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Question of the week: What type of motor oil do you use?

6.8K views 32 replies 26 participants last post by  2005 es330  
#1 ·
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These days, there's an endless array of choices when it comes to motor oil. Some vehicle owners swear by a certain brand or type of motor oil, while others go for whatever's on sale in the correct viscosity.

What about you—do you stick to a certain brand or type (e.g., synthetic, high-mileage, etc.) of motor oil?
 
#2 ·
Toyota 0w16
OEM filters.

I used Mobil-1 when I had cars that took 5w30, 5w20, and 0w20.
I'd wait until it went on sale at Costco and buy a few 6-packs when I used 5w30, but they didn't carry the 0w- grades so I'd just buy from Walmart.
Likewise, I'd wait for it to go on sale and stock up. I don't bounce around between brands.
 
#3 ·
I use whatever is on sale, usually the NAPA store brand, except in stuff with a wet clutch, for that I use Rotella T4.

I do have one "sacred cow" kind of belief: my Dad always told me Penzoil causes sludge issues. Maybe that used to be true, maybe it still is, maybe it never was, I don't know, but I won't touch the stuff.
 
#4 ·
I was told the same thing by the old-timers when I worked at Pep Boys in the early 80s.
I suspect that these were "old mechanic's tales" promoted by those to sold or preferred Texas products, as the same was said about Quaker State.
The reasoning given was paraffin content.
Maybe some truth to it in the middle part of the century, maybe not.
 
#9 ·
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#12 ·
05 Highlander 3.3L 185K, I use Penzoil Platinum high mileage 10-30, I experience less clicking, less burnoff between oil changes (6K) usually I don't have to add any between changes. I use toyota filters bought off Amazon by the 10 pack about $5 ea. I have had the valve covers off and zero sludge just a normal film
 
#13 ·
For my Toyota Sienna I will only use Toyota oil and OEM filters in it. That's my plan anyway. I also will get it changed every 5,000 miles. For my Lexus RX330 I will use a good GF-6 or SN Plus spec oil or the latest and greatest. Probably will go with a "high mileage" oil. I will also stick to the 5,000 mile schedule. Did you know that Amazon Basics oil is rated SN Plus? I have no brand loyalty for oil. I think as long as you change it regularly and use good oil you are good to go.
 
#14 ·
I used to use Mobil 1 5w-20 (2007 Corolla and 2009 Corolla) and 0w-20 (2015 Corolla) ; however, since Costco introduced the Kirkland brand, I tried that on older corolla and it works fine. As other has stated, I bought the oil when they are on sale and stock up for 1 extra oil changed. For the older corolla with 190k, I don't think it makes any difference because I changed it every 5k.
 
#15 ·
I use Mobil 1 0W-40 exclusively in all my vehicles. The 0W provides exceptional cold weather and cold start protection while the "40" provides exceptional protection at normal operating temperatures.

Walmart sells it in 5 qt jugs and BJs sells it in a box that has 6 - one qt bottles.

I sold my 2004 Sienna two years ago, it had 190,000 miles on it and this was the only oil I used. The new buyer brought it to a mechanic and the mech said the engine ran like a new engine.
 
#16 ·
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These days, there's an endless array of choices when it comes to motor oil. Some vehicle owners swear by a certain brand or type of motor oil, while others go for whatever's on sale in the correct viscosity.

What about you—do you stick to a certain brand or type (e.g., synthetic, high-mileage, etc.) of motor oil?
I use only "synthetic" (Group III base stock) oil that meets the latest API and ILSAC standards and tests well against even the most expensive true synthetics (Group IV or V base stock) like Amsoil and Redline, AND that is reasonably priced so that I don't feel the need to extend my oil change intervals beyond what is best for average car owners like me (6 months or 5,000 miles): Walmart's Super Tech or Costco's Kirkland in 0W-20 or 5W-30.
 
#18 ·
Bought new and still only daily driver for 36 years and 480,500 miles, a 1986 Toyota Truck 2WD 22RE 5-speed. Used Castrol GTX 10W-40 on 5000 mile oil change intervals. Yea, that worthless POS Dino oil. Starts 1st crank, idles smoothly, and burns less 1/2 quart between oil changes. Forget the brand as all oils are so good now and just make sure you change the oil on schedule.
 
#32 ·
I would suggest upgrading to Amazon basics full synthetic over valvoline, it is far superior to valvoline in performance and is pretty inexpensive. Dang close to Mobile 1 quality though mobile one is still superior. I have never used the Napa stuff.
 
#22 ·
I use Castrol 10W 30 conventional. I have a 2005 V6 4runner which runs and starts like pronto and new.

I tried a synthetic ten years ago and I got drips all over the garage floor, so I drained the synthetic and switched to conventional the same day.
No leaks with conventional 10-30 - which is what came from Japan in my 2005 4runner.

Now with 210,000 miles. I change it every 5000 miles.

Synthetic is overrated IMO. I had much noise in the engine with synthetic. While the viscosity on the bottle said 10-30, it didn't act like 10W 30 conventional. It leaked past my seals.

Modern engines are made with better seals and you can use synthetic, but a 2005 V6 runner will sprout leaks.
 
#25 ·
Whatever coirrect grade that is on sale, and stock-up as best I can; Costco mentality.

5w-30, all kinds of brands: Pennzsoil, Quaker State, Shell Rotella, Castrol. Some of these "free" after MIR, to <$1/qt.

0W-16, Castrol Edge, clearance from Auto zone months back at $2/quart. Most expensive oil ever purchased.
 
#28 ·
The name of the forum I'm thinking about is "Joeyistheoilguy", but Joey is not the real name.
No you’re wrong. Todd is his real name 😂
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