Hi Toyata owner

Before you start the engine , turn the key on and make sure the dash lights stay on for 10 seconds before starting the engine. What we are doing is priming the fuel pump. See is this helps. Does the starting problem only happen with the vehicle has not be starting for four to five hours. Dennis

 

I have tried turning the key so that all the lights are on for at least 10 seconds...even longer. The car still takes a long time to start. Yes, it only takes a long time to start after its been sitting a long time. If I start it shortly after it has been running, it turns right over.

 

Fuel pumps have different kinds of check valves in them to keep gas from draining back into the tank.
Fuel lines have pressure in them even when not running so where is it going...my guess back into the tank.
Pressure test is 2 part not running and running this is the test you need first. This should have been 1st thing to check so maybe you need to find new repair person?

 

The 2007 Rav4 does not have a check valve in its system. At least my research online as well as the Toyota dealers have said that. Matter of understanding, the only thing in the fuel delivery system for the 2007 RAV4 is a fuel filter built into the fuel pump assembly (inside the tank) and the fuel pressure regulator...that's it. Everyone seems to say that the regulator would be obvious if by turning the key to start (all the lights on) for 10 seconds before turning it over results in a quick turnover. However, it does not. The dealer tells me that if I have them diagnose it, they will not likely find the problem conclusively and recommend waiting for it to get worse...if it does. So does any of that allow you to conclude differently?

 

"fuel pressure regulator" or something else has something in it to keep fuel pressure in the line. If not anytime you let it set for a day and crank it it would take time to bring fuel all the way from tank.
When you turn your key for 10 seconds all it can do is pressurize system not pump gas all the way to injectors.
I still think something is letting gas drain back,sorry to say I do not know exactly what.
Ask dealer why they or you cannot do a pressure test before starting after it has set.Testing fuel pressure gauges are fairly cheap and easy to hook up. There should be 2 readings not running and running.Dealer should know what they are,like 10lbs not and 45lbs when running. Numbers could be way off they are just example.
If you read on changing fuel filter on most all cars and I know 4.1 RAV4s you have to relieve pressure some how,one way is to start it up and take out fuse for fuel pump and let it run till it dies. If you do not do this fuel will spray ALL over when you take filter off.

 

Fuel Pump fuse and relay might have weakened.

 

check the spark plugs gaps?

 

I've never heard of a fuel pump fuse and relay 'weakening' but I have to believe that if it were a problem, then the vehicle would have running issues beyond just starting, but it doesn't. The plugs gaps are fine. I'm wondering at this point if it makes sense to spring for the 100 bucks and replace the fuel pressure regulator and see if that doesn't cure the problem. If the dealer is able to diagnose it, it'll probably cost that much for the diagnosis, which I figure at this point can only be the pressure regulator, or something in the fuel pump assembly. Anyone feeling more confident about it than I. I'm leaning toward the regulator.

 

I would try to go to a local shop and ask them if they would stop by your house and do a pressure test after it has been setting on there way to work,they could look to see what size wrench they needed and take gauge home with them it would not take 10 minutes.
You may have to try more than one but it might be worth a try.

 

It's the battery, Johnny. Have it load tested, it will probably fail. My 2008 began taking longer to start after only 2 years. Had the dealer load test the battery, it failed, and they replaced it under warranty. Your RAV4 uses a lot of current and requires a strong battery. The electric power steering, the electric 4WD clutch, the ABS system, they all consume a lot of power. If the battery is weak, the starter may be pulling the voltage so low the ECM can't function properly.

 

Did you ever get this figured out? I'm having the same issue with my 2003! Thanks

 

[QUOTE = "johnny6 ، النشر: 3763383 ، العضو: 263804"]
بدأ برنامجي 2007 Rav4 في البداية منذ حوالي شهرين. لذلك ، قد يستغرق الأمر من 5 إلى 7 ثوانٍ للبدء ، عندما استغرق الأمر بالكاد طوال حياته السابقة. قصة قصيرة طويلة ، ليست البطارية ، وليس الوقود ، لا أعتقد أن منظم ضغط الوقود لأن تشغيل المفتاح لمدة 7 ثوانٍ قبل البدء لا يجعل بدء التشغيل أسرع. كل شيء يعمل بشكل جيد على السيارة بمجرد أن تبدأ. الخمول هو جيد ، والاستجابة أمر طبيعي في جميع السرعات. لا أحد يستطيع مساعدتي في معرفة هذا الأمر. أي خبراء RAV4 حقيقي هناك واجهت هذا من قبل؟
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I have same problem in my car Rav4 2007
So i change fuel pump and filter
Fuel regulator in side fuel tank
EVAP sensor

