and here are my notes from rebuilding a rare SE rack (10% quicker ratio, used only '93~'94), posts #51~53, 71,72, 74 & 79:

Gen3 Restoration Thread

I didn't start out intending to own a Camry for this long. But when I bought this 1993 Camry SE V6 (3VZ-FE) 5MT, in October of 1992, it seemed to be good enough for my needs. It handled like a pig when new, but finally I found a shop which specialized in race cars and they set up the alignment...

www.toyotanation.com

Note that on disassembly, I found deep wear in the part 44211 in your 1st attached image, where the 4 teflon rings go. I found that wear in each rack I disassembled, to varying degrees. Rather than risk it I ended up buying a new one (amazingly, Toyota still sells that control valve housing). Unfortunately, that part does cost $140, but if you want to make sure your rebuilt rack won't leak its the best way. I bet the rebuilt aftermarket racks just reuse that part and cross their fingers they won't leak too quickly (at least not until the 90 day warranty is past).

When completed, both my pump and rack are as new. Note that except for that wear on the 44211, every other part measured to factory specs shown in the repair manual.

 

I've watched that video quite a few times lol. Can you confirm that the 2 tools he makes out of 8mm flat bar is the same for this rack? What do you think of using the luggage scale for preload?

I have been watching your gen3 restoration thread for awhile now and have refered to the rebuild section. Quite an amazing job you're doing. I'm rebuilding mine but not to that degree, I just want a fully safe and functioning vehicle. I need to do my rear trailing arm bushings and front non adjustable lateral arm, exhaust, this rack/pump rebuild, fuel pump and sender and doing most of the seals and gaskets I can get to before winter hits.

For the rack kit, 04455A is just for the rack housing isn't it? 04455 is the control valve housing and is a seperate kit? So both kits needed for a full rebuild as well as the 44221 housing? In CAD it's like $289 + shipping just for the housing and $333.33 for 04455 and 04455A; see here. I'm wondering if a machine shop couldn't sleeve the grooved bore and machine it down for cheaper? How bad are those grooves you found?

Thanks for all the advice and info it is greatly appreciated.

 

The 04455A kit included everything (in that exploded view diagram, its box is around the other, smaller kit 04455, indicating that is included): bearings, seals, guide bushing, teflon rings, lock nut, gasket, large o-rings for the rack and the small o-rings for the pipes.

I am sure the 8mm flat bar tool will work for every rack from Camry to Sienna to RX (that is a mid 2000's RX rack he's rebuilding in that video), it is amazing how standardized Toyota is with their parts, sometimes.

Using a luggage scale for confirming the preload certainly will work, but it will be harder to use (measure the length of your lever arm and do the math to convert the load to torque). It will work if you cannot borrow a 1/4" drive, 0~15inlbs torque wrench.

Try shopping around online for better deals on the OEM kits, the exchange rate is only 0.77, though I am not sure how much tax and postage adds on top of that.

Unfortunately, a machine shop, though they could sleeve the valve housing, might have difficulty making the valve orifice holes (there are carefully positioned holes around its perimeter for the various valve actions to take place while turning the steering wheel).

One rack I tore down had DEEP grooves at each teflon ring's location. Another rack had much shallower grooves, more like colored lines you could just barely feel with a fingernail. It is difficult to know how many miles was on each of these used ones, as they tend to get replaced at 100~120k mile intervals, once they start leaking. So, you can't use the odometer of the car it came out of to say.

 

Awesome, this is the info I needed. I'm going to talk to a machine shop and see if that is something they can handle, if not I'll buy a new housing.
I'm going to shop around for the kit and housing, if yours was 140 USD than that would be cheaper with shipping and customs than it would be to order it from the Canadian online Toyota market.

Thanks for the advice and info, I absolutely love this forum.

EDIT: I washed the suction line from reservoir to pump and it is showing signs of oil on outside again. I think it's the clamps on the lines just getting weak over time. I can't see a leak and it took it a good 2-3 weeks to show oil on the outside of the hose near the reservoir, not much but enough to show a small seep somewhere.

 

Does anyone know if the mounting bushing that fits into the collar/clamp with the rubber "grommet" is the same size as the other bushing? Toyota only lists 1 bushing and doesn't show a bushing for the other mounting hole.

Collar and grommet in blue, bushing circled in red with arrows to mounting holes.

I'm looking at polyurethane bushing kits but I see they all mostly come with the outside grommet and the 1 bushing.

 

as you can see in the second photo in your post, they are quite differently shaped

I bought a set just like in your photo, but ended up using a new OEM one for the clamp bracket because the aftermarket one would have required me to modify the clamp in a way that seemed like it would reduce the clamping force. I did use the tube one from the aftermarket kit, under the pinion, and just threw away the unused aftermarket clamp one.