So think to change fuel pressure

 

I see a lot of people don't know most RAV4s, including my 2008 and this 2007, don't work like most cars that activate the fuel pump by just turning the key until all the lights come on. You have to "bump" the engine for a single turn or less and then you can hear the fuel pump in the tank come on for 3 to 4 seconds before turning off. I have to do this once or twice before cranking or else it takes about 4 seconds to crank. I've replaced the "secret" filter ($36) most people don't know about that houses the pump. Most people think the strainer at the bottom is the "filter". I also replaced the "check valve" in the side of the pump assembly ($20) and still no luck. Next is the fuel pump and strainer and if that doesn't work then fuel injectors (I'll get the rebuilt Densos for $50 each, not the fake denso's that are $35 for 4 on Amazon & ebay). Actual new densos are $150 each. I tried checking fuel pressure with a gauge, but it drops just as quick on my other RAV4 that cranks fine. I might be doing something wrong because it seems like fuel pressure should stay high if everything's fine. I guess I didn't need a gauge to know pressure doesn't stay high for long because fuel squirts out when I take out an injector only if it had been running very recently. There's also the "pressure regulator" or "pressure variation dampener" on the fuel rail that holds the injectors but I don't know how to check it and it's costly. I've also inspected the choke while cranking with an endoscope and it seems to open a little for a second when trying to start and then close where my other RAV4 stays shut. That might be the problem which is what I'm testing today. I'm duct taping the inlet after the air filter to block air to see if that would help as a check on the choke operation. No difference 1st time, but 2nd time seemed better. You have to stop absolutely all air. I've checked the engine cylinder pressures too and they're fine. I also cleaned the mass airflow sensor, and swapped it with my other RAV4 which made no difference. They say it's usually the filter, pump, or the check valve. The check valve is often called regulator, but that's the purpose of the thing on the Fuel rail that needs a special tool to remove. Spark plugs are new but I later noticed the old iridium plugs with 170k miles on them look good as new after cleaning and checking the gap (1.1 mm ... hard to find because it's supposed to be a forever gap that you aren't supposed to need to regap). I also temporarily replaced the ignition coils using those from my other RAV4 (it's 2010 with a different engine so they stuck out high but still worked fine and didn't change the problem). I've done a lot without replacing the pump, but OEM is costly and otherwise seems to work fine. (there are cheap pumps but I don't trust them). BTW, I cleaned the PCV valve which was stuck open and idling is a LOT more quiet and smooth. That hose was so brittle it broke and had to replace it. Too bad I can't reach the PCV on the 2010 RAV4.

 

I have a 07 Toyota Rav 4 I have been doing a lot of the work my self and supervision of a few ppl I brought it back from a collision bent the frame straight w a pulley to place a new radiator in so it would stop over heating boom got it to run smooth for 6 months up until the other day I've recently changed fuel pump w a universal fuel pump and a actual assembly fuel pump got gas new struts new wheel in bearing new sway bar links new battery idk what to last time this happened it was the fuel pump we thought it was because it was a cheap universal one now we've bought the hole assembly it crabks no start please help

 

I have an 07 2.4L RAV4 with the same issue of longer and longer crank needed to start. Occasionally idle gets rough and drops close to 550ish rpm. I’ve also noticed some lagging on acceleration as of recently. I have been leaning towards replacing fuel pressure regulator inside the pump (might aswell do the pump?) but at 70 for the Delphi regulator and 240 for the Delphi pump, I’m hesitant to do so before confirming the issue with information online. New spark plugs, battery, alternator, and starter. Coils have been replaced semi recently. Cleaned MAF sensor and throttle body. No change on extended start time or occasional rough idle.

 

What do you mean by "bump the engine"? Popping the clutch